Day Four – Earliest Childhood Memory

Day Four – Earliest Childhood Memory

It is believed that people’s earliest memories can often be traced back to age 2.5 [1].  According to David Copeland, Ph.D., “It might be difficult to pinpoint the one true ‘earliest memory’ for anyone.” Copeland also stated that early memories—even those reconstructed from external sources beyond what’s in our minds—can also play an important role in constructing the overall narrative of your life.  “For example, whether someone truly remembers the experience of falling off of a tricycle at age 3 or they learn about it from family members’ stories or from seeing pictures, it might not matter—as long as the event actually happened, it can be a part of one’s life narrative.”

My first birthday

Sitting here thinking about childhood memories, I recall photos from my first birthday which I have no recollection of.  I see photos of early holidays…my dad carrying me down the steps on Christmas morning…the table set for Easter dinner…playing in the snow and building “Fort Marvin” with my Aunts Pam and Jill…playing with them in a blow-up kiddie pool and Pam had a broken arm.

 

If  2.5 is the age when we may be able to recall memories then maybe the memory of looking at my baby brother in his bassinet is real, or it could be that I remember the photo of me looking at him.  Playing these photos and memories over in my mind, I decided I am going to write about a different memory…not my earliest, but one when I was eight years old.  I am choosing this one because it is one of my most vivid memories.  I am certain there are no photos to remind me of the event, yet I can picture it, smell it, and describe it as if it was yesterday.

I was fortunate in my childhood to have 2 sets of grandparents and 2 great-grandmothers.  One great-grandmother we called jet-grandma because she traveled, and we often had to take her to the airport to catch a plane.  Later in her life, my grandma Gehrlein also traveled.  She would take me with her on Anderson Tour bus excursions and she traveled twice to the “Holy Land”, including Gaza.  I’m certain back in Warren, Ohio, in boxes yet unpacked, I still have the beads made of olive wood that she brought me.  With two traveling grandmas, maybe the apple doesn’t fall too far.

Wednesday morning, December 30, 1970.  I was eight years old.  My brother and I were normally only allowed to eat on the floor in front of the television for Saturday morning cartoons.  All other meals were eaten at the dining room table.  That table now lives in my condo in Warren.  I’m not sure if it was because it was Christmas break or because of the situation that was evolving that we were eating breakfast in front of the TV.  I can picture our living room with the knotty pine paneling, the floor-model television, an avocado green stereo console, a large armchair, the couch behind us, a rocking chair beside us, and the giant live Christmas tree between the living room and dining room in front of the wall clock that I still have.  I was eating a bowl of Gerber’s baby food oatmeal.  I loved that stuff and ate it up into my teens. My brother, I am sure was eating some sugar-coated cereal like Captain Crunch.

My grandpa Gehrlein was in the hospital.  He had heart issues and also suffered from diabetes.  We had visited him on Christmas day at the hospital.  He had given me the first of my Madame Alexander Little Women Dolls. Our parents had been to the hospital that morning.  Our Aunt Dorothy, who lived with us, was home taking care of me and Mark.  When my parents came home, I remember getting up and running to my dad.  He picked me up.  He was wearing a black fisherman knit sweater, he rarely wore a coat, and I can still smell his “Old Spice” aftershave.  I could see that my mother was or had been crying.  That’s the moment we learned that our grandfather (my mother’s father) had died.

I don’t remember anything else about that day or the following days.  We had his funeral on January 1, 1971.  The only thing I recollect about that is that was the first time I remember having to deal with death.

I don’t know why that is such a vivid memory except,  according to Theresa L. White, Ph.D., “People often say that the sense of smell conjures up memories so well that they feel as if they were experiencing the event again,”  It is believed that memories of odors can be a backdrop to an emotional state.  To this day, I only need to see an advertisement for or a display of Old Spice, and I can recall how it smells and a memory of my dad.

My life is filled with memories, happy and sad, the stories of my life.  The older I get, the more I travel making memories along the way…the more I realize what a gift they are.  As Chief Seattle said, “Take only memories, leave only footprints.”

[1] Peterson C. What is your earliest memory? It depends. Memory. 2021;29(6):811-822. doi:10.1080/09658211.2021.1918174

Day Three – A Favorite Quote

Day Three – A Favorite Quote

The dictionary tells us that the adjective favorite means preferred above all others of the same kind.

As a kid, my favorite color was purple which I paired with Kelly green walls.  A bit psychedelic, but I did have two hippie chick aunts I looked up to. Currently, my favorite color is green…no, not Kelly green, but a more subtle sage.  When I saw today’s blog prompt, I thought, how can I pick a favorite?  It also made me think about how many times during my travels I am asked about my “favorites”.  What’s your favorite country?  What’s your favorite city?  What’s your favorite movie?  What’s your favorite book?  What’s your favorite song?  You get the idea and I get that it’s all part of the exercise of getting to know people.  I’m guilty of this myself.  When I have a new student or group of students it’s all part of the “get-to-know-you” routine.  However, I  have discovered instead of asking, “What’s your favorite movie?”, I get a much better response by saying, “Tell me about one of your favorite movies”, for instance.  This seems to alleviate the distress of having to choose one thing.  In the past, asking for a favorite anything usually got the response, “It depends”.  I understand that it can depend on a lot of things and admit it, favorites change.

So, back on topic.  On my phone, in my photo gallery,  I keep a plethora of quotes.  I keep them in albums based on the subject.  For example, I have albums called “Dream Believe”, “Life”, “Friendship”, “Notes to Self”, and “Wanderlust”.  I guess you could say I collect quotes because I also have pages in my journals (I keep multiples of those too) dedicated to quotes.

I have tossed around several great quotes that I like.  Mother Theresa, “ I alone cannot change the world, but I can cast a stone across the water to create many ripples.”  Albert Einstein, “The one who follows the crowd will usually go no further than the crowd.  Those who walk alone are likely to find themselves in places no one has ever been before.”  S.M. Klees, “There’s a quiet comfort in knowing I have not yet crossed paths with all the people who will bring magic into my life.”, and Terry Pratchett, “Why do you go away? So that you can come back, so that you can see the place you came from with new eyes and extra colors and the people there see you differently, too.  Coming back to where you started is not the same as never leaving.”

Ultimately, the quote I chose, I keep in an album called “Me”.  It is a quote from Zelda Fitzgerald.  “She quietly expected great things to happen to her.  No doubt that’s one of the reasons why they did.”  This quote reminds me that attitude is important.  It also reminds me of my dad and something he always said to us.  If I was struggling to do something, if I complained about being too hot or too cold, if something hurt, etc, I remember him saying, “Mind over matter”.  He told us that we could do anything if we just put our minds to it.  I remember being on the gymnastics team in Junior High School.  I was struggling with a move on the uneven bars.  He told me to start visualizing and doing it successfully.  I would fall asleep thinking about nothing else.  Now, I didn’t wake up the next day and master the move, but it wasn’t long before I nailed it.  I think this is similar to what Zelda is saying.  Many people think about the what-ifs and the worst things that can happen.  I choose to think about the great or at least good things that can happen.

I recently re-read a book, “The Café on the Edge of the World”, by John Strelecky.  One of the key messages in the book states, “People who have found their purpose, magically attract happiness.”   You know, that feeling of bliss when things just fall into place.  When you go with the flow and do what you enjoy, the world can seem full of happy coincidences. But are those really just coincidences? Or is there some other magical force at work? Is it mind over matter?  Did you make it happen?  When you do something that fulfills you, your whole aura changes. Your eyes light up just talking about it.  Your energy is so contagious that other people are happy to support you.  Again, I think this is what Zelda was talking about and why I chose it as my quote.  In the end, being raised by parents who always told you that you, yourself had the power to be great, make great things happen, and do whatever you wanted in life, not always following society’s norms certainly molded me into the person I am today.  My advice, expect great things!  No, everything won’t always be great, because face it, sometimes life is shit. But more times than not, things will work out!

Blog Challenge Day Two – Twenty Facts About Me

Blog Challenge Day Two – Twenty Facts About Me

Blog writing challenge day two – Twenty facts about me.  Day two and it’s a tough one.  Most people, in my opinion, don’t like to talk about themselves for fear of being judged, they don’t like bragging, they don’t think their life is interesting, or they are afraid of exposing their weaknesses.

One thing I have learned in the last ten years of basically solo travel is that if you want to make connections, meet people, and immerse yourself in the local scene you need to talk about yourself.  One of my favorite travel movies is “A Map For Saturday”. In the movie, most backpackers admit to the five questions that everyone eventually asks.  They are; where have you been?,  where are you going?, where are you from?, how long are you traveling? and, how long have you been traveling?.  And no, what is your name isn’t in the top five.  Another thing I have learned is that people are genuinely interested in what you have to say, especially being an expat.  In the last 4 years that I have lived in Poland, one question I am asked quite often is, ”Why Poland?”.  I have been asked so many times, that I even wrote a blog about it: https://wendyjmarvin.com/2021/12/26/why-poland-theres-more-to-this-country-than-pierogi/.

On with the subject and I’ll try to make them as interesting as possible, but twenty facts doesn’t seem like an easy task.

I have a severe case of wanderlust.  My mother always told me I had the travel bug since birth.  I was born in Kimbrough Army Hospital, Fort Meade, Maryland.  Before I was born, not knowing he was going to be a father, my dad had a serious jeep accident while on maneuvers.  36 facial fractures and weeks in a coma, he was medically discharged 2 days after I was born and I went on my first road trip at 3 days old.  It wasn’t a long journey (from Fort Meade, Maryland to Warren, Ohio) but my mother swore it started my wanderlust.

I left the hospital nameless, well, as Female Marvin.   I guess it was allowed back in the day.  I was eventually named for Wendy from “Peter Pan”,  Keeper (mother) of Lost Boys.  Given my current situation, it might be fitting.

 

I have one brother, who is my best friend and biggest supporter.

I have visited 47 countries and if you throw in all the territories, like Hong Kong and Tibet which are part of China, that number would be well over 50.  I don’t count countries that I have only been to the airport.  5 hours in the airport in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia does not count as a country visited.

I loved reading National Geographic Magazine. Even though my mom claimed my wanderlust started at 3 days, I am fairly certain that my dad’s subscription to National Geographic magazine fueled it even more.  I loved perusing them cover to cover.  I now search out and purchase old issues that highlight places I have been.

I have eaten donkey meat, horse tartare, and a camel burger. 

I can (probably should read could) ride a unicycle. When I was about 6 or 7 years old, one of the only things I wanted for Christmas was a unicycle.  Santa came through and I learned to ride.  I even rode in the Pete Gabriel’s St. Patrick’s Day Parade when I was 12 or 13.  I probably wouldn’t attempt to get on one now with my bad knees and back, but I do remember giving it a go again on my 50th birthday just for shits and giggles.

My favorite color is green – sage green to be exact.

Gadget Ball when I was the bat girl before Little League

I was the first girl to play Little League in my town.  Although I played with dolls and such growing up, my dad loved baseball.  Whenever he played with my brother, and coaching his gadget ball team (I was the bat girl), he always let me play/practice too.  I had my own glove, a black one, for some reason I didn’t want the typical brown glove. Sunday mornings after Sunday School, he would take us to the ball field at Laird Avenue School and hit balls with us for an hour or so until it was time for my mom to get home from church.  I got pretty good and that’s how I ended up being the first girl in our city to play Little League.  I even played on Stan O’Day’s All-Star Team one year.

I love to cook.  Baking – forget about it!

I am halfway there.  If you have stuck with me, you still have 10 more facts to go.

I have lived in four countries other than the USA. Since we have already determined that I have had a passion for travel for a long time and if you know anything about me, it probably won’t come as a surprise that I have always had a love for Paris.  Wearing berets as a young girl and pretending I could speak French.  I think I always knew I would one day live in Paris and I did. If you read yesterday’s post, that is how this blog got started.  Since living in Paris, I also lived 4 years in China, 5 months in Bali, and currently just over 4 years in Poland.  I often say Paris is my heart and Bali is my soul.

I don’t own and don’t plan on owning a TV.  I haven’t watched television in over 10 years and have no plans to get a TV when I go back to the States. No, I don’t have a return date.  Life is short and the world is wide.

I love gin, and slightly dirty martinis with bleu cheese-stuffed olives. I visited the Beefeater’s Distillery in London with my friend Teri. I somehow convinced them to open the showcase and let me try on the crown.  I also came home with a lot of Beefeater bags. Cheers!

I broke my back in China. When I returned to the USA after living in Paris, I knew life on that side of the pond wasn’t what I wanted.  Little did I know when I started looking at ways to live abroad, that I would end up halfway around the world in a small village called Xiashan.  I lived in this village for 6 months (August 2015-February 2016) and fell in love with China.  6 months turned into 4 years. When I was living in my 4th city in China, Dong’e, I was in an accident on my scooter and suffered a broken back.  A funny story, I even thought it was funny before they wheeled me off for my 6-7-hour surgery. I had to have a “cage”  (rods and stuff) to “fix’ my broken back.  It would connect 3 vertebrae.  I spent about 36 hours in the ICU while my family was contacted in the USA and all my X-rays and MRI were reviewed by doctors there. Everyone agreed the surgery was necessary, but before they would do the surgery, I had to decide if I would accept “made in China” hardware or if I wanted to wait and get the hardware from the USA. Those 36 hours hadn’t been fun and I said, “Give me made in China.” The funny part, well I think it is funny, I had to sign a document (written in Chinese) that I was offered hardware from the USA but I accepted the made-in-China hardware.

I hate driving.

I have walked the Great Wall of China. My interest in China was sparked by former President Richard Nixon in February 1972.  He became the first president to visit the PRC, People’s Republic of China, ending 25 years of no communication or diplomatic ties between the two countries.  His visit also allowed the American public to view images of China for the first time in over two decades.  I remember he ate the fermented (black) eggs.  Other than whatever knowledge a 9-year-old would get in school, Nixon’s visit sparked my interest in the “Middle Kingdom”.  I remember thinking it would be cool to see/walk the Great Wall of China.  I fulfilled that dream several times over walking on 4 different sections of the Great Wall.  I even made it to the beginning/end where the wall meets the Bohai Sea.  I also have the National Geographic Issue about the discovery of the Terracotta Army and have been fortunate to see it twice.

I have helped exhume a body for cremation. While living in Paris, I became friends with Julie who worked at my favorite café.  She had a dream to move to Bali and made me promise I would visit her when she made this dream come true.  In February 2018, I made my first visit to Bali to visit her.  I decided I wanted to go to Ubud before I met up with Julie.  This is how I met my Balinese Family whom I love dearly.  In the few short days I stayed with them, they introduced me to the Balinese culture and traditions.  Before I left, they invited me to return in August to be a part of a Ngaben or cremation ceremony.  I did return and they included me as part of their family.  At 2 am the morning of the cremation, I accompanied them to the burial grounds of the temple to exhume Ketut’s mother’s body.

I have stood in Red Square in Moscow.

 

I have camped on Mount Everest Base Camp.  Long before I came to China, I had an interest in Tibet, and meeting the Dalai Lama is on my bucket list.  Yes, I know he no longer lives in Tibet, that aside, how could I live in China and not visit Tibet?  Getting to Tibet isn’t as easy as jumping on a train or plane and getting off in Lhasa.  An individual cannot enter Tibet without a travel permit and a Tibetan guide.  In other words, an individual cannot just turn up in Lhasa hang out for a few days and travel around the region. I was living in Hunan Province and it seemed like the time was ripe. In Shenzhen, I would begin my 53-hour train ride to “The Roof of the World’ or “The Land of Snows”, otherwise known as Tibet.  Because I had to have a guide and join a tour, one of my must-do’s was Base Camp.  I will never forget how I felt watching the sunset on that mighty mountain.  Or when I was outside my tent, alone at 4 am, and it looked like a billion stars in that night sky.

I plan to leave Poland at the end of this year and become a true Nomad for an undetermined amount of time.

There you have it.  20 facts about me.  But the most important fact about me is that I couldn’t have done all this without my family and friends.  Some of you have been friends for life, some I will never see again.  The support and encouragement you have given me is amazing.  A bonus fact:  My dream is to put my story into a book.  Thanks for being a part of my chapters.

 

 

How Down the Rabbit Hole Became Down the Rabbit Hole

How Down the Rabbit Hole Became Down the Rabbit Hole

I am going to attempt a writing challenge which is to write a blog post a day for 30 days based on prompts.  I haven’t been writing as much as I would like so maybe this will kick me into gear.  The first prompt is “Explain your blog’s name”.

“Down the Rabbit Hole”  is an English-language idiom that refers to getting deep into something or ending up somewhere strange or unknown.  It is also a metaphor for something that transports someone into a wonderfully (or troubling) surreal state or situation.  Lewis Carroll introduced the phrase as the title for chapter one of his 1865 novel “Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland”.  After this, the term slowly entered the English vernacular.

For those of you old enough to remember “MySpace”, my dabble in blogging started here.  Of course, that platform has changed dramatically since its inception.  However, I was able to salvage some of those blog posts and hopefully, they are on my computer back in Warren, Ohio.

When I decided to move to Paris in 2014, I also knew I wanted to document my experience living abroad.  I like to write, and blogging seemed perfect.  Although I felt comfortable in Paris, at 52 years old, moving to a foreign country solo was a step into the unknown that hopefully would transport me to a wonderful, even surreal experience in la ville lumiere.  Hence, Down the Rabbit Hole was born and introduced on Facebook on September 2, 2014, with these words and pictures; “  Tonight’s sunset….visited a lot of beautiful places today…can’t explain the beauty of Paris and totally can’t explain my obsession with this place…..but follow my blog and I will do my best to tell the story…..I have named my blog Down the Rabbit Hole…Journey to the Unknown.”

The pictures that accompanied the post were from my flat which had a view of the Sacre Coeur and the Eiffel Tower.  I maintained the blog while I was in Paris.  When I returned to the States and before I left for China, it was neglected.

I moved to China in August 2015.  Unfortunately, I didn’t get back into writing my blog.  I relied on Facebook to keep everyone in the loop as to my adventures in the Middle Kingdom.  Then, in February 2017, I was relocating to my fourth city in China, Dong’e in Shandong Province.  Something prompted me to start my blog again.  My bad…I didn’t keep up my domain or my WordPress account. Down the Rabbit Hole…Journey to the Unknown was lost and Down the Rabbit Hole My Adventures in the Middle Kingdom was born “again”.

Facebook Post February 20, 2017  (slightly ironic I chose to start this challenge almost 7 years to the date from when it was reborn)

“On Thursday, I will be boarding a train to take me to the 4th city I will call home in China, Dong’e City, also in Shandong Province, the same as Qingdao.  What little I know is it is a small city between Liaocheng and Jinan, similar to Xiashan. Jinan is the capital of Shandong Province, although it is closer by about 60 km to Liaocheng.  I will be working 2 days per week, Saturday and Sunday, at a Children’s Activity Center, about which I also know very little.  I was told my main duties would be to correct the children’s pronunciation and get them interested and have fun learning English.  Since I will have Monday through Friday off, hopefully, to do some traveling, I have also decided to attempt another blog.  It is called Down the Rabbit Hole~My Journeys (this was later changed to Adventures) in the Middle Kingdom.  It can be found at https://wendyjmarvin.wordpress.com/

I hope some of you will follow, comment, and ask questions.  Now, I must begin to pack as I will be moving partially by China Post since there is no way I can pack everything I have accumulated and carry with me on the train.  For those of you on my side of the world, have a great Monday. Good night, and pleasant dreams to those of you on the other side.”

Although the job turned out to be slightly different than I originally thought, it was a wonderful experience.  I ended up teaching Kindergarten a few days a week for a few hours per day and did some tutoring in my home.

I left China in July of 2019 and did a bit of traveling in Vietnam and had an extended stay in Bali.  I  moved to Poland in February of 2020 and started teaching Business English.  I lived in Poland throughout the pandemic.  I have had many opportunities to travel around Europe adding several new countries to my list.  I have spent 3 summers (most likely a 4th this year) working at a youth language camp on the Black Sea in Bulgaria and have added a new continent (Africa) and 3 African countries (Egypt, Morocco, and Tanzania) to my travels.  No longer in the Middle Kingdom, my blog name needed updating and it is currently; Down the Rabbit Hole…My Adventures in the Middle Kingdom and Beyond.

I plan to leave Poland at the end of this year and embark on an extended period of travel.  Will Down the Rabbit Hole get a new name?  Only time will tell.

 

 

“The little girl could not sleep because her thoughts were way too deep                     her mind had gone out for a stroll and fallen down a rabbit hole.”                               The End

Author Unknown.

2023-Reflections in the Mirror

2023-Reflections in the Mirror

Not sure how it got to be that time of year where I stare at a blank screen and rewind the past year.  I’m not one who makes New Year’s Resolutions, and there is a saying about never looking back because you aren’t going that way.  Never one for following convention, I love to reflect on the passing year.  Am I looking back to see what I’ve learned?  Oh, hell, no.  Looking back makes me happy…occasionally sad, maybe even angry, and sure, I’ve probably learned a few things along the way (you know all that “life-long” learner stuff), but there’s nothing wrong with glancing in the rearview mirror.  I don’t want to forget all those beautiful moments, people, and places that are behind me.  As selfish as this may sound, I write my stories for me.  It brings me joy and maybe, just maybe down the road an outline for a book.  The fact that you choose to join me on my journey and listen to my stories, well, the proverbial “icing on the cake”.  Since the page is no longer blank…a look back!

I rolled into January with my 2 flatmates/partners in crime from Azerbaijan…Tarlan and Zaka.  I say partners in crime because after attending a birthday party, we hopped on a bus and headed to Warsaw Old Town, our arms laden with bottle rockets, sparklers, firecrackers, and whatnot.  Side note: I’m fairly certain these are not exactly legal in the city center. Although, I have heard that it’s “okay” on New Year’s Eve, haha.   Thankfully, we weren’t the only hooligans on the streets.  It might not have been the best idea to stop and knock back a shot of whiskey from a street vendor or duck into Pijana Wisnia for some hot cherry liquor, but we did.  We shot off our arsenal, rang in the new year, and eventually headed home.  Welcome to 2023!

In January, I enjoy celebrating The Feast of the Epiphany, or Three Kings Day, or Little Christmas as my mom called it.  January 6th is a big deal in Poland.  It is a bank holiday so most everything is closed, and people don’t work.  Three Kings Day is celebrated with colorful and grand processions in most major cities in Poland.  The parade honors the three wise men – Kaspar, Melchior, and Balthazar…complete with the kings riding on live camels.  In Warsaw, the annual holiday procession usually begins at noon with the Angelus prayer near Sigismund’s Column on Plac Zamkowy, before winding its way through the Old Town to the live nativity scene on Plac Piłsudskiego.  It is quite enjoyable to walk with the processions, people (adults and kids alike) donning crowns and singing Christmas carols as they walk.

The rest of January and all of February were pretty quiet.  I celebrated Tłusty Czwartek (Fat Thursday) on February 16th by buying pączki, rose filled of course.  Although this year I didn’t spend 3 hours waiting in line in the rain.  I went to a different shop, and I went a day early.

I have always had an interest in King Tut and even more after traveling to see the pyramids in Giza in 2022.  When I saw Tutankhamun: His Tomb and His Treasures, an exhibition touring around the globe was in Warsaw, it was a must-visit for me.

March also found me at Jeff’s American Restaurant-Home of Happy People sharing typical American fare and a lovely evening with some of my co-workers from Eklektika (the language school I work for).  An evening that turned into 4 am when I decided to hit Nowy Swiat (New World Street) and party it up with a co-worker from South Africa but living in Krakow.  This is where I discovered wściekły pies shots.  Wściekły pies translates to mad dog and is made by pouring chilled raspberry syrup into a shot glass (the official recipe says ½ of the shot glass, but I prefer ¼ haha), topped with chilled vodka and then 3 or 4 drops of Tabasco.  I still can’t pronounce wściekły pies so for me they are whiskey pies.

Near my flat is Fabryka Norblina.  It is the site of a silver-plating factory in which 10 historic buildings have been restored/renovated into offices, shops, restaurants, cafes, Food Town, an eco-bazaar, a boutique cinema, and an open-air museum commemorating the history of one of the largest industrial enterprises of the former Kingdom of Poland!  Being a fan of Monet and after seeing the Van Gogh Immersive twice, I noticed an ad for Art Box.  Art Box is a multifunctional space for immersive experiences, where unique multisensory exhibitions, performances, concerts, and events are created at the intersection of art, science, digital technology, and entertainment. Fabryka Norblina is a five-minute walk from my flat, so,  I was quickly online buying a ticket when I saw Immersive Monet and the Impressionists being advertised.

The artistic experience consisted of almost one and a half million video frames and over 3,000 images featuring artists such as Claude Monet, August Renoir, Edgar Degas, Mary Cassatt, Paul Cezanne, Eduard Manet, and Eugene Boudin.  I know I spent at least 2 hours on the experience.

April arrived with the young’uns I live/hang with convincing me to go for a late-night billiards session.  I didn’t do bad considering I haven’t shot pool in a long time.

Easter found me in Budapest, Hungary which ticked a new country.  I knew little about Budapest other than it is the capital city.  I also realized I could not name one other city in Hungary.  Even after googling cities in Hungary, I still didn’t know any.  I arrived in Budapest with little to no plan other than meeting up with friends who would be embarking on a Viking River Cruise from there.

I did have my sight set on the Ruin Bars, which ended up being around the corner from my Airbnb.  Ruin Bars popped up in Budapest around 2001.  They are found in once-abandoned, derelict buildings and unused outdoor spaces.  They have been transformed into friendly, chaotic, lively, colorful bars laden with graffiti and eclectic décor.

Near Budapest’s parliament is a memorial called Cipők a Duna-parton or Shoes on the Danube Bank.  It is a memorial erected on 16 April 2005.  Conceived by film director Can Togay, he created it on the east bank of the Danube River with sculptor Gyula Pauer to honor the Jews who were massacred by fascist Hungarian militia belonging to the Arrow Cross Party in Budapest during the Second World War.  They were ordered to take off their shoes (shoes were valuable and could be stolen and resold by the militia after the massacre) and were shot at the edge of the water so that their bodies fell into the river and were carried away.

Another highlight was Easter Lunch at the New York Café.  Now Instagram famous it is dubbed as the most beautiful café in the world.  I ended my trip to Budapest enjoying dinner with the brother and sister-in-law of friends from the States who live in Budapest.  That’s all I’m going to say about Budapest but if you are interested in more you can read about it at this link in my blog https://wendyjmarvin.com/2023/04/23/reflections-on-friends-goodbyes-and-budapest/.  It is a fascinating city.

The last day of April and the 1st of May should probably have their own blog post, but I will try to summarize it here, haha.  There once was a box…it left Warren, Ohio in December of 2021 and was from my friend Teri.  After months of tracking, it was supposedly somewhere in Poland, but no one could tell me where or when I might get it.  End of June 2022 I left for Bulgaria and wouldn’t return to Warsaw until late September.  Sometime in August 2022, I received a message that I had a package (it was THE BOX) to pick up at the post office.  Not being in Poland, I asked my friend Valeria to see if they would let her pick it up (they wouldn’t) or if they could hold it until I returned (they couldn’t).  The box would be shipped back to the US of A. Fast forward to sometime in January 2023.  The box arrived back to Teri.  She was going to re-send it, but FedEx wanted around $400.

THE BOX!

Not long after that, I received a message from a classmate of Teri’s husband, Michael.   Anne would be coming to Poland to research her ancestry and asked if there was anything she could bring me.  Anne came to Warsaw, we planned to meet on April 30th for lunch.  Teri had sent her the contents of THE BOX (not all as it would have been too much stuff).  We met, she handed off the merchandise and we went for a lovely al fresco lunch in Plac Konesera in the Praga district.  After lunch, we headed to Old Town to sit, and we watched people while sipping a beverage.  Then we decided to go back to Praga and visit the Vodka Museum.  Well, we had just gotten off the tram and we were walking toward the Museum, and I dropped the “F” bomb.  I left the package sitting next to the outside table at the restaurant in Old Town.  Anne asked if I wanted to go back.  I said no, this is Poland, someone will turn it in, and I will get it on my way home.  I’ll call from the museum.  No one answered the phone, but I was able to send a message through Google and I got a reply.  They said, “We have your package.”  I told them I would be there later to get it.  Well, we left the vodka museum and decided on a nightcap.  The little Polish-French bartender was 20 and kept us entertained until we finally decided to call it a night.  I said goodbye to Anne and headed to the tram stop, not realizing it was so late the tram I needed had stopped running.  No problem, I called an Uber who dropped me as close to Old Town as possible as there is no vehicle traffic on the weekends.  Long story not short, a wee bit tipsy and sometime nearing midnight in Warsaw I picked up the package.  Another Uber to get me home with my treasures.  I had asked Teri for a (note the word “a” meaning one) packet of ranch dressing mix (no one knows what ranch is here) she of course sent me 12.  She also sent a Christmas shirt and “Home” hoodie from Sunrise Inn of Warren, an MTS painting company shirt from Michael and Anne tossed in a bag of candy.  That my friends is the saga of the box from 2021.

THE TREASURES!

May had started exciting with the delivery of “THE BOX”.  Then, I received a notification informing me that I had been selected for the 2023 class of the Warren City Schools Foundation Distinguished Alumni Hall of Fame.  My brother had been inducted a few years earlier, so joining him was an honor.  Of course, living in Poland, it wasn’t convenient for me to attend the induction ceremony and my brother would not be in Warren at the time to accept my award.  Thankfully, my dear friend, Teri, attended and accepted it on my behalf.

I rounded out May with a trip to the shooting gallery with friends.  I shot a sports pistol, a Glock 17 (my least favorite), a Colt 1911 pistol, an AK-47 Kalashnikov machine gun (my favorite), a shotgun, and a Glaubeyrt sub-machine gun.

It was my first time shooting most of these guns, but I have to say I liked shooting the AK-47. The shooting range, PM Shooter, was well run and our instructor was extremely patient and knowledgeable.  It was also very crowded (it was a weekend) and I was surprised by the interest in shooting in Poland.  More trips to the range in the future.  After shooting, what could be better than heading out for pizza?

In May, I also got to meet one of my students face-to-face (my classes are online).  He knew I had a love of Vietnam, especially Saigon/Ho Chi Minh City.  We also had talked about the time I shot a jeep-mounted machine gun when visiting the Cu Chi Tunnels which are about an hour and a half outside of Saigon.  Anyway, he returned from a tour of the country and told me he had something for me.  It was a Starbucks mug (he knew I collected them) from HCMC.  It was great meeting him, receiving the mug, and most of all seeing his bright red Camaro.

Halfway through the year, it was time to start thinking about getting ready for summer on the Black Sea in Bulgaria at Zenira Camp.  I like to travel a bit after Camp ends but this year I had no set plan.  Other than if I went somewhere, I needed to be back in Warsaw before Teri arrived on September 6th. I arrived in Kiten, Bulgaria on June 22nd, 4 days before the kids.  Time to relax, regroup, and plan before we hit the ground running.   Even though I have had my share of time off, “days” at camp don’t really matter or even seem to exist.  I often don’t know if it is a Tuesday or a Saturday.  A single day can drag by and at the same time they all run together, and another week is starting.  In the evening, sitting having a cold beverage with my co-workers, maybe after a “tough” (tough as camp can get, LOL), we may have grumbled, “OMG, it’s only week 3, we have 5 more to go.”  Next thing you know, we are sharing a beverage and saying, “How is tomorrow the last day of camp?”

After 5 weeks of camp routine, the only plan I had was to go to Veliko Tarnovo to visit long-time friends when camp finished.  At some point, there had been a plan to meet my flatmates in Azerbaijan, but that wasn’t going to work out.  The flight to Azerbaijan would have been through Istanbul, Türkiye.  If that had worked out I was also planning to stay over a few days in Istanbul.  Sometime that first week of August I said to myself, “Even if you can’t go to Azerbaijan, why not Istanbul after camp?” and booked a ticket.  Camp ended on August 19th.  I headed by train to Veliko Tarnovo on the 21st, followed by a bus to Sofia on the 24th and a shuttle to the airport for my flight to Istanbul.

I arrived in Istanbul with little knowledge of the city and no plan.  As I started researching Istanbul I had to ask myself why it wasn’t on my travel radar.  I also decided I needed to extend my stay so I could make a side trip somewhere in the country.  Did you know that Istanbul only became Istanbul in 1930?  Before that, it was known as Constantinople, named after Constantine the Great.  Not only that, but it is the world’s only transcontinental city.  The western side of the Bosphorus Strait is in Europe and when you cross to the other side you are on the Asian continent.  The morning after I arrived I set out to explore the area, Balat, in which I was staying and to have a traditional Turkish breakfast.

The breakfast at the Velvet Café did not disappoint.  I am not going to get into my escapades in Istanbul or my side trip to Göreme in Cappadocia (Instagram famous for hot air balloons), but you can read more about it here.  Since returning, I have read a great book by Elif Shafak called “10 Minutes and 38 Seconds in This Strange World”. Much of the book takes place in Istanbul and I wish I had read it before I went, so I’m just throwing it out there if anyone is interested.  The bottom line is I am glad I decided to go to Istanbul and take a side trip to Göreme.  Even extending my trip by 3 days, I was back in Warsaw with time to rest before a whirlwind visit with my friend Teri.

Since she was going to be in Dublin for a wedding and I was not sure how much longer I would be in Warsaw, we decided it was the perfect opportunity for me to show her the city I currently call home.  I snagged her from the airport on Wednesday around noonish and didn’t give her time to breathe.  We dropped her stuff off at the Airbnb which happened to be in the building next to mine and headed to Fabryka Norblina, which I mentioned earlier, for lunch.  Then it was off across the river to the Praga District and Koneser Bar ¾ at the Vodka Museum for some cocktails, then back to Old Town for Dinner.  I needed tartare in my life.  A stroll through Old Town, a walk along the Royal Route a stop at Pijana Wisnia for cherry liquor before heading to Nowy Swiat and “whiskey pies”, haha.  Remember those shots?  Wow, all that just since noon.  The rest of her trip was definitely a whirlwind of eating, drinking, and meeting my friends/tribe.  It was over in a flash, and she was heading to the airport on Sunday.

September in Warsaw for me means the start of a new school year.  Thankfully most of my classes didn’t start until October because 2 weeks after Teri left, I was heading to Paris to meet up with my friend Cathy.  We were going to be on a 3-week adventure starting in Paris, France, then on to Casablanca, Essaouira, and Marrakech, Morocco, then back to Paris and on to Krakow, Gdansk, and Warsaw Poland.  I’m just going to touch on a few highlights because this is already turning into a small novel.  I started off thinking I had a relatively calm 2023 until I started writing, so if you’re still with me congratulations because I must keep taking breaks from writing so I wouldn’t blame you if you had moved on…September 20th off to the city of my heart…Paris!

Paris is always a good idea…it was a rainy morning when I left Warsaw.  Paris, of course, is beautiful no matter the weather, but happily, it was partly cloudy and mid-70s Fahrenheit.  Cathy was already at our Airbnb when I arrived and we didn’t have much time because we were meeting other friends from Warren, Ohio at Harry’s New York Bar…a must-visit when in Paris.  That took up most of the afternoon and after a short rest we were off to meet them on the steps of Sacre Coeur for sunset with wine and pizza from “home”, the Sunrise Inn of Warren.

 

A few other highlights of the week were a visit to the Ice Kube Bar, and the Chagall Immersive Experience at Atelier des Lumières followed by lunch at Balls.  We took a day trip to Auvers sur Oise, the place where Vincent Van Gogh spent the last 70 days of his life producing 74 paintings and 30 drawings before dying on 29 July 1890.  No visit to Auvers is complete without a visit to the Absinthe Museum and a hike to the cemetery where Vincent and his brother Theo are buried.  Back to Paris with no itinerary except wandering and café hopping before heading to Morocco.

As busy as Paris is, landing in Marrakech is a 180° labyrinth of colorful, chaotic activity.  Riads are traditional Moroccan houses or palaces with an indoor garden and courtyard.  They are located within the old city “Medina” walls, and many are used as guesthouses.  We located ours, got settled in, and headed out to explore the medina.  That evening we enjoyed a lovely tajine meal on our rooftop.  The next day, I had a mission.  The last time I was in Marrakech was during the pandemic times and the Café Clock was closed.  Why did I want to visit Café Clock?  Simple…I wanted to eat a camel burger.  It was necessary to take a tuk-tuk to the restaurant, which is an experience in itself.  Mission accomplished…yummy camel burger consumed…our tuk-tuk driver retrieved us and dropped us back in the center of the medina.

The next day we were off to Casablanca.  The first destination was Rick’s Café, inspired by the 1942 film “Casablanca”, where I enjoyed a classic gin martini.

Casablanca sits on the North Atlantic in Northwest Africa and is the largest city in Morocco.  After leaving Rick’s Café we walked along the sea to the Hassan II Mosque.  It is the largest functioning mosque in Africa and is one of the largest in the world.  Its minaret is the world’s tallest minaret at 210 meters (689 ft).  A maximum of 105,000 worshippers can gather for prayer: 25,000 inside the mosque hall and another 80,000 on the mosque’s outside ground.  Then it was back to Marrakech because we had a day trip to Essaouira planned.

Located about 200 km west of Marrakech is the seaside town of Essaouira.  We walked around the port and then chose lobster, prawns, and fish to be grilled for lunch.  Essaouira, known until the 1960s as Mogador, is a port city in the western Moroccan region of Marrakesh-Safi, on the Atlantic coast.  In the Berber language, which is spoken by a sizeable proportion of the city’s inhabitants, it is called Taṣṣort, meaning “the small fortress”.  Archaeological research shows that Essaouira has been occupied since prehistoric times.  It was a lovely day on the North Atlantic.

 

We spent the last couple of days in Marrakech wandering around the medina before heading back to Paris on the first of October.

Back in Paris for a few days just enjoying the city.  We did get tickets for the opening of a special Van Gogh Exhibit at the Musee d’Orsay.  The exhibition was the devoted to the works produced by Vincent Van Gogh during the last two months of his life, in Auvers-sur-Oise.  From Paris, we made our way to Warsaw, but first, a stop in Krakow and a visit to Auschwitz followed by a late train to Warsaw.

My semester had begun so I was also working. I managed to show Cathy a good bit of Warsaw and we even took a weekend day trip to Gdansk before she headed back to the States.

 

For me, the rest of October was mainly teaching my classes.  November 1st is an important holiday in Poland, All Saints Day (Wszystkich Swietych).  On the 1st of November, millions of Poles come to cemeteries to light special candles, leave flowers, and pray for the dead.  I love visiting cemeteries but on the evening of All Saints Day, it is a sight to behold.  I belong to a Facebook group for female travelers.

One of the women in this group reached out to me because she would be in Warsaw on this day.  We met and wandered the cemetery together and then went for a glass of wine followed by dinner at a favorite restaurant near the cemetery, Maghreb, which just happens to have Moroccan cuisine.

I have another friend, Lenore… Yeah, I have a couple of friends.  Well, she was guiding a tour around Italy at the beginning of November.  One of the beauties of living in Warsaw is the ease and cost of flights in and around Europe.  I can be anywhere in 3 hours or less.  I knew when she was going to be in Rome.  I booked a last-minute ticket to the Eternal City.  I didn’t tell her I was coming because I had their itinerary and figured I would just pop in and surprise her.  Great idea in theory but little did I know the itinerary had been adjusted since the one I had.  Just off of Piazza Navona is a bar called La Botticella opened in 1991 by Giovanni Poggi.  It has since taken on a Pittsburgh Steelers theme, even selling Italian “terrible towels”.  Lenore being from the Pittsburgh area, was supposed to bring the group to this bar Wednesday night….NOT!  This is the itinerary change.  For the record, I am not a Pittsburgh fan, but I love Lenore so decided this was the place to surprise her.  Sitting at the bar chatting with Giovanni, sipping a martini, an hour goes by, and then 2.  Hmmm, maybe I better give Dave (her hubby) a call.  Somehow, my timing was perfect, and he had gotten separated from her so she still wouldn’t know I was in Rome.  They were on an evening tour of the Colosseum and then were heading back to their hotel.  Damn, what now?  Dave said he would convince her to go for a nightcap and would message me when they were on the way and where.  Well, with Dave’s help, I later found out he can’t keep secrets but kept this one (only from her as he told some others), I walked up to Lenore as she got off the bus and she was surprised!!!  Needless to say, one nightcap turned into several, and we made plans to meet up the next day for lunch and then back to the Steelers Bar before I had to fly back to Warsaw.  It was a 36-hour whirlwind and worth every minute.

The year was quickly coming to a close.  I prepared Thanksgiving dinner for a myriad of friends from Poland,  Azerbaijan, Jordan, and Ukraine.  December in Warsaw is beautiful.  The city is decorated to the nines.  I love going to Old Town for some mulled wine and a stroll to view the lights and decorations.  My former flatmates, Anu and Anil from Nepal, welcomed a new baby boy before year-end.  I celebrated Christmas with my current flatmates and friends, and we planned New Year’s Eve.  New Year’s Eve picks up where this blog started, with my partners in crime Tarlan and Zaka.  We started with a video call to Tarlan’s family in Azerbaijan.  We had a couple of shots with them and soon our party of three had grown to ten.

New flatmate Zoia from Italy via Ukraine and her mom, who was visiting, had spent much of the day preparing typical Ukrainian salads for the New Year.  More friends came over and we had some cocktails before hitting the streets with bottles of bubbly to ring in the New Year!  At midnight on the streets of Old Town with a group of 20-somethings, I welcomed 2024.

I am not sure what 2024 has in store for me.  As much as I love my life in Poland, it is easy to get too comfortable.  Although I don’t have a solid plan, it is likely 2024 will be my last in Poland.  Before you ask, no, I don’t plan to return to the USA, at least not right away.  I want to experience places that aren’t Paris, Rome, London, or Warsaw.  I want to drink Georgian wine in Georgia and visit the place Tarlan and Zaka call home Azerbaijan.  I want to see those countries you can’t pronounce, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, and Kyrgyzstan.  I want to visit friends in South Korea, China, Bali and more.  I want to do a WorkAway in India, visit Jordan, see my friend Omar’s home country, and visit Albania before it becomes too touristic.  I want to do it all without a plan other than knowing all the visa requirements for countries.  Who knows how much I can accomplish, and a lot can change in a year, but I leave you with a quote, author unknown, I keep in a folder called Notes to Self on my phone:  “There will be a few times in your life when all your instincts will tell you to do something, something that defies logic, upsets your plans, and may seem crazy to others.  When that happens, you do it.  Listen to your instincts and ignore everything else.  Ignore logic, ignore the odds, ignore the complications, and just go for it.”

It’s 2024…make the best of it!  Life is short and the world is wide.

Istanbul – A Tale of Two Continents

Istanbul – A Tale of Two Continents

Turkey or Türkiye or officially Türkiye Cumhuriyeti was never high on my “bucket list”.  Although locals aren’t sure what difference it would make, “Turkey” officially changed its name via the UN in December 2021.  The rebranding of the country was to dissociate it from the bird of the same name and negative connotations (per Cambridge Dictionary: as ‘something that fails badly’ or ‘a stupid or silly person’) associated with it.  I rather like the way it looks and is pronounced, but regardless of that, I never really thought much about visiting Türkiye.  Even though I loved the photos I had seen from Cappadocia of the hot air balloons, it just wasn’t on my travel radar.  It’s a good thing because during the 3 days I spent in Cappadocia, the balloons were grounded.  How did I end up spending 11 days in Türkiye?

I knew I was spending most of the summer in Bulgaria.  I have 2 flatmates from Azerbaijan, and we thought about meeting up in Baku after I finished camp.  Going to Baku from Bulgaria meant flying through Istanbul.  I of course thought why not spend a few days in Türkiye on my way…long story short, Azerbaijan didn’t work out and I decided to go to Türkiye for 11 days.  This decision was made around the first of August, so I needed to get busy and book a ticket to Istanbul, find a place to stay, and do a little research.  Ticket booked from Sofia to Istanbul for August 24th and Airbnb booked in Balat for August 24th – 31st.  Return ticket to Warsaw booked from Istanbul for August 31st.  As I started researching Istanbul I had to ask myself why it wasn’t on my travel radar.  I also decided I needed to extend my stay so I could make a side trip somewhere in the country.  I didn’t decide on Cappadocia until I was already in Istanbul but more on that later.  I was able to change my return flight to Warsaw to September 3rd (my dear friend Teri was coming to Warsaw on the 6th) for a $20 change fee.  I extended my Airbnb except for September 2nd as they were already booked.  I found a small hotel (Lumina Boutique Hotel) about a 20-minute walk from the Spice Market and near the water to spend my last night in Istanbul.

I arrived in Istanbul at about 5 pm, needed to get through immigration, find a taxi and then it was about an hour to my Airbnb in the Balat district of the city.  Did you know that Istanbul only became Istanbul in 1930?  Before that, it was known as Constantinople, named after Constantine the Great.  Not only that, but it is the world’s only transcontinental city.  The western side of the Bosphorus Strait is in Europe and when you cross to the other side you are on the Asian continent.  Balat is situated on the European side of the city and is a hidden gem but is also becoming the “new, hip” district.  However, I chose to stay up the hill in a residential area off the beaten path.  Now let’s talk about hills.  Okay, Istanbul is known as the city of seven hills (this was Constantine the Great’s way of competing with Rome).  I used to think Montmartre had hills.  Well, let me tell you Istanbul and my neighborhood, make Montmartre’s hills seem like speedbumps, haha.  Anyway, I arrived, made it to my cute little flat and the host pointed me up the hill to a small market where I could get water and some snacks.  That hill and I got very friendly over the next 11 days.

Coffee Throne

After a good night’s sleep, I was ready to explore the city I knew little about.  But first coffee!  After a little research, I set off in search of The Velvet Café.  Because I tend to chat it up with shopkeepers, I got waylaid at the Coffee Throne and enjoyed an iced latte (it was already quite hot even though it was early in the day) while talking with the owner.  By now, I was starting to get a bit hungry and continued to the Velvet Café for a traditional Turkish breakfast.  They seated me in a lovely garden area.  If ever there was a time for mindfulness, it was then.  The breakfast was a kaleidoscope of color and an explosion of flavor.  I savored every bite…a perfect start to my Istanbul journey.

My host had told me that the public transportation in Istanbul was very tourist-friendly.  If you know me, you know I have a love of Asia.  Ferries are part of the public transport system, I decided to take a ferry from Fener in Balat to Üsküdar in the Asian part of Istanbul.

The ferry ride was perfect and what a great way to see how sprawling Istanbul is.  With over 3000 mosques and a population of 15.8 million, it is the most populous city in Europe and the 15th largest in the world.  I spent the afternoon strolling around Üsküdar stopping several times to sip iced coffee and people watch before catching the ferry back.  I got off the ferry at a different port so I could walk around a bit more of Balat.

I was getting a bit hungry since my Turkish breakfast.  It was not my intention to eat a cheeseburger and fries for my second meal in Türkiye, but how could I say no to a handsome “young Turk” who took the time to explain how to make Turkish coffee in a cezve or an ibrik using hot sand?  It set me back 75 lira ($2.83) for a burger, fries, and a coke.  I don’t normally drink Coke, but why does it taste better in those little glass bottles?

With no plan the next day, I headed up my hill to the bus stop (it only has 2 bus routes).  I decided I would take whichever bus arrived first and that would be my destination.  I took a wrong turn and ended up taking the long way around.  I eventually saw 2 buses with the 2 numbers I was looking for, parked in front of a café.  Note, I didn’t see a bus stop, but hey, maybe the café was the bus stop. I managed to explain I wanted to take one of the buses.

“My Coffee Shop”

The shopkeeper told me 10 minutes, so I sat down with a bunch of men having coffee and ordered one for myself.  Next thing I know one of the guys is motioning for me to get on the bus.  So I jump on, scan my ticket, and take a seat.  I’m the only one on the bus.  Well, they didn’t tell me that the coffee shop wasn’t the actual bus stop.  It was 20 meters down the road where we stopped and picked up more people.

It was bus 90B which would take me to Hagia Sophia, which is one of Istanbul’s most recognizable landmarks.  Dating back to 325 when a temple was built on the site.  What you see today is not the same temple.  Fires in 404 and 532, then an earthquake in 532 caused significant damage.  Despite this, most of today’s structure still dates to the 6th century.

Lanzhou LaMian

I didn’t quite make it to my planned stop.  Gazing out the window, we passed an “Uygur” restaurant.  In my brain, the bells went off as that meant Lanzhou LaMian to me.  So I hopped off the bus at its next stop and ended up eating noodles.  Belly full of delicious noodles, I studied the map and discovered I could catch a tram (my favorite mode of transportation) to Hagia Sophia.  Arriving at my destination, the queue to get in Hagia Sophia was extremely long.  I realized it was Saturday and being midday it probably wasn’t the best time to visit.  I would try again another day or night as I discovered it is open 24/7.

The Blue Mosque, also known by its official name, the Sultan Ahmed Mosque (Turkish: Sultan Ahmet Camii), is an Ottoman-era historical imperial mosque, and is in the same vicinity as HS, so I took a wander in that direction.  As luck would have it, there was no queue, and I walked right in.  It was constructed between 1609 and 1617 during the rule of Ahmed I and remains a functioning mosque today.  Walking to catch a tram or a bus home, I was seduced by a window full of pistachio pastries and other Turkish delights.  I took a table on the patio and ordered some food just so I could have dessert.

Manti
Some Pistachio Dessert

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On the night I arrived, my host mentioned manti which is a type of dumpling mainly found in Turkish cuisine.  The dumplings typically consist of a spiced meat mixture, usually lamb or ground beef, wrapped in a thin dough sheet which is then boiled or steamed.  Mine came in a yogurt and butter sauce with aleppo pepper and spearmint.  Of course, I ended with a pistachio dessert that I have no idea what it was called.  Of course, I recognized the macaron.  Hot and tired from my day, I was happy to get home to my flat, but that last hill was a bitch.

Decided to sleep in the next day, then catch up on some emails before heading out late afternoon to catch the sunset on the Bosphorus.  The Bosporus or Bosphorus Strait is a natural strait and an internationally significant waterway located in Istanbul in northwestern Turkey that connects the Black Sea to the Sea of Marmara.  It forms part of the continental boundary between Asia and Europe.  It is the world’s narrowest strait used for international navigation.  In the area of the Blue Mosque, I was chatting with a guy who convinced me to buy a ticket and take a boat ride to enjoy the sunset.  I was not disappointed.  It was beautiful watching the city light up as the sky looked like it was on fire.

After the boat ride, I walked along the water.  There were vendors grilling fish and people enjoying the evening under a stunning, nearly full moon.  It was about 9:30 pm when I headed up from the Bosphorus toward Hagia Sophia.  I arrived just as there was a call to prayer. When I got to the entrance there was no line, and I was able to go in after the prayers.

Hagia Sophia, also called Church of the Holy Wisdom or Church of the Divine Wisdom, is an important Byzantine structure in Istanbul and one of the world’s great monuments.  Hagia Sophia started as a church.  Then it became a mosque for 500 years until 1934, then it became a museum until President Recep Tayyip Erdogan sanctioned the conversion of the building back into a mosque in 2016.  It’s difficult to describe my feelings standing in a structure from the 6th century.  Awestruck comes to mind along with wonder.

Leaving the Hagia Sophia, the sweet yet smoky aroma of grilled corn got the best of me, and I sat and ate an ear of corn looking back and forth between the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia…questioning why Istanbul wasn’t ever on my radar and thankful I made an impulsive decision to visit.

By now I have discovered I can get anywhere starting with one of the buses near my flat.  By now, the guys at the café are used to seeing me in the morning.  Sometimes I even get a type of muffin with my coffee.  I am also becoming addicted to Turkish coffee.

I have decided that my next venture will be to the Grand Bazaar.   It is the largest covered market in the world.  It’s expanded a bit since opening in 1431, and now houses approximately 3,000 shops and covers 61 streets. I was a bit underwhelmed, to be honest.  I was trying to find a way out because the surrounding streets were much more interesting.  I also wandered to the Spice Market and got lost on side streets, stopped for coffee, and took in the local life.

As I mentioned earlier, I decided to extend my stay in Türkiye so I could take a side trip.  Sometime after I arrived in Istanbul, I decided to fly to Kayseri and then take a shuttle to Göreme in the Cappadocia region of Türkiye, an Instagram-famous place for hot air balloons.  I also decided to use the Havabus to the airport.  This gave me a good reason to visit Taksim Square where I would need to catch the bus. It would be a bit of an adventure as I needed to go 15 minutes down my hill and catch a bus at 6 am to Taksim Square, then about a 10-minute walk to the bus stop and an hour to the airport.

The day before my trip I made a practice run to Taksim Square.  It was an area I wanted to visit because they have a vintage tram that runs down Istiklal Street which is lined with shops and restaurants.  It is also near the end of Istikal Street where you can find the Galata Tower.  A watchtower that was built in 1348.  Although I didn’t start at 6 am, I did make the practice run quite early.  I arrived at Taksim Square with no problem and found an outdoor patio to have breakfast and Turkish coffee of course, before looking for the bus stop.  I took my tram ride, then I saw a massage salon and popped in for a foot massage and then decided on a full body massage too.  Why not?  Being extremely relaxed I then stopped off for an ice-cold gin and tonic…Beefeaters too!  Instead of catching the bus home, I walked to the water and took a ferry to Balat and then had the long trek up the hill.

The next morning went off without a hitch and before I knew it, I was eating dinner in a fairytale world. Göreme is well known for its “fairy chimneys” or hoodoos, eroded rock formations, many of which were hollowed out in the Middle Ages to create Christian churches, houses, and underground cities.  It is believed that the first signs of monastic activity in Cappadocia date back to the 4th century. I booked a room in a cave hotel and had a lovely dinner and wine in a restaurant built in a fairy chimney.

I didn’t book a hot air balloon ride ( you need to be at the launch site at 4:30 am)  but intended on watching them fly by while sitting on my rooftop drinking coffee closer to 6:30 am.  I am glad I didn’t book a trip and head to the launch area bright and early.  Why you ask?  Because the days I was there they never launched due to weather conditions.  I did get up the first morning and waited and waited and waited before discovering the launch had been canceled due to wind.  It didn’t appear windy on my rooftop but, who knows?  The next morning, I checked the website before getting out of bed.  At about 10 am, I decided to walk to the Göreme Open Air Museum.  It was already 93° heading to 100°.

The Göreme Open Air Museum is a unique historical site located in the Cappadocia region of Turkey.  It was established in the 4th century AD as a monastic complex for Christians who were seeking refuge from persecution.  The complex features several churches, chapels, and monasteries that were carved out of the soft volcanic rock that is found throughout the region.  These structures served as important centers of religious and cultural activity for the Byzantine Christians who lived in Cappadocia from the 10th to the 12th centuries.  The frescoes and other artwork found within the buildings are some of the best-preserved examples of Byzantine rock-cut architecture and art in the world.  The frescoes depict scenes from the Bible and the life of Jesus and are notable for their intricate detail and vivid colors.

I’m glad I decided to take a quick trip to Göreme in Cappadocia. What a magical place.  For my last night, I wanted to find a spectacular spot to sip some wine, watch the sunset, and enjoy an amazing meal.  Again, I was not disappointed.

Back in Istanbul for a short day and a half.  I needed to move out of my flat and spend my last night at a hotel on the water.  Got settled at my hotel and went off in search of coffee.  I found a nice outdoor café ordered my Turkish coffee and the waiter insisted I needed to try something called kunefe.  It is made of kadaif pastry (looks like shredded wheat).  Kadaif pastry is chopped, coated with melted butter, and placed in a pan.  It is topped with some cheese and then another layer of kadayif pastry.  It is slowly cooked on the stovetop and then drizzled with cooled simple syrup.  Eaten hot so the cheese stays gooey.  I was stuffed and I hadn’t tried lahmacun yet.

I wandered the streets around the Spice Market because I wanted to buy a cezve and some Turkish coffee.  I also had to stop at one of the street vendors for freshly squeezed pomegranate juice.  Having been on the go since June 22, I felt like I was hitting a wall and went back to my hotel where I crashed for 2 hours.  After my much-needed nap, I went out in search of lahmacun.

Lahmacun is a flatbread topped with minced meat (most commonly beef or lamb), minced vegetables, and herbs including onions, garlic, tomatoes, red peppers, and parsley, flavored with spices such as chili pepper and paprika then baked.  I chose a random place on the map and the young man serving told me the kasarli lahmacun was the best…so that and a Pepsi was my choice.  It’s sometimes called a Turkish pizza and it does resemble one, but it has a flavor all its own.  The other thing is you roll it up to eat.  Can’t go wrong for $3 for a Pepsi and kasarli lahmacun.  As it was my last night,  I wandered the streets and thought about how I was glad I decided to come to Türkiye.  Istanbul, big, chaotic, colorful, and mesmerizing was much more than I expected.

Couldn’t leave Türkiye without another cup of Turkish coffee and Turkish delight…also waited for the shop across the way to open so I could eat lahmacun again before I headed to the airport…cutting it close, but…if you aren’t living life on the edge, you’re taking up too much space or in the words of Jimmy Buffett, “It’s important to have as much fun as possible while we’re here. It balances out the times when the minefield of life explodes.”

Time Passages

Time Passages

In the 1960s, Robert Ornstein, through a series of experiments, verified that the speed of time seems to be largely determined by how much information our minds absorb and process — the more information there is, the slower time goes. So how does this apply to us as adults? Does time seem to pass more quickly? Is there less newness in our lives? Are we slowly using up our quota of potential new experiences or as we become older, are the experiences just becoming more familiar to us?

I’m not going to try to wrap my head around the psychology of it all, but as I sit here at Zenira Camp counting down the last days of 8 weeks at camp, I feel like I just arrived and at the same time it feels like a lifetime. As I have discussed with my co-workers, time moves differently at summer camp. I’ve also realized, it is not just at summer camp. This month it has been 9 years since I packed up my life and moved abroad. How is that possible? It seems like yesterday but when I look back on all that I have experienced, I wonder how I have done so much in 9 years, more than most people in a lifetime. Maybe I have lived a lifetime at Zenira Camp.

Let’s start with “camp time”. Even though I have had my share of time off, “days” at camp don’t really matter or even seem to exist. I often don’t know if it is a Tuesday or a Saturday. A single day can drag by and at the same time they all run together, and another week is starting. It may seem like there is a lot of routine during a summer camp. In theory, there is, but shit happens. The kids go to the beach after breakfast. That’s great…until it is pouring rain. This means that as a teacher, English lessons (Zenira is an English Language and Sports Camp) are moved to beach time…so much for planning time. Excursions are usually on Wednesday afternoon…until the bus company reschedules, and the excursion gets changed to Thursday. So now, an afternoon off is now English lessons, and the afternoon off is bumped back a day. Or the temperature on a sports afternoon decides to jump to 104°F/40°C so sports get changed to clubs so the kids can be in air conditioning. I have been at camp for just over 6 weeks now and we haven’t had one “normal” week as the schedule reads. Always some anomaly changing the schedule…so much for routine. It’s no wonder I occasionally had no idea what day it was let alone how much time has gone by. Summer camp has its own clock. Somedays it runs fast while others it runs slow.

Is time an illusion….I’m in the here and now in Kiten Bulgaria. Soon, I will be visiting Velika Tarnova, Bulgaria and my past will coincide with my present when I meet up with friends I met 20 years ago in the USA. Yet at the same time I am planning a visit to Turkey, country number 42 or 43 (honestly, I have lost track) in a few weeks, and thinking about the future visit of my friend Teri to Warsaw and further into the near future a trip to Paris, Morocco, and Poland with Cathy. No wonder time is fleeting, I am living the past the present, and the future simultaneously…time IS an illusion.

What’s all this have to do with anything? I guess as I sit here on my 61st birthday, time is on my mind. My mother never reached this age, and my father had no idea when he was 61 that he had a mere 2 years left on this rotating sphere of opportunities. For me, they are forever young. I just don’t understand how 23 and 26 years have passed since they left this amazing life. I know I will never have time to do everything I want to do, see, and experience. So I want to make the most out of the time I do have. In the words of Steven Taylor, “Time doesn’t necessarily have to speed up as we get older though. To a certain extent, it depends on how we live our lives, and how we relate to our experience.” I plan to live my life to the fullest and be mindful of my experiences.

I mentioned above that I can’t believe I have lived abroad for 9 years. Even though I have mostly had a home base, I have lived in 4 different countries during this time. Each one has a very different lifestyle. I traveled quite a bit before moving to Paris, traveling to a place is very different than living in a new culture and country. It was here that I realized that your ordinary can be someone else’s extraordinary. Even though it is mostly “Western”, it is a far cry from life in the small town of Warren, Ohio. After living nearly 6 months in Paris, I returned to Warren, Ohio already knowing I wanted to follow my wanderlust and lead a nomadic life in new and radically different places. I had traveled to Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand, and Vietnam, prior to living abroad and the Far East was pulling me. I signed up for a 6-month stint in China. That 6 months quickly came to an end, and I knew life in China was not over, it had just begun. But…in what seemed a blink of an eye, that 6 months turned into 4 years.

I feel like I lived a lifetime in those 4 years. I visited so much of China; living in 4 different cities/towns, saw 3 different parts of the Great Wall, Xi’an, and the Terracotta Army, Inner Mongolia where I was the only guest of a nomadic settlement. I rode a camel in the Gobi Desert and made a half dozen trips to Hong Kong…not to mention Beijing, Shanghai, Guilin, Guangzhou, and a few Ancient Towns. I spent 8 days in Tibet and even though it is considered part of China, it felt like another world…the land that time forgot. In Tibet, I camped at Mount Everest Base Camp. Living in China made it easy to visit South Korea, where I am sure I went 6+ times. From China, I also visited Moscow, Tokyo, Thailand, Nepal, Vietnam, and Cambodia, and made my first visit to Bali. I also made several trips to Paris via Abu Dhabi, Dubai, and Qatar. Sometimes it doesn’t seem possible that after China, I lived nearly 6 months in Bali and am coming up on 4 years in Poland. In the past two years, I have added Egypt, Morocco, Tanzania, and Hungary to my list with Turkey in the near future.

Spending the summer with these kids at camp, remembering when I was one of those kids makes me realize, time is my most precious commodity. Not that I need to race around and always be doing something, because downtime is important too…you know…balance. I could put all kinds of quotes about time here, but what I want to say after all of this is…find the time to do what makes you happy, what makes your soul feel alive, because no matter how many times we think we will have the time to do those things, the planets never quite align for that perfect moment…do it now! I think the popular soap opera of my childhood said it best….”Like sands through the hourglass, so are the days of our lives.”

Peace Out!

Reflections on Friends, Goodbyes and Budapest

Reflections on Friends, Goodbyes and Budapest

This was meant to be a post about ticking country 42 and my experience in Budapest, Hungary.  As I have spent some time over the week since I have been home, home in Warsaw, thinking, it has turned into something more than a review and a number on a list.  I belong to a Facebook Group of females over 50 who travel solo.

About a month ago, I received a private message from Hanlie, from South Africa, a member of the same FB Group.  She was going to be in Warsaw, and asked if I would like to meet up for coffee while she was in town?  Well, this morning, that happened. We had a lovely couple of hours sharing life stories, adventures, travel tips and mishaps, bucket lists, favorite places and experiences, food, you name it we probably covered it.  To steal a message I recently received from Maria (I’ll introduce you to her later), “It was a pleasure to meet another intrepid soul.”

I think people often don’t understand the concept of traveling solo and extended travel/life abroad.  I hear the questions, “Aren’t you lonely”, “Isn’t it dangerous”, and “are you trying to find yourself”, and I’m sure you can add your own questions here.  I have spent the better part of the last 9 years living outside of my home country.  I can honestly say, I don’t think I have ever felt truly lonely.  As a matter of fact, I believe you meet more people and it’s easier to meet people and have random experiences solo versus traveling as a group or couple.

Life on the road is no more dangerous than life in Warren, Ohio and in some cases, it’s probably safer.  Yes, I have had a few of my own “Eat, Pray, Love moments (mostly the eating part), but in reality, it’s just normal life in a different country.  Although, it is true that someone’s ordinary might be your extraordinary.  Maybe the hardest part of not just solo travel, but travel in general, is the realization that people with whom you have formed a bond, you most likely will never see again in your life.

At this point, you are probably asking yourself what this has to do with Budapest.  Trust me, it will all fall into place.  First, we must roll back sometime prior to 2006.  Before I became a Facebook whore, I was an active member of “Cruise Critics”.  A space where people going on cruises could interact with others on their sailing.  October 7 – October 22, 2006, Tom and I were embarking on a cruise out of Los Angeles, through the Panama Canal and ending in Fort Lauderdale.  On the cruise forum, I met Barb and along with her husband Danny, they would be on the same sailing.  We met on board the ship, saw each other throughout the cruise, and parted ways in Fort Lauderdale not knowing if our paths would cross again.  We did, however, become friends on Facebook and kept in contact through random comments and likes on each other’s posts.  She also followed my move to Paris, then China, Bali, and my current home Warsaw, Poland.

When Tom died in early 2020, Barb went through her photos and found pictures of Tom and me from the Panama Cruise and sent them to me.  Over the course of my years abroad, Barb also virtually introduced me to some of her family and friends who also had a love of traveling.  Late in 2021, Barb and crew would be coming to Amsterdam to board a river cruise.  Earlier in the year she planted a small seed in my head suggesting I meet them in Amsterdam, after all, it would be 15 years since I last saw them.

In November 2021, I booked a berth on a canal boat and a plane ticket to Amsterdam.  It was great seeing Barb and Danny again and I got to “really” meet her sister, Kay, and friends, Dawn, Randy, and Diana.  What can I say, we had a blast in Amsterdam, and before we parted ways, me back to Warsaw and them on their river cruise, another seed was planted. Their cruise ended in Basel Switzerland, and they would be going to Paris for several days.  If you know me, the word Paris doesn’t need to be spoken twice before I have a plane ticket booked.  Even if it would be for a mere 48 hours.

A Friday evening in December, at 21:00,  I got off the plane in Paris and went directly to Harry’s New York Bar to meet them.  Back on the plane Sunday and back home to Warsaw.

 

 

Relax…Budapest is next.

I think Barb has figured out that it doesn’t take much to convince me to hop on a plane.  The beauty of Europe and living in Poland is I can be in just about any country in Europe in 2.5 hours or less.  She told me the crew was taking a river cruise from Budapest to Amsterdam (no, I’m not going to Amsterdam again, I was there 3 times last year).  There would also be 2 others going on the cruise that I didn’t know.  That’s how I met Rosa and her sister Maria who I quoted above. And that my friends, is how I ended up spending Easter in Budapest, Hungary.

All that backstory probably isn’t necessary, but hey, I’m a storyteller and more people from my past will join later in the post.  Chatting today with Hanlie and then parting ways made me think about how many people I have said “goodbye” to.  I don’t really like to say goodbye.  It seems so permanent.  I prefer, see you next time, because as unlikely as it may be, you really don’t know when you may be fortunate to cross paths again.  Barb and Danny are proof of this.

Hungary would be a new country for me, and I knew little about Budapest other than it is the capital city.  I also realized I could not name one other city in Hungary.  Even after googling cities in Hungary, I still didn’t know any.  Surprisingly, the capital has a population of 1.8 million and the next largest city only 200,000.   I did a lot less research than I normally do and decided I would figure it out once I got there.  I rented an Airbnb for 6 days as I planned to work while I was there.  I arrived on Good Friday, a day before the crew.  I knew in advance that almost everything would be closed on Good Friday, Easter Sunday, and Monday.  What else did I know about Budapest?  Not a whole heck of a lot.

Landing at the airport in Budapest it is quite convenient to take the Airport Express Bus 100E.  I downloaded the Budapest Go app and purchased my ticket in advance.  You pick up the bus right outside the terminal.  The cost of a one-way ticket is 2200 HUF (Hungarian Forint) which is about 5.85 euros or $6.40.

When you board the bus someone will validate your ticket by scanning the QR code on your phone.  The bus drops you at the city center on the Pest side of the Danube at Kalvin, Astoria, or Deak ter bus stops.  Getting off at Astoria put me a 5-minute walk from my Airbnb.  Since I mentioned the bus stops on the Pest side of the Danube, let me explain.  Separated by the Danube, Buda, and Pest form the two halves of the Hungarian Capital.  They have been linked by the Chain Bridge since 1849.  The Buda side is known for its hills offering panoramic views of the city across the river and Pest is entirely flat.  Buda and Pest were once two separate cities and were united in the 1870’s.

After getting settled in my flat, I decided to walk toward the river and see if I could find something to eat.  I also wanted to pick up some snacks and a bottle of wine.  I was happy to discover that there was a Spring/Easter Market around the main square and side streets.  I perused the kiosks and then made my way to the food area.  I indulged myself with a massive lamb shank, cooked red cabbage, and 3 giant pickles.

 

After eating I figured out where the crew would be staying when they arrived the next day and then walked down to the Danube.  I people-watched for a bit and tram-watched because I love my trams.  I then walked back to my flat and decided I wanted to check out the Ruin Bars I had heard so much about.  Funny how I didn’t know much about Budapest, but I knew about the bar culture.

Ruin Bars popped up in Budapest around 2001.  They are found in once-abandoned, derelict buildings and unused outdoor spaces.  They have been transformed into friendly, chaotic, lively, colorful bars laden with graffiti and eclectic décor.  They are also known for cheap drinks. Little did I know when I booked my flat, I would be around the corner from the most famous of the Ruin Bars, Szimpla Kert.

That was my destination for the evening.  I had heard tales of long lines to enter, but being relatively early as party-going hours go, I walked straight in.  I ordered a glass of wine and walked around just to feel the vibe.  I was a bit tired, so I took some photos, finished my wine, and headed home.  On the way home I passed a small convenient store and grabbed some instant coffee, water, and some snacks.  I was all set for my stay in Budapest.

No rush to wake up, I slept late, made my instant coffee, and then headed out in search of “real” coffee.  I found the Blue Bird Café after googling coffee shops.  Arrived…the line was out the door, so I continued and found a cool little book café.

Inside, bookshelves covered the walls and cozy window seats, and giant pillows filled the space along with café tables.  Finished my coffee, I was getting a bit hungry as it was after twelve noon.  I strolled to the area where the others would be staying.  On the way, I chatted it up with a guy who was with the hop-on hop-off bus.  He directed me to a Mexican restaurant, and I also ended up with a 3-day pass for the hop on buses and river boats.

The Mexican food was so-so. After a bite to eat it started to rain.  Since I had time to kill before the arrival of the others, I decided to take advantage of my hop-on hop-off bus pass.  I was near stop number one and boarded by St. Stephen’s Basilica in which you can find the right hand of St. Stephen himself.  The bus has several different routes and I happened to catch one that completed a loop of the Pest side and then with a bus change I was able to do a loop of the Buda side.  A perfect way to spend time on a rainy afternoon.  After a couple of hours of sightseeing, I got off the bus about where I started.

By now it was getting close to the time for the others to arrive so off I went to find them.  Before I found them, I found another cute little café (it was still drizzling) and had a glass of prosecco to pass the time.  They all arrived exhausted after the trip across the pond, but also hungry.  We decided a few of us would head out to the food kiosks and buy a bunch of food and bring it back to their 4-bedroom flat.  Of course, I suggested some adult beverages as travelers while we walked around deciding on the food…big gulp size Aperol spritz was the beverage of choice.  Oh, and if you know anything about European elevators, they are phone booth size.

Silly as we were, we decided to pack 5 people in the elevator.  It was a fun opening night, and I won’t tell the story of Danny and the broken table…I left them and the broken table early so they could get some sleep; I passed through the Ruin Bars on my way home and then called it a night.

Welcome to Easter Sunday…made my instant coffee and then grabbed a traveler on my way to meet up with the crew in the square outside their flat.  We headed down to the river as we planned to follow the river to the Parliament Building.

Near the parliament is a memorial called Cipők a Duna-parton or Shoes on the Danube Bank.  It is a memorial erected on 16 April 2005.  Conceived by film director Can Togay, he created it on the east bank of the Danube River with sculptor Gyula Pauer to honor the Jews who were massacred by fascist Hungarian militia belonging to the Arrow Cross Party in Budapest during the Second World War.  They were ordered to take off their shoes (shoes were valuable and could be stolen and resold by the militia after the massacre) and were shot at the edge of the water so that their bodies fell into the river and were carried away.  Most of the murders along the edge of the river Danube took place around December 1944 and January 1945, when the members of the Hungarian Arrow Cross Party police (“Nyilas”) took as many as 20,000 Jews from the newly established Budapest ghetto and executed them along the riverbank. The memorial represents their shoes left behind on the bank…A very powerful scene.

Being after one o’clock everyone was getting a bit hungry.  We decided to take our chances and see if we could eat at The New York Café.  Now Instagram famous it is dubbed as the most beautiful café in the world.  At the turn of the 20th century, the New York Café was the most beautiful and the most beloved coffee house in Budapest.  It was a popular place among writers and editors, in fact, the most influential newspapers were edited there, upstairs in the gallery.  After World War II, the once famous café fell into disrepair, and it served as a sporting goods shop.  Although the café reopened in 1954, under the name of Hungária, it wasn’t until 2006 that the New York Café was restored to its original splendor.  Today, the New York Palace, built in eclectic Italian Renaissance style and opened on October 23, 1894, gives home to the New York Café.  The day before during my hop-on bus trip, we passed the café and even in the rain the line was around the corner, but we said let’s go and try.  We grabbed a taxi. I ordered a vehicle for 6 people, and we all questioned the fact that they were sending a Prius.  When it arrived we all learned there is a Prius+ with 3 rows of seats.  Not pertinent to the story but if you could have seen us (we also had mulled wine while we were at the river) trying to figure out how a Prius could take the 6 of us…it was a laughable, memorable moment.  Arriving at the café, indeed the line was long, but I have a little tip for anyone who may be reading this and planning a trip to Budapest and the New York Café.  Walk to the front of the line, and there is a small sign that says, “fast track”.  It points you into the café and for 5 euros per person added to your bill, you can skip the line and we were seated without a wait.

The first thing we did as we perused the menu was ordered some lovely pink bubbles.  It is indeed a sight to behold…it is worth the 5 euro…food was good…I wouldn’t say it was out of this world, but the atmosphere made it a perfect place for Easter lunch.  By the time we finished a light, leisurely lunch, the others needed to head back to get ready for their 5pm Hungarian Cooking Class which would last about 4 hours.  We made plans to connect after they finished, and I went off walking to explore the neighborhood.

I had walked around for about 15 minutes, and I heard the sounds of Frank Sinatra floating out the door of what looked like a cool place.  It was Doblo Wine Bar.  I peeked in and was drawn inside by the music, the décor, and the thought of some more bubbly.  I ordered a glass of prosecco recommended by the bartender and got lost in the classic American music as I sipped. Next, I continued walking until I ended up back at the main square of the Spring Market and sat at another café since it was nearly 6pm, I ordered a meat and cheese platter, and people watched.  I then decided to go to the river and take an evening river cruise since it would be a few hours until the others finished cooking.  Bad idea!  There was a massive line, the boat that was leaving was full, and everyone would have to wait until the next one 30 minutes later.  Looking at the line, and hearing the people yelling at the poor guy checking tickets, I decided there was no way all those people could even get on the next boat.  I went on my merry way.  Walking along the river I caught a most glorious sunset and then stopped off for a coffee.  The group messaged me as they were finishing up the cooking class and it was decided a trip to the Ruin Bars was in order.

There was a short line when we arrived at Szimpla Kert but it moved quickly and soon we were inside ordering cocktails.  After a bit of picture-taking, a gin & tonic, a long island iced tea, a bit of dancing, and lots of laughing we decided to call it a night.  The line to get in had easily tripled as were leaving. What happens at the Ruin Bars stays at the Ruin Bars and I’ll just leave it at that.  A good time was had by all even when you end up in a wee street ruckus.

I knew there was no reason to rush on Monday morning as the others needed to check out of their AirBnb by noon and could move into their rooms on the riverboat around 3pm. So I slept late and then headed their way around 11 am.  The weather had been cool and rainy since I arrived, but this day looked promising.  I remembered a little coffee shop/bar in the square outside their flat, so I made my way and sat and enjoyed a cappuccino while I people watched.  I decided not to go up to the flat because somehow with 8 people packing luggage and moving around I figured I would just be in the way.  Herding kittens comes to mind. Soon I saw them come out and we got a table in the sun at Marty’s, a nice restaurant in the square.

After a leisurely lunch, it was time to get taxis to take them to the boat.  I should probably mention here that the waiter twisted our arms, really, and talked us into sampling some traditional Hungarian Pálinka.  Pálinka is a traditional fruit spirit (or fruit brandy) with origins in the Carpathian Mountains, more exactly known under several names, and invented in the Middle Ages.  Protected as a geographical indication of the European Union, only fruit spirits mashed, distilled, matured, and bottled in Hungary and similar apricot spirits from four provinces of Austria can be called “pálinka.”

Since the boat was docking there overnight, I went along to see if I could go onboard and check it out.  It was the first time I had been on a Viking River Boat…very impressive.  I hung out for a while before heading out.  They had a night tour of Budapest scheduled through the cruise line and I was going to see if I could get on the evening hop-on river cruise.  Plans were to go to the Central Market the next morning.  I was successful in getting on the river cruise that was just before sunset, so it was beautiful to watch the city light up.  Picked up a pizza on my way home and had a quiet evening in my flat.

Grabbed a tram and headed to the market around 9am Tuesday morning and met up with the others.  I bought some spicy Hungarian paprika and a Budapest t-shirt that caught my because it had a tram on it.  After the market, we started walking toward St. Stephen’s Basilica.

We had to pass the Dohány Street Synagogue also called the Great Synagogue.  It was at the end of my street but unfortunately, I never made it inside.  It is the largest synagogue in Europe and the second largest in the world.  The synagogue was built between 1854 and 1859 in the Moorish Revival style.  The synagogue was bombed by the Hungarian pro-Nazi Arrow Cross Party on 3 February 1939.  Used as a base for German Radio and as a stable during World War II, the building suffered some severe damage from aerial raids during the Nazi Occupation but especially during the Siege of Budapest.  During the Communist era, the damaged structure became again a prayer house for the much-diminished Jewish community.  Its restoration and renovation started in 1991, financed by the state and by private donations, and was completed in 1998.

On the way to the Basilica, we stopped at a small bistro for some lunch.  The waitress to me the goulash was almost as good as her grandma’s, hence I had my first bowl of real Hungarian goulash.  It was delicious and filling, although Hungarian goulash does not have pasta like I was used to in the States.  On to St. Stephen’s where we would part ways and exchange our, “until next times” because with this group it’s not goodbye.  They were setting sail later that evening and I was having dinner with friends I hadn’t yet met.

As I said earlier in this post, which has been turned into a small novel, I would be bringing up others from my past along with a new cast of characters, Rosa and Maria being just two of those.  Not long after I posted on Facebook that I would be going to Budapest (no comments Mark, I know your opinion of Facebook), I received a message from a woman I had met at a wine tasting in my hometown.  Pamela was in Warren temporarily as CFO (I hope that’s right) of our local hospital.  Other than a few times at wine tastings, we didn’t see each other around town, and she eventually moved back to Arkansas when her time at the hospital ended.  When I moved to Paris, she came and spent the week between Christmas and New Year’s along with her friend Patty.  See what I mean by saying see you next time and not goodbye.  So, back to Budapest.  Pam messaged me that her husband’s brother and his wife lived in Budapest.  She even set up a group chat so we could exchange plans.  Being a holiday weekend, Matt and Erzsi were mostly busy with family plans, but graciously made time to take me to dinner on Tuesday evening and then an evening tour of the city.  We had a lovely evening at Rosenstein.   Rosenstein is a well-known restaurant in Budapest serving traditional Hungarian and Hungarian-Jewish dishes.  Tibor Rosenstein, currently eighty, started this family-run operation which is located a bit outside the city center and is currently helmed by his son Róbert.

What a lovely evening.  I had an amazing wild garlic soup and veal paprika with spaetzle along with red wine.  The best part of the evening is passing time chatting with people you just met, yet it feels like you have known them forever.  I know I overuse this quote by William Butler Yeats, but it is so true…”There are no strangers here; only friends you haven’t yet met.”  After dinner, we took a ride to the Buda side and up the hill to the Citadella which is the fortification located upon the top of Gellért Hill and offers amazing views of the city.  It was glorious at night.  Afterward, they dropped me at my flat and I turned in because I had early classes to teach in the morning before I checked out.

Over the weekend, I also received a message from another friend in Warren, Marty.  His cousin also lives in Budapest.  Unfortunately, our schedules didn’t match up because of conflicts for both of us.  Naturally, I said, “Well, maybe next time.”  There just may be a next time, Budapest is a one-hour flight from Warsaw, and I didn’t get to explore the Buda side of the city and I completely forgot about something my friend in Warsaw, Pawel, told me.  Did you know?

The Budapest Metro is the world’s oldest electrified underground railway system, and the second oldest underground railway system with multiple stations, after the originally steam-powered London Underground.  Budapest’s iconic Line 1 was completed in 1896.  I am so fascinated by trams, I completely forgot that he told me to ride the metro.  Even worse, he told me more than once.  I did, however, photograph a couple metro station entrances for whatever reason.

It was a fabulous six days in a beautiful city with amazing architecture and history. I met up with old friends and made new ones.  I am reminded of a quote from Brooke Hampton that my friend Andree sent me, “I am pieces of all the places I have been, and the people I have loved.  I’ve been stitched together by song lyrics, book quotes, adventure, late-night conversations, moonlight, and the smell of coffee.”

Life is good and I am blessed…thanks Pamela I took that from you.  Peace out!

Tanzania Part 3 ~ Bright English Medium School, A Serengeti Safari and Kilimanjaro

Tanzania Part 3 ~ Bright English Medium School, A Serengeti Safari and Kilimanjaro

When I ended my last post, I said my goodbyes at the Maasai Giraffe Eco Lodge.  James and Timan were taking me by tuk-tuk to catch the bus to Wasso Tanzania.  It is the same bus that I had started my journey a mere 4 days earlier.  You remember, the crowded, hot, dusty Loliondo Coach packed to the gills with people, supplies, luggage, and even a live chicken.  The coach makes a daily 8–10-hour trip from Arusha to Loliondo.  I would be getting off in Wasso to go to Bright English Medium School where I had volunteered for a WorkAway.

Engare Sero Bus Stop

We arrived at the bus stop in Engare Sero, James had to get back to the lodge, but Timan stayed with me until the bus arrived.  Lidia from Bright School had pre-arranged my bus ticket and got me a seat in the first row next to the window and across the aisle from the bus driver.  Next to me was one young lady and sitting on bags of rice in the aisle was one gentleman and then the bus driver.

In My Seat
My backpack on the ledge

 

I’m not sure what was behind the driver, but it resembled a wood or coal-burning stove.  Luckily this was a longer-than-normal stop and most everyone got off the bus to grab a bite to eat so I was able to make my way to my seat easily.  Timan gave my suitcase to the driver to put somewhere, and I put my backpack on the front window ledge next to several loaves of bread and various other paraphernalia.   I took a minute to take in my surroundings and knew I was in for an interesting journey.

After 5 hot, dusty, bumpy hours on the bus, I arrived in Wasso. It wasn’t the most comfortable trip, but it was better than the ride to the Giraffe Lodge, mainly because of my seat position.  Also, looking out the window and seeing random giraffes and dazzles of zebras along the way somehow made it almost dreamlike.  I messaged the school inquiring if I should get off the bus in this small village called Wasso.  Lidia said, “no, stay on and let me talk to the driver.”

Back on the road and about 15 minutes later, the bus pulled to the side, dropped me off, found my suitcase, and I arrived at my home for the next couple of weeks.  When I said dusty, check out the photo of my suitcase when they took it off the bus and then after the ladies who cook and clean at the school washed it for me.

Before
After

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There were no children at the school as they would be arriving over the weekend to start the new semester.  Approximately 200 children live at the school and about 300 attend.  I was greeted by 6 other volunteers, representing Italy, France, Germany, and Austria, and shown to my room which I would be sharing with Sara from Italy.  There is no running water at the school.  This meant we would be taking bucket showers and using pails of water to flush the toilets.  The location of the school which is between Wasso and Loliondo, Tanzania sits about 2° south of the equator and at an altitude of approximately 2000 meters (6560 ft) above sea level.  Why is this important?

For my bucket showers
My bed

It is important because I arrived with flip flops and one pair of closed-toe Keen sandals, no socks, 1 hoodie from Zenira Camp and I think 1 long-sleeve shirt along with several t-shirts and some linen pants.  2° south of the equator in my mind meant hot.  What I didn’t take into consideration was the altitude.  The days were warm but breezy and once the sun went down it got downright chilly, even dipping into the mid-’40s (Fahrenheit) at night.  This might be a good place to add that along with no running water, there was no heating and cooling system…and electricity could be sketchy along with cellular service.  Before you ask, yes I was aware of the living conditions and somehow that actually enhanced the experience.

Stew with eggplant, carrots and potatoes

The other volunteers were busy doing things around the school, but I was given a hearty meal of chapati, potatoes, and a type of stew.  After which the ladies who work there insisted I empty my suitcase so they could clean it along with any clothes I wanted to be washed.  Everything is washed by hand even though they have a washing machine.  They have no running water to hook it up and are hoping that will change in the near future.  Next, a young girl showed up with a bucket of hot water so I could “shower” after my dusty journey.  Around the dinner table that evening I had the chance to meet all the volunteers and they filled me in on what was happening and what to expect the next day.

One of the buildings of the school

I woke up on the last day of August 2022, to a cool, breezy, partly cloudy day.  We would spend the day preparing the classrooms and dormitories for the return of the children.

My world map task

My task for the day was to paint a world map on the wall of one of the classrooms.  Others were painting desks and chairs, measuring windows for replacement glass, and organizing the dormitories.  Part of the arrangement with WorkAway is that in exchange for room and board, you volunteer 3-4 hours per day during the weekdays.  Many WorkAways provide room and board at no cost to the volunteers.  At BEMS, we were asked to contribute the equivalent of $5.00, or about 12,000 Tanzanian shillings per day.  All of this was funneled back into the school and also helps cover the cost of food for the volunteers.  To put that into perspective, the school spends approximately 280,000 shillings per day to feed about 300 children, staff, and volunteers.  This is the equivalent of $120.00.

The kitchen for the school. They feed 300+ from here

Whereas the children ate basically the same thing every day (porridge in the morning and rice and beans for lunch and dinner), the volunteers often got fresh fruit (oranges, bananas, watermelons, and avocados), spaghetti, rice, potatoes, and sometimes stew, and always chapati.  It didn’t change much over the 2 weeks I spent there. Even contributing my $5 per day, I sometimes felt guilty about the food we received compared to the staff and children.

Sometime over the course of the day, I was approached by Lidia and asked if I was interested in going on a safari to the Serengeti the next day.  Since the children wouldn’t be arriving until the weekend, it would be the perfect opportunity.  The owners of the school, Baraka and Juliana Eliud also have a safari business, https://astrosafaris.com/.

Not only does BEMS sit 2°south of the equator, but it is 120 km (75 miles) from Serengeti National Park.  I mentioned in an earlier post one of my reasons for choosing Bright English Medium School for my WorkAway was its location in regard to the Serengeti.  Baraka offers this opportunity to volunteers at a rate much lower than you would expect to pay as a “regular” tourist.  Again, after his expenses, (gas, etc.) all the money is put back into the school.  On top of the fee we paid to Astro Safari, we also paid an entrance fee at the park, and we divided the cost of entrance for Baraka and his assistant (less than ours as they are residents) between the 4 of us that went. I know many people go on weeklong safaris, but our one day was more than I ever imagined.

Our day started at 05:00.  Even though it is only 120 km to Klein’s Gate, where we would start our safari, it was about a two-hour journey over dirt roads and paths.  It is an exit or entry point near the northeastern border of Serengeti National Park. Completely remote, it is utilized by those going to or coming from the Loliondo game-controlled area, a rural Maasai territory — with lake Natron on the eastern end.  The gate and the route are seldom used due to it being remote and the Loliondo route being uncharted territory.  Still, part of the area is a wildebeest migration route.

We witnessed a glorious sunrise and before we even made it to the official entrance to the park, we had wildebeest cross right in front of us.  It was still part of the great migration season and seeing herds, properly known as a confusion, of wildebeest, was a remarkable sight.

Near to Klein’s Gate, we spotted a lion (bull) and two lionesses lolling in the grass.  We stopped for several minutes just to gaze and then continued on to enter the park.  Inside Klein’s Gate, we parked our safari vehicle, paid our fees, and then at a picnic table enjoyed coffee and chapati prepared for us by the school.  When we finished Baraka had spoken to the park ranger and we decided to go back to where we saw the lions.  Inside the park, you are not permitted to exit the paths designated for vehicles, but the lions were outside the boundaries of the park and Baraka was going to go off-road and see if we could get close to them.

 

Well, they were still there when we got back, and as promised Baraka got us practically within petting distance.  We were within about five meters of the beautiful creatures.  They completely ignored us, and we got amazing photos but spent most of the time staring in awe.  Finally, we decided, we need to move on as we hadn’t even entered the Serengeti.  Little did we know what the day had in store for us.

The Serengeti ecosystem is a geographical region in Africa, spanning northern Tanzania.  The protected area within the region includes approximately 30,000 km2 (12,000 sq mi) of land, including the Serengeti National Park and several game reserves. The Serengeti hosts the second largest terrestrial mammal migration in the world, which helps secure it as one of the Seven Natural Wonders of Africa, and as one of the ten natural travel wonders of the world.  The Serengeti is also renowned for its large lion population and is one of the best places to observe the prides in their natural environment.

Over the course of the day, we saw many simbas (simba is Swahili for lion) including a pride of about 15 and a mother with 2 young cubs frolicking in the grass.  Later on in the day, we had a lioness walk alongside our vehicle for quite a ways. So close I could have reached out and touched her.  Leaving the park, the lions we saw first thing in the morning were still there.  Then several minutes down the road, we spotted another lioness who appeared to be hunting.

It seemed like zebras were everywhere.  I couldn’t stop watching them and photographing them.  Luckily our driver had no problem pulling over and letting us just gaze. Also, our guide took some of my photos/videos so I could just watch. It is utterly amazing seeing them wander the savannah of the Serengeti.  There were even some that wandered around the fields by the school.

In the vast plains of Serengeti National Park, the annual migration of two million wildebeests plus hundreds of thousands of gazelles and zebras is one of the most impressive nature spectacles in the world. The biological diversity of the park is very high with at least four globally threatened or endangered animal species: black rhinoceros, elephant, wild dog, and cheetah.

You can’t even imagine the number of wildebeest.  To see them run across a field is a sight to behold.   The 800-kilometer trek of the immense wildebeest herd is the largest mammal migration on earth. It is of the most sought-after experiences for wildlife and nature enthusiasts, the Great Migration is the ever-moving circular migration of over a million animals across the Serengeti-Mara ecosystem.  The ecosystem supports two million wildebeests, 900,000 Thomson’s gazelles, and 300,000 zebras as the dominant herds.

We didn’t see that many giraffes up close and personal. But when you are very near you can’t help but be astounded by their size.  Vulnerable due to an observed population decline of 36–40% over three generations (30 years, 1985–2015). The factors causing this decline (direct killing and habitat loss) have not ceased throughout the species’ range. The best available estimates indicate a total population in 1985 of 151,702–163,452 giraffes (106,191–114,416 mature individuals) and in 2015 a total population of 97,562 giraffes (68,293 mature individuals).  These elegant animals need around 30 to 60 kilograms of vegetables or leaves a day. Since they are quite choosy about their diet, they spend up to 14 hours a day eating. They have plenty of time because giraffes sleep just one hour a day!

We had several up-close encounters with the world’s largest land animal. Although our first sighting was a lone elephant in the distance on a hill. Even from a distance, it looked massive.  Our second encounter was when one crossed the road directly in front of our vehicle. All I could do was watch.  Which is why I only have a photo of the elephant’s butt. Then we got to be up close with several frolicking with a couple of young elephants too.

Elephant populations in Serengeti National Park have increased from 6,000 in 2014 to more than 7,000 in 2020, according to the Tanzania Wildlife Research Institute (TAWIRI).  African savanna elephants are the largest species of elephant and the biggest terrestrial animal on Earth. They are easily distinguished by their very large ears—which allow them to radiate excess heat—and front legs which are noticeably longer than the hind legs. It’s the world’s largest land animal, and seeing one in its natural habitat is simply thrilling.

The buffalo is considered one of the “big five” in the Serengeti. The term “Big Five” originally referred to the difficulty in hunting the lion, leopard, rhino, elephant, and African buffalo. These five large African mammal species were known to be dangerous and it was considered a feat by trophy hunters to bring them home.  The Buffalo is among the most dangerous species of animals in Africa, with only a few predators, like lions.  It is believed, that there are over 30,000 Buffalo in the Serengeti.

We came across several pools of hippos.  The Hippopotamus is a two-ton, amphibious tank of Africa and the third-largest land mammal on Earth (elephants first, rhinos second).  These rotund, water-loving behemoths can grow the length of an adult giraffe and can weigh over twice the size of an average sedan. Often found lounging in mud baths of their own refuse, hippos are not to be messed with.  The hippopotamus is a name of Greek derivation suggesting them as a “water horse,” but hippos are far from equestrian. In fact, they might just be the strangest and most dangerous animal you will witness on safari, half-submerged sixteen hours a day along rivers in their groups, or “bloats,” of 10-20 hippos.

We spent 10 hours exploring the park.  Although we didn’t see all of “the big five”, it was an awe-inspiring experience with the landscape being as captivating as the wildlife.  The landscape of the Serengeti is mostly savannah.  The savannah consists of grasslands, plains, kopjes, marshes, and woodlands.  I was surprised by the diversity of the landscape which seemed to change every 20 minutes.  Seeing the iconic umbrella acacia on the open savannah was beyond description.  The day exceeded all expectations.  Making our way out of the park at the end of the day, watching the sunset, and noticing giraffes behind the trees with the 3 lions still lounging underneath will be forever etched in my mind.  Arriving back at the school I had trouble settling down for the night as I replayed the day before falling into an African dream.

Slept in a bit on Friday as there were no kids at the school yet.  Sipping my coffee, still thinking about my safari it was soon time to continue work on the classrooms and dormitories.  Soon Lidia came around and asked if anyone wanted to go to the Maasai Market.  I jumped on the opportunity.

It is a weekly market where Maasai people from villages all over the area including Kenya gather to buy and sell goods and cattle. Currently, about 80% of the students at the school are Maasai.  The Maasai are semi-nomadic people located primarily in Kenya and northern Tanzania. The Maasai are cattle and goat herders, and their economy is almost exclusively based on their animal stock, from which they take most of their food: meat, milk, and even blood, as certain sacred rituals involve the drinking of cow blood. Moreover, the huts of the Maasai are built from dried cattle dung.  Despite the growth of modern civilization, the Maasai have largely managed to maintain their traditional ways, although this becomes more challenging each year. The ability to graze their cattle over large territories, for example, has diminished considerably in recent years, due to increased urbanization and the declaration of the Maasai Mara and Serengeti game reserves, which were all formerly Maasai grazing land.

The weekend arrived and students began to trickle in.  And we kept busy playing with the children and continuing work around the school.  One of the current projects going on at the school is building a new toilet and shower room for the boys’ dormitory. I had a chance to chat with the young man who is making the concrete blocks one at a time. He told me if needed he could produce up to 300 blocks per day. He has been doing this type of work for 4 years. The blocks he was working on were for the sewage/septic tank.  Maybe because my brother deals a lot with the concrete industry, I was fascinated by the making of the blocks which take about a week to dry.  The weekend flew by in a flurry of activity and on Sunday night the children had a small worship service in the dormitory.  Monday brought even more children to the school and I was spending my days in the preschool classroom teaching the littlest one’s songs and dances.

Soon the “Hello Friends” song I taught them was heard all over the school grounds.  Another favorite was “Baby Shark”….not mine…theirs. Somehow the week disappeared.  I want to point out that there are no televisions at the school, and children don’t have cell phones or tablets.  Free time is spent jumping rope, kicking a mostly flat soccer ball around the school grounds, and just having fun.  My days were filled with smiles and laughter.  I had my laptop with me and downloaded several movies.

The next time you think you need a larger television screen, think about these kids (at one point about 60), crammed around my little computer screen watching “Lion King”.  I eventually went into the small village and bought a small Bluetooth speaker so they could at least hear the sound a bit better. At the close of every school day, while some were waiting on the school bus, it was the same plea….Can we watch “King Lion”?  Yes, they got it backward but every day my answer was, “of course, we can watch it”. Being in a remote area the evenings gave us epic sunsets and chilly nights.

How did the weekend get here?  I had Saturday morning classes with the littles.  The weekends were also cleaning up time.  All the kids who lived at the school, washed their clothes (by hand), and hung them on lines or on bushes to dry.  While the clothes were drying, they polished their shoes and played some soccer in between.  I took a couple of nice walks on the roads around the school and bumped into some Maasai men tending their herds.  I noticed the ground was full of crystal-like rocks, so I picked up a few to bring back with me.

The children put on a worship service Sunday morning complete with empty water bottles on overturned buckets for drums.  The singing, dancing, and drumming were as good as any church service I attended.

The next thing I knew, my time at the school was over.  If there is one thing I have learned during my travels, it is that goodbyes are never easy.  It was time to make my rounds and say not only goodbye but thank you to the beautiful people who had become part of my life, my journey, and my memories these last two weeks. It has been an unforgettable experience.  The happiness and love I felt there was almost indescribable, but I think you can see it in everyone’s eyes and smiles and you will understand.

My wonderful host and owners of the school presented me with a lovely letter and certificate but also a Maasai shuka which I will treasure.  I was blessed with one last beautiful sunset. I had to be up the next morning at 5am to catch my bus for the 9-hour journey to Arusha followed by an hour taxi ride to my hotel in Kilimanjaro. I won’t be sad because it’s over, but happy because it happened. So, lala salama, and on to the next chapter.

Somehow, after everything I experienced the last few weeks, not only at BEMS but also at the Giraffe Lodge, made the long, hot, dusty, crowded, often uncomfortable bus ride was not too bad.  I arrived in Arusha around 2:30 in the afternoon.  Max, my driver,  picked me up at the bus station in Arusha and it was a bit over an hour’s drive to my adorable guest house, Le Parlour which is near Kilimanjaro. I was greeted by Mama Angela, the proprietor who showed me around and made sure I had hot water for a much-needed shower.  My first “real” shower in almost 3 weeks. It was heavenly.  She then asked if I would like an early dinner so I could have a relaxing evening. She told me to be at the little red bungalow at 18:00. I was served way too much food…chicken, pasta, greens, veggies, and of course chapati. I told her I liked spicy food so she made sure her homemade chili sauce was there for me. I also met her daughter Eileen, who made all my arrangements to get from Arusha (Max had my name on a placard and whisked me away) to their guest house. I am sipping a G&T and can hear someone strumming a guitar outside. I think it will be an early night with my Kindle. No plans for tomorrow so I will just see what it brings.

After a wonderful sleep, it is my last full day in Tanzania.  Eileen and Mama Angela prepared a beautiful breakfast. Chapati with avocado and scrambled eggs with homemade chili sauce, coffee, and freshly squeezed juice. My plan was to just relax and then take a walk.  Which is exactly what I did.  I will settle for seeing Kilimanjaro from the distance.

I spent the last of my Tanzanian shilling in the gift shop at the airport and then found out I could have a cheeseburger and a glass of South African Chenin Blanc….life is indeed good.  Taking off for Ethiopia, our pilot made sure to give both sides of the plane an up-close view of Kilimanjaro.  It was an amazing time in Tanzania, but I was ready to get back home to Warsaw.

 

It really was a lifetime experience and thanks to each and every one of you that followed. Again…count your blessings! Then remember these kids, remember how happy they seemed. I rarely saw them without smiles, they were happy with their meals and thankful for the time the volunteers spend with them. Maybe it is really them that are blessed.  Peace my friends.

“Once you carry your own water, you will learn the value of every drop.”

Year in Review 2022 ~ Life is Short…I Want to Live it Well!

Year in Review 2022 ~ Life is Short…I Want to Live it Well!

A mere 4 days until 2023.  As usual, I am staring at a blank page pondering my prose.  Not to mention, I have part 3 of my Tanzania story still unfinished.  I have a very quiet week, but somehow, the more time I have the less I accomplish.  I guess I work best under pressure.

For the last few years, I have written my year-in-review blog and put together a slide show set to music.  This year I ran across a song by Switchfoot which I had never heard, but it has quickly become my mantra.  Here are a few lines to see where my head is:  “Life is short; I wanna live it well.  One life, one story to tell.  Life is short; I wanna live it well.”  As the year 2022 got closer, the phrase “life is short” entered my mind at least weekly, if not daily.  2022 was going to be a tough one for me.  In August 2022, I would turn 60.  I’m sure you are all saying things like it’s just a number, you don’t seem like you are 60 (trust me my body feels it some days), and all those other things you say when someone mentions “an age”.  Why was 60 going to be a rough time for me?

22 years ago, at the age of 60, my mom died after a long, hard battle with Primary Sclerosing Cholangitis.  She fought a good battle, but DAMN, she was only 60, that’s the number I will reach this year.  It’s tough wrapping my head around that.  I am now the same age my mom was when she died an ugly death.  So yeah, “life is short, and I definitely want to live it well.”

Without further ado…here’s my story which starts where last year finished.  You are an important part of my journey and I hope you found Peace, Love, Light, and Lots of Laughter in 2022.  And mom, this year was for you.  Especially my time with those kids at Bright English Medium School in Loliondo Tanzania.  When my brother looked at my photos and heard my stories, what he said to me was the greatest compliment anyone could give.  He said, “you are our mother’s daughter for sure”.  I could feel her emotions and her presence.  I have one life and hopefully, my life is my story.

January kicked off with friends next door at the Tapas Bar, some fireworks, and bubbles.  Next, it was Tamara’s birthday and we met for dinner at a great restaurant, Warszawa Wschodnia, in the Praga District of Warsaw.  It had a very cool whale tail piano.  January 6th, Epiphany, or a day my mom called “Little Christmas”.  Epiphany is also called Feast of Epiphany and Three Kings Day.  It marks the day when the three wise men or kings went to visit baby Jesus.  In Warsaw, there is a large parade of kings.

It is a reenactment of the nativity and the three kings on camels ride from Old Town to Plac Marszalka Jozefa Pilsudkiego.  Thousands of people follow the parade with the kings.  It was quite a sight to behold as I walked the route with the throngs.  January was quickly turning to February.

February found me starting my own company in Poland called Language Nomad and I could freelance as an English teacher.  In Poland, we celebrate Tłusty Czwartek or Fat Thursday (not Tuesday).  It is the last Thursday before Ash Wednesday.  It is also playfully known as “pączki day”.  This is because across Poland more than 100 million pączki (traditional donuts filled with rose or plum jam) are consumed.  I decided I needed to get my pączki from one of the most famous bakeries in Warsaw.  I knew people wait in line to get these delectable treats, but little did I know I would wait in line for nearly 3 hours.  Wednesday morning, I set off for the bakery.  When I got off the tram, I saw a line around the corner of a building and knew I was at the right place.  What I didn’t know was that there were 3 “corners” to go around.

After 30 minutes, I was happy to make the first turn, happy until I made the turn and saw that I had a ways to go.  I decided I had already invested this much time; I may as well stick it out.  On a side note, it was also drizzling rain but warmish. When I finally got in sight of the door, and thankfully there had been a coffee shop along the way so I had a double espresso, I discovered why the line moved so slowly.  First, the shop was so small only 2 people could enter at a time.  Second, there was a limit to how many of the 3.50-zloty (about 80 cents) pączki you could buy.  I figured it would be a limit of a dozen, but NOOOOO.

Everyone could purchase 40, you read that right, FORTY!!!  It seemed everyone was buying the limit.  Well, after nearly 3 hours wait, I wasn’t about to buy 1 pączek (the singular of pączki) and leave, so I took a dozen.  Was it worth the wait?  Put it this way, I probably wouldn’t wait 3 hours again, they were delicious, and it is all about the experience, but now I can say, “been there, done that”.

Tłusty Czwartek also coincided with the Russian invasion of Ukraine and the start of the current war.  The influx of refugees into Poland started almost immediately.  The last weekend in February I attended a demonstration in front of the Russian Embassy protesting the war and Putin.  I went with my flatmate, Zaka, and it is an experience I won’t forget.  Across Poland, people were coming together to help the 100’s thousands of mostly women and children crossing into Poland.  By the beginning of March, Poland had already accepted 500,000 refugees.  At its height, this number would rise to over 3 million with the population in Warsaw increasing by 17%.  The month of March was an emotional roller coaster.  My eyes were opened to things I never thought about.  Things I can’t imagine ever going through myself.  I met people who had no idea what their future would look like.  I witnessed humanity and compassion that I thought didn’t exist anymore.

During my first year in Poland, I was always searching for interesting things to do.  I happened to discover Pinball Station; an interactive museum established in 2016 by 2 hobbyists.  One evening, as I was scrolling, I saw a post by Paweł, one of the founders of the museum.  It read (translated version),  “To everyone who wants to help refugees.  Pinball Station has launched a coach bridge between the border and Warsaw.  I, Paweł Nowak, have personally been to the border 5 times.  We have coaches and drivers available.  Today at 5 am we transported another 48 people.  In total, it is already about 150 people transported in two days.  We ask you to help raise money for the next transport.  Out of 150 people transported, there were only a few men, the rest were women and children, even babies.  I am determined, I am in constant contact with foreign countries, and we are looking for accommodation and further transport for them.  Please help.”  I had been going to the train station to volunteer whenever I could, but when I saw Pawel’s post almost simultaneously I received a message from a travel friend asking if they could send money to me and I could make sure it was put to good use.  Soon, without even asking, other friends were contacting me with the same question.  I was also contacted by my hometown newspaper, The Tribune Chronicle asking about life in Poland during the war.  I told them my story up until that point and that I planned to return to the train station the next day to help.

I had no idea the tidal wave that was about to hit.  They published an article, “Drive to Save Lives”.   Within a few days, I received over $13,000 in contributions to Pawel’s efforts.  This money was not only used to transport refugees, but it helped purchase ambulances that were sent to Ukraine, and food for the shelters.

March quickly turned into April, and I was fortunate to meet up with a friend from my hometown who was in Warsaw with the International Red Cross helping with the war effort.  We only had time for lunch and a short visit, but it’s always great to see someone from “home”.   Also in April, I was contacted by a good friend who told me he had given my phone number to a woman from his church.  Soon I was contacted by a member of her family explaining that they had a grandson who had escaped from Kharkiv Ukraine with his mother and grandmother.  Lana and her son had both been wounded by bullets and shrapnel with Lana requiring surgery when she arrived in Warsaw.

They were trying to get to the United States.  I visited them several times while they were waiting on a visa appointment for the grandmother.  The stories they told me were unbelievable.  I’m happy to report that after 4 months, all documents were in order, and they were able to make it to the United States near the end of June.

April brought me the sad news of the death of one of my young students at Yayasan Widya Guna school for special needs in Bali.  I had an opportunity to go with Pawel to see the ambulances which had been purchased and were ready to head to Ukraine along with medical supplies, body bags, and food staples.  Even seeing what all Pawel was still doing, deep down, it was feeling like the war was becoming just a normal part of daily life. Myself, I was headed to Paris for a two-week holiday with my friend Cathy.   Sadly, the war would be all but forgotten as I enjoyed the sights and sounds of Paris and beyond.  I took her to all my favorite places in Montmartre and a few others around the city.  We even discovered a few new places and traveled to Moulin, France, and St. Genevieve des Bois to visit sights associated with Rudolf Nureyev.  We even managed a day trip to Amsterdam.

One of the highlights of the trip was meeting up with Lenore.  I met Lenore online through a fellow Kiwanian in Warren Ohio, Leonard, who was in Paris during WWII and shared my love of the city.  I had only met Lenore through Facebook, but her Panther Organization was in Paris to visit WWII sights and travel to Normandy.  After many years of Facebook exchanges, and the death of Leonard, we were finally going to meet face-to-face along with Cathy and members of her group.  What an evening that was on the steps of Sacre Coeur.   As we watched the sun go down, listened to buskers, laughed, cried, and sipped Calvados, Leonard’s words of wisdom were in the back of my mind, “beware of the Calvados”.  Truer words were never spoken.  I will leave it at that.  The two-week holiday flew by, and I think I have another Paris convert, right, Cathy?

Arriving back in Warsaw in mid-May, spring was in the air.  The month ended with a whirlwind of activity, meeting with friends, wrapping up the school semester, and getting plans settled to head to Bulgaria in June.  I saw Lana, Anton, and Lidia one more time to say goodbye and wish them well as they started a new life in the USA.  The highlight of my year took place one weekend before I headed to Bulgaria, I have no photos because I just enjoyed the company of my brother and sister-in-law who came to Warsaw to visit me.  I was thrilled to show them the city I currently call home.  We walked all over, ate good food, shared some wine, took in a Chopin concert in Lazienki Park, and just savored our time together.  On June 22,

I boarded a plane to Burgas, Bulgaria on the Black Sea to spend the next 8 weeks working at Zenira Language Camp in Kiten.  Life at camp never stops, it’s exhausting, exhilarating, and sometimes frustrating, but always rewarding.  You make it to the end of the first 2-week session, take a breath and the next thing you know, it’s mid-August and you are saying your goodbyes.  Somewhere during the period of June – August, I planned for my next big adventure. I also quietly celebrated that number…six-zero.

“You will never understand the true meaning of your life until you travel and experience how others are living theirs!”

I don’t know who to credit for this quote, but it sums up my most recent experience in Arusha Tanzania but most especially at Bright English Medium School. I knew I didn’t want to return directly to Warsaw as the new semester kicks off at the beginning of October.  Last year after camp I flew to Cairo to experience the pyramids.  Then I decided to head to Casablanca and Marrakech Morocco.  Both were exhilarating journeys that fueled my soul.  I tossed around a few possibilities, including a return to Egypt for Valley of the Kings or India but I didn’t have a specific destination, and finally Kenya and Tanzania.

In my dreams, I didn’t have visions of sugar plums, not even lions, tigers, and bears, but baobabs, zebras, elephants, giraffes, and epic sunsets behind massive acacia trees.  Another visit to Egypt and a trip to India would have to wait, so I narrowed it down to Kenya and Tanzania.  During my research, I remembered I had joined an online community a few years ago called WorkAway.  The thing that finally tipped the scales to Bright English Medium School was the quote, “go big or go home”.  To me, going big was the Serengeti.  BEMS (Bright English Medium School) mentioned their proximity to the Serengeti in their host write-up.  Soon I was messaging back and forth with Juliana and Lydia from BEMS and the next thing I knew; I pulled the trigger on a one-way plane ticket to Arusha from Sofia Bulgaria.  But, before I headed to Sofia, I took a train from Burgas to Veliko Tarnova to visit friends who had come to the USA as high school students nearly 20 years ago.  After a couple days of visiting with them, I boarded another train to Sofia and my African adventure was about to begin.

Sofia to Doha Qatar and then an overnight flight to Zanzibar Island Tanzania…landing on Zanzibar Island would give me a new stamp in my passport and tick country number 41.  I had a 5-hour layover on Zanzibar before flying to Arusha on the mainland.  After breakfast and my first taste of chapati,  I found a driver and for a fee, he took me on an island tour.  Made it back and boarded my prop plane for the mainland. I landed in Arusha and went to get my luggage and that’s when I discovered it didn’t make it.  That’s a whole other story and you can read about it here.  You can also read about my crazy bus ride to Massai Eco Giraffe Lodge where I would be spending 3 nights.  The bus ride even had a live chicken.  It was 4.5 hours across hot dusty terrain with no real roads and then we were stopped at the border to the National Park area, and I was asked to get off the bus like I said another story and you can read about it at the link.  I will say, I was in awe looking out the window and seeing massive baobabs and giraffes and zebras wandering freely.

Luggage-less, I made it to the Giraffe Lodge, my home for the next 4 days.  The lodge is an oasis in the middle of nowhere. It was heavenly.  You pay an activity fee to the lodge which then provides you with a Maasai guide who takes you on a trek and introduces you to the Maasai culture.  My guide was Timan and you can read about my adventures with him, here.  At least I can say my life is never boring.

My luggage did arrive and before I knew it, it was time for another crazy bus ride to Wasso/Loliondo Tanzania for my WorkAway at Bright English Medium School.  BEMS is in a remote area of Northern Tanzania, in the heart of Maasai country and on the edge of the Serengeti.  Two days after my arrival at the school, our host arranged to take us on a safari in the Serengeti.

There were six other volunteers when I arrived and 4 of us chose to go on the safari.  It was a dream come true.  We paid a small fee in comparison to other safaris and the money would be put right back into the school. The children many of whom live at the school hadn’t returned for the new semester when I arrived.  With a WorkAway, you volunteer a few hours a day in return for room and board.  Before the children arrived, we spent our time painting classrooms.

After they arrived, I spent my time in the kindergarten classroom teaching English.  The school had no running water, which meant we took bucket showers and flushed toilets with buckets of water.  Electricity was sometimes spotty so having a power bank and charging all devices whenever possible was a must. The nearest village was a 30–40-minute walk.  Luckily I was able to catch a ride if I needed anything from the shops.  I am still writing my blog about my experience there, but I will say it was one of the most rewarding things I have ever done.  I was sad to see my time there come to an end, but I needed to get back to Warsaw to prepare for the new school year.  I said my goodbyes the night before as I had to be by the side of the road at 05:30 for the bus to pick me up for a 9+ hour ride back to Arusha.  Once in Arusha, I had arranged for a car to take me to my homestay in Kilimanjaro.  I spent 2 relaxing days before catching a flight to Addis Ababa Ethiopia, to Stockholm Sweden, and home sweet home to Warsaw.

Back in Warsaw in mid-September, I took some time to relax, regroup and reflect on my whirlwind summer.  At the beginning of October, I was with my Nepalese friends as they celebrated Dashain, a Hindu holiday that symbolizes the victory of good over evil.  The school semester started up and the rest of the month was quiet.

November 1st in Poland is All Saints Day, and it is celebrated by going to the cemetery and placing mums and lighting candles at the graves of loved ones.  It is a very important holiday, and the cemeteries are a sight to behold.  November 11th is Polish Independence Day and along with Tamara, I attended the Independence Day March. The rest of the month was quiet which was just letting me breath before my crazy December started.

December kicked off with me showing the cousin of one of my friends around Warsaw.  She was in town to give a seminar and in a couple short days we had a Lebanese dinner, drinks at the Panorama Bar overlooking the city, walked all over Old Town, watched the changing of the guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, took in the Christmas lights on the evening of the official lighting and walked the royal route.  Being from the south of the USA, the snowy, cold weather in Warsaw called for extra coffee stops.

I said goodbye to Patty and on December 5th boarded a flight to Amsterdam to meet a friend from Florida.  Maribeth and I spent the day and evening wandering the streets, taking a canal cruise, and walking the Red-Light District.  The next morning we boarded a flight to Krakow.  Staying in Old Town, we wandered the Christmas Market and ate dinner al fresco.  The next day we took a tour of Auschwitz and Auschwitz Birkenau before catching the late train back to Warsaw.

The next few snowy days were spent going all over Warsaw and then taking a weekend day trip to Gdansk for the Christmas Market and a boat ride to Westerplatte, the location of the first battle between Polish and German troops and the start of WWII.  We ended her visit with a trip to the Garden of Light at Wilianow Palace.

Maribeth left on the 13th and on the 15th I boarded a plane to meet my friend Guy, who I worked with for 2 summers at Zenira Camp, in Paris.  We spent 4 days walking 8-10 miles per day all over the city.  We had mad fun at an Ice Bar and even found two ladies that I first met back in 2013.  I’m not sure how I fall more in love with Paris with each visit.  Back to Warsaw in time for Christmas.  I made a turkey and celebrated with friends.

Here it is the eve of the new year…2023!  I am about to open a bottle of prosecco and share a toast with my flatmate Zaka and his friend Tarlan.  Then we are off to a birthday/New Year party, and we will hit the streets with fireworks and sparklers for midnight.  Na zdrowie!  Thank you all for having a part in my journey.  The messages, cards, and video chats are meaningful, and I cherish every interaction.  Life is short….Live it well!