Turkey or Türkiye or officially Türkiye Cumhuriyeti was never high on my “bucket list”. Although locals aren’t sure what difference it would make, “Turkey” officially changed its name via the UN in December 2021. The rebranding of the country was to dissociate it from the bird of the same name and negative connotations (per Cambridge Dictionary: as ‘something that fails badly’ or ‘a stupid or silly person’) associated with it. I rather like the way it looks and is pronounced, but regardless of that, I never really thought much about visiting Türkiye. Even though I loved the photos I had seen from Cappadocia of the hot air balloons, it just wasn’t on my travel radar. It’s a good thing because during the 3 days I spent in Cappadocia, the balloons were grounded. How did I end up spending 11 days in Türkiye?
I knew I was spending most of the summer in Bulgaria. I have 2 flatmates from Azerbaijan, and we thought about meeting up in Baku after I finished camp. Going to Baku from Bulgaria meant flying through Istanbul. I of course thought why not spend a few days in Türkiye on my way…long story short, Azerbaijan didn’t work out and I decided to go to Türkiye for 11 days. This decision was made around the first of August, so I needed to get busy and book a ticket to Istanbul, find a place to stay, and do a little research. Ticket booked from Sofia to Istanbul for August 24th and Airbnb booked in Balat for August 24th – 31st. Return ticket to Warsaw booked from Istanbul for August 31st. As I started researching Istanbul I had to ask myself why it wasn’t on my travel radar. I also decided I needed to extend my stay so I could make a side trip somewhere in the country. I didn’t decide on Cappadocia until I was already in Istanbul but more on that later. I was able to change my return flight to Warsaw to September 3rd (my dear friend Teri was coming to Warsaw on the 6th) for a $20 change fee. I extended my Airbnb except for September 2nd as they were already booked. I found a small hotel (Lumina Boutique Hotel) about a 20-minute walk from the Spice Market and near the water to spend my last night in Istanbul.
I arrived in Istanbul at about 5 pm, needed to get through immigration, find a taxi and then it was about an hour to my Airbnb in the Balat district of the city. Did you know that Istanbul only became Istanbul in 1930? Before that, it was known as Constantinople, named after Constantine the Great. Not only that, but it is the world’s only transcontinental city. The western side of the Bosphorus Strait is in Europe and when you cross to the other side you are on the Asian continent. Balat is situated on the European side of the city and is a hidden gem but is also becoming the “new, hip” district. However, I chose to stay up the hill in a residential area off the beaten path. Now let’s talk about hills. Okay, Istanbul is known as the city of seven hills (this was Constantine the Great’s way of competing with Rome). I used to think Montmartre had hills. Well, let me tell you Istanbul and my neighborhood, make Montmartre’s hills seem like speedbumps, haha. Anyway, I arrived, made it to my cute little flat and the host pointed me up the hill to a small market where I could get water and some snacks. That hill and I got very friendly over the next 11 days.
After a good night’s sleep, I was ready to explore the city I knew little about. But first coffee! After a little research, I set off in search of The Velvet Café. Because I tend to chat it up with shopkeepers, I got waylaid at the Coffee Throne and enjoyed an iced latte (it was already quite hot even though it was early in the day) while talking with the owner. By now, I was starting to get a bit hungry and continued to the Velvet Café for a traditional Turkish breakfast. They seated me in a lovely garden area. If ever there was a time for mindfulness, it was then. The breakfast was a kaleidoscope of color and an explosion of flavor. I savored every bite…a perfect start to my Istanbul journey.
My host had told me that the public transportation in Istanbul was very tourist-friendly. If you know me, you know I have a love of Asia. Ferries are part of the public transport system, I decided to take a ferry from Fener in Balat to Üsküdar in the Asian part of Istanbul.
The ferry ride was perfect and what a great way to see how sprawling Istanbul is. With over 3000 mosques and a population of 15.8 million, it is the most populous city in Europe and the 15th largest in the world. I spent the afternoon strolling around Üsküdar stopping several times to sip iced coffee and people watch before catching the ferry back. I got off the ferry at a different port so I could walk around a bit more of Balat.
I was getting a bit hungry since my Turkish breakfast. It was not my intention to eat a cheeseburger and fries for my second meal in Türkiye, but how could I say no to a handsome “young Turk” who took the time to explain how to make Turkish coffee in a cezve or an ibrik using hot sand? It set me back 75 lira ($2.83) for a burger, fries, and a coke. I don’t normally drink Coke, but why does it taste better in those little glass bottles?
With no plan the next day, I headed up my hill to the bus stop (it only has 2 bus routes). I decided I would take whichever bus arrived first and that would be my destination. I took a wrong turn and ended up taking the long way around. I eventually saw 2 buses with the 2 numbers I was looking for, parked in front of a café. Note, I didn’t see a bus stop, but hey, maybe the café was the bus stop. I managed to explain I wanted to take one of the buses.
The shopkeeper told me 10 minutes, so I sat down with a bunch of men having coffee and ordered one for myself. Next thing I know one of the guys is motioning for me to get on the bus. So I jump on, scan my ticket, and take a seat. I’m the only one on the bus. Well, they didn’t tell me that the coffee shop wasn’t the actual bus stop. It was 20 meters down the road where we stopped and picked up more people.
It was bus 90B which would take me to Hagia Sophia, which is one of Istanbul’s most recognizable landmarks. Dating back to 325 when a temple was built on the site. What you see today is not the same temple. Fires in 404 and 532, then an earthquake in 532 caused significant damage. Despite this, most of today’s structure still dates to the 6th century.
I didn’t quite make it to my planned stop. Gazing out the window, we passed an “Uygur” restaurant. In my brain, the bells went off as that meant Lanzhou LaMian to me. So I hopped off the bus at its next stop and ended up eating noodles. Belly full of delicious noodles, I studied the map and discovered I could catch a tram (my favorite mode of transportation) to Hagia Sophia. Arriving at my destination, the queue to get in Hagia Sophia was extremely long. I realized it was Saturday and being midday it probably wasn’t the best time to visit. I would try again another day or night as I discovered it is open 24/7.
The Blue Mosque, also known by its official name, the Sultan Ahmed Mosque (Turkish: Sultan Ahmet Camii), is an Ottoman-era historical imperial mosque, and is in the same vicinity as HS, so I took a wander in that direction. As luck would have it, there was no queue, and I walked right in. It was constructed between 1609 and 1617 during the rule of Ahmed I and remains a functioning mosque today. Walking to catch a tram or a bus home, I was seduced by a window full of pistachio pastries and other Turkish delights. I took a table on the patio and ordered some food just so I could have dessert.
On the night I arrived, my host mentioned manti which is a type of dumpling mainly found in Turkish cuisine. The dumplings typically consist of a spiced meat mixture, usually lamb or ground beef, wrapped in a thin dough sheet which is then boiled or steamed. Mine came in a yogurt and butter sauce with aleppo pepper and spearmint. Of course, I ended with a pistachio dessert that I have no idea what it was called. Of course, I recognized the macaron. Hot and tired from my day, I was happy to get home to my flat, but that last hill was a bitch.
Decided to sleep in the next day, then catch up on some emails before heading out late afternoon to catch the sunset on the Bosphorus. The Bosporus or Bosphorus Strait is a natural strait and an internationally significant waterway located in Istanbul in northwestern Turkey that connects the Black Sea to the Sea of Marmara. It forms part of the continental boundary between Asia and Europe. It is the world’s narrowest strait used for international navigation. In the area of the Blue Mosque, I was chatting with a guy who convinced me to buy a ticket and take a boat ride to enjoy the sunset. I was not disappointed. It was beautiful watching the city light up as the sky looked like it was on fire.
After the boat ride, I walked along the water. There were vendors grilling fish and people enjoying the evening under a stunning, nearly full moon. It was about 9:30 pm when I headed up from the Bosphorus toward Hagia Sophia. I arrived just as there was a call to prayer. When I got to the entrance there was no line, and I was able to go in after the prayers.
Hagia Sophia, also called Church of the Holy Wisdom or Church of the Divine Wisdom, is an important Byzantine structure in Istanbul and one of the world’s great monuments. Hagia Sophia started as a church. Then it became a mosque for 500 years until 1934, then it became a museum until President Recep Tayyip Erdogan sanctioned the conversion of the building back into a mosque in 2016. It’s difficult to describe my feelings standing in a structure from the 6th century. Awestruck comes to mind along with wonder.
Leaving the Hagia Sophia, the sweet yet smoky aroma of grilled corn got the best of me, and I sat and ate an ear of corn looking back and forth between the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia…questioning why Istanbul wasn’t ever on my radar and thankful I made an impulsive decision to visit.
By now I have discovered I can get anywhere starting with one of the buses near my flat. By now, the guys at the café are used to seeing me in the morning. Sometimes I even get a type of muffin with my coffee. I am also becoming addicted to Turkish coffee.
I have decided that my next venture will be to the Grand Bazaar. It is the largest covered market in the world. It’s expanded a bit since opening in 1431, and now houses approximately 3,000 shops and covers 61 streets. I was a bit underwhelmed, to be honest. I was trying to find a way out because the surrounding streets were much more interesting. I also wandered to the Spice Market and got lost on side streets, stopped for coffee, and took in the local life.
As I mentioned earlier, I decided to extend my stay in Türkiye so I could take a side trip. Sometime after I arrived in Istanbul, I decided to fly to Kayseri and then take a shuttle to Göreme in the Cappadocia region of Türkiye, an Instagram-famous place for hot air balloons. I also decided to use the Havabus to the airport. This gave me a good reason to visit Taksim Square where I would need to catch the bus. It would be a bit of an adventure as I needed to go 15 minutes down my hill and catch a bus at 6 am to Taksim Square, then about a 10-minute walk to the bus stop and an hour to the airport.
The day before my trip I made a practice run to Taksim Square. It was an area I wanted to visit because they have a vintage tram that runs down Istiklal Street which is lined with shops and restaurants. It is also near the end of Istikal Street where you can find the Galata Tower. A watchtower that was built in 1348. Although I didn’t start at 6 am, I did make the practice run quite early. I arrived at Taksim Square with no problem and found an outdoor patio to have breakfast and Turkish coffee of course, before looking for the bus stop. I took my tram ride, then I saw a massage salon and popped in for a foot massage and then decided on a full body massage too. Why not? Being extremely relaxed I then stopped off for an ice-cold gin and tonic…Beefeaters too! Instead of catching the bus home, I walked to the water and took a ferry to Balat and then had the long trek up the hill.
The next morning went off without a hitch and before I knew it, I was eating dinner in a fairytale world. Göreme is well known for its “fairy chimneys” or hoodoos, eroded rock formations, many of which were hollowed out in the Middle Ages to create Christian churches, houses, and underground cities. It is believed that the first signs of monastic activity in Cappadocia date back to the 4th century. I booked a room in a cave hotel and had a lovely dinner and wine in a restaurant built in a fairy chimney.
I didn’t book a hot air balloon ride ( you need to be at the launch site at 4:30 am) but intended on watching them fly by while sitting on my rooftop drinking coffee closer to 6:30 am. I am glad I didn’t book a trip and head to the launch area bright and early. Why you ask? Because the days I was there they never launched due to weather conditions. I did get up the first morning and waited and waited and waited before discovering the launch had been canceled due to wind. It didn’t appear windy on my rooftop but, who knows? The next morning, I checked the website before getting out of bed. At about 10 am, I decided to walk to the Göreme Open Air Museum. It was already 93° heading to 100°.
The Göreme Open Air Museum is a unique historical site located in the Cappadocia region of Turkey. It was established in the 4th century AD as a monastic complex for Christians who were seeking refuge from persecution. The complex features several churches, chapels, and monasteries that were carved out of the soft volcanic rock that is found throughout the region. These structures served as important centers of religious and cultural activity for the Byzantine Christians who lived in Cappadocia from the 10th to the 12th centuries. The frescoes and other artwork found within the buildings are some of the best-preserved examples of Byzantine rock-cut architecture and art in the world. The frescoes depict scenes from the Bible and the life of Jesus and are notable for their intricate detail and vivid colors.
I’m glad I decided to take a quick trip to Göreme in Cappadocia. What a magical place. For my last night, I wanted to find a spectacular spot to sip some wine, watch the sunset, and enjoy an amazing meal. Again, I was not disappointed.
Back in Istanbul for a short day and a half. I needed to move out of my flat and spend my last night at a hotel on the water. Got settled at my hotel and went off in search of coffee. I found a nice outdoor café ordered my Turkish coffee and the waiter insisted I needed to try something called kunefe. It is made of kadaif pastry (looks like shredded wheat). Kadaif pastry is chopped, coated with melted butter, and placed in a pan. It is topped with some cheese and then another layer of kadayif pastry. It is slowly cooked on the stovetop and then drizzled with cooled simple syrup. Eaten hot so the cheese stays gooey. I was stuffed and I hadn’t tried lahmacun yet.
I wandered the streets around the Spice Market because I wanted to buy a cezve and some Turkish coffee. I also had to stop at one of the street vendors for freshly squeezed pomegranate juice. Having been on the go since June 22, I felt like I was hitting a wall and went back to my hotel where I crashed for 2 hours. After my much-needed nap, I went out in search of lahmacun.
Lahmacun is a flatbread topped with minced meat (most commonly beef or lamb), minced vegetables, and herbs including onions, garlic, tomatoes, red peppers, and parsley, flavored with spices such as chili pepper and paprika then baked. I chose a random place on the map and the young man serving told me the kasarli lahmacun was the best…so that and a Pepsi was my choice. It’s sometimes called a Turkish pizza and it does resemble one, but it has a flavor all its own. The other thing is you roll it up to eat. Can’t go wrong for $3 for a Pepsi and kasarli lahmacun. As it was my last night, I wandered the streets and thought about how I was glad I decided to come to Türkiye. Istanbul, big, chaotic, colorful, and mesmerizing was much more than I expected.
Couldn’t leave Türkiye without another cup of Turkish coffee and Turkish delight…also waited for the shop across the way to open so I could eat lahmacun again before I headed to the airport…cutting it close, but…if you aren’t living life on the edge, you’re taking up too much space or in the words of Jimmy Buffett, “It’s important to have as much fun as possible while we’re here. It balances out the times when the minefield of life explodes.”
Down the Rabbit Hole 