Conversations with the World

Conversations with the World

Curiosity has always been my compass, carrying me across continents, into classrooms, markets, hammams, alleyways, and long bus rides where strangers become stories. As a traveling English teacher, I’ve found myself asking the following questions again and again. Sometimes to spark a lesson and sometimes to open a door. My students’ answers, shaped by age and English level, are always surprising and honest reminders of how universal we all are. Travel has taught me that our lives may look different, but our hearts are remarkably similar. My inspiration for this came from the “Twenty Questions to the World” project started in France in 2017. Some questions are of my own invention and some borrowed from the original project. These aren’t just questions; they’re conversations with the world, one voice at a time.

Before sharing my own answers, I’ve listed the questions first so you can pause, wander a bit through your own memories, and discover what your heart might say in return. Some questions might feel simple, others more profound but each is an invitation to pause, reflect, and explore your own story.

  1. What three adjectives would you use to describe yourself?
  2. What does happiness mean to you?
  3. Who would you like to have coffee with?
  4. What do you need?
  5. What are you afraid of?
  6. If you could teach one thing to every child in every school in the world, what would it be?
  7. If you could re-live one moment in your life, what would it be?
  8. What do you think is your purpose in life?
  9. What does religion mean to you?
  10. What is the best thing about being you?
  11. What song defines you?
  12. What does “home” feel like to you?
  13. What is your dream?
  14. What is your favorite color and how does it make you feel?
  15. What is the main characteristic common to all people on earth?
  16. Who is the happiest person in the world?
  17. What was the best era of your life?
  18. If you could participate in one historical event, what would it be?
  19. What is your favorite way to relax?
  20. What question would you ask the world?

Wendy’s Answers 

  1. What three adjectives would you use to describe yourself?                             Curious, Optimistic, Harmonious
  1. What does happiness mean to you?

To me happiness is freedom, presence, purpose, and connection. It is the freedom of the unknown. Not knowing what is next, yet trusting that I have a purpose. It’s the hope that somewhere along the way I might make a difference.

It is the connection I share with strangers who become friends, the cultures that make me feel at home, the kindness that crosses languages, and the faces that stay with me long after I have moved on.

It is the presence of being in the moment because a day from now or a week from now or a year from now everything will have changed. It is appreciating the moment and also the in between times of what was and what is next.

Happiness isn’t the destination. It is the journey itself, the moments that connect that are guided by purpose, having the freedom of choice, to move, to feel, to simply be.

  1. Who would you like to have coffee with?

If I could have coffee with anyone, I’d choose the Dalai Lama. I would love to hear his story of exile, his thoughts on the world today, and the simple truths he’s discovered through a life devoted to compassion. I’d ask him what he does for fun, what makes him laugh, and how he finds balance in an ever-changing world.

And because I hope to go to Kenya, my second choice would be Stefanie Powers (no comment Teri Surin), not for her Hollywood fame, but for the extraordinary life she’s lived beyond it. I’d love to listen to her stories of travel, adventure, and the world as it once was. She has made a remarkable difference through her work in animal conservation and education, and I’d be fascinated to share reflections on those faraway places, many of which I’ve seen too, though in a different time and with different eyes.

  1. What do you need?

What do I need? The answer is simple: time.

The older I get, the more fleeting time feels. I need more of it, though I know I’ll never have enough, to explore all the far corners of the world and show others those places through my eyes. And then, I need the time to record it all in my future memoir, No Cheese in China.

  1. What are you afraid of?

I’m afraid of running out of time…of not seeing, doing, and experiencing all the places of my dreams. There’s so much world left to explore, so many stories waiting to be written, and I fear the clock will move faster than my footsteps.

  1. If you could teach one thing to every child in every school in the world, what would it be? 

I’d teach them one of my favorite phrases: never stop wondering, never stop wandering.

To go with kindness in their hearts, dreams in their pockets, and eyes wide open to how others live, love, and see. Curiosity, compassion, and courage is the lesson I’d hope to leave behind.

  1. If you could re-live one moment in your life, what would it be?

If I could relive one moment, it would be the night of January 9, 2020. The night my brother and sister-in-law reopened the Robins Theatre in our hometown of Warren, Ohio. I can still hear him tell me about standing behind the curtain, taking that final breath before stepping out to a standing ovation. The pride in his eyes, the electricity in the room, the way the whole town seemed to hold its breath and then rise to its feet. It was pure magic.

I was there, watching from the audience, and I don’t think I’ve ever felt more pride or more connected to home, to family, and to the belief that dreams no matter how big, how impossible they may seem, really can come true.

If I could live any moment twice, it would be that one. 

  1. What do you think is your purpose in life?

I’ve felt since I was young that my purpose is to explore the world with an open heart and eyes, connect with people, and share what I see, learn, feel, and experience along the way. My purpose is to keep growing, never lose my curiosity, keep seeking, and maybe, just maybe, leave something good in every place and every person along the way. 

  1. What does religion mean to you? 

Although I was raised Christian, my global experiences have shaped a more open-minded and spiritual perspective. I am open to the beliefs of other religions and hold a sense of faith in something greater. My views on Christianity have shifted significantly, leading me toward respect, understanding, and a more spiritual approach grounded in simply being a “good” person.

To me, religion comes down to the golden rule: “Do unto others…” It’s the central teaching of many of the world’s major religions and philosophies. 

  1. What is the best thing about being you?

The best part of being me is the curiosity that keeps me reaching for new places and new perspectives. I explore without fear, listen with intention, and let every culture I encounter shape the way I understand the world.

  1. What song defines you?

“Drops of Jupiter” feels like my story. It is the story of leaving, growing, and finding my way back. It captures my constant search for wonder as I explore the world. It’s about crossing borders, collecting stories, and returning with a heart full of stars. The kind of stars that light my map and remind me I’m never lost, in this world or the next. 

  1. What does “home” feel like to you? 

The more I travel, the more home feels less like a place and more like a feeling. It’s a sense of belonging that finds me in unexpected corners of the world. It is the comfort of being completely myself, understood, welcomed, and free to just be. Home is the connection I find in the people, places, and moments that make the world feel smaller and kinder. I can honestly say, I feel at “home” in most places I have been in the world.

  1. What is your dream?

My dream? Honestly, I’m living it.

Not in some grand way, but in the day-to-day patterns of a life shaped by curiosity, connection, and movement. My dream has never been a single destination or achievement. It’s the ability to step into new places with an open heart, meet people whose paths I never expected to cross, and collect the stories, feelings, and small miracles that make the world feel both vast and familiar. A world where no matter where I am it feels like home.

I’m living my dream every time I board a plane, a train, or bus with no idea what moment will change me next. Every time a stranger becomes a friend. Every time I learn something that shifts my understanding of myself or humanity.

My dream is to keep exploring, keep sharing what I see and feel, and keep letting the world teach me. And in that sense, I’m already in the life I once only imagined. 

  1. What is your favorite color and how does it make you feel?

Green is my favorite color, specifically sage green. It makes me feel calm and steady. It reminds me of nature and grounds me, reminding me to breathe and enjoy the moment.

  1. What is the main characteristic common to all people on earth?

I think the one characteristic common to all people is the desire to be seen and understood. No matter where I’ve traveled, with different languages, cultures, and backgrounds, I’ve found that everyone wants to feel valued and heard. And at the center of it all is love. We’re all searching for it in one form or another: love from family, friends, partners, or even from the world itself. At our core, maybe, hopefully, we all just want to belong and to love and be loved in return.

  1. Who is the happiest person in the world?

Without meaning to sound boastful, I’d say I’m the happiest person in the world. I’ve learned to see the world through different eyes, to follow dreams across continents, and to live a life shaped by intention, courage, and choice, not by chance or convention. Luck didn’t get me here. I’m living my dream. Who wouldn’t be happy?

  1. What was the best era of your life?

Although I feel like I’m living my best life right now, my best era was my early 40s. My health was at its peak. I’d lost a little of the wild child from my younger years, but I was grounded without losing my curiosity about the world. Life felt steady. I had a solid income, a strong body that bounced back quickly, and a sense of balance I didn’t even realize I had.

Now, even as I’m living fully, I sometimes forget I’m not in that “40-ish” phase anymore. I push too hard, don’t listen to my body, and pay for it later. I know I need to slow down and be a little more cautious, but I never want to lose the mindset I had then, that mix of confidence and curiosity with a little bit of wild child thrown in.

  1. If you could participate in one historical event, what would it be? 

I would choose to be there for the opening of King Tut’s tomb. I’ve always been drawn to archaeology and fascinated by the world of the pharaohs, the pyramids, the mysteries, the stories buried in the sand for thousands of years. To witness that moment of discovery, when history literally opened its door, would have been incredible. 

  1. What is your favorite way to relax?

Right now in Morocco, my favorite way to relax is going to the hammam. There’s nothing like the steam, the scrub, and then a long massage that turns me into complete mush. I come home feeling weightless, with the rest of my day wide open, I would choose reading, writing, creating art, cooking, video-chatting with friends… whatever I feel like in that time after. 

  1. What question would you ask the world?

 Even though I’ve already asked and answered nineteen questions, I think this one matters the most. It’s more personal, and it comes straight from the soul.

Because beneath every face we pass is a story we rarely get to hear, and I’ve learned through travel that everyone, everywhere carries something tender they want the world to know.

If I could ask the world only one question, it would be: “What is the one thing your heart wishes people understood about you?

In the end, these questions have become more than a list. They’ve become a map of the people I’ve met and the places that shaped me. Every answer, whether whispered in a classroom or scribbled in my notebook on a long train ride, has shown me that the world is both bigger and kinder than it appears. We may speak in different languages and come from different corners of the earth, but our fears, hopes, and joys echo each other. Sharing my answers is just my way of adding my voice to the conversation. One traveler, one teacher, one curious heart reaching back toward the world that has given me so much.

If one of these questions sparks something in you, I’d love to hear your answer(s). You can send them to me at navel1ring@yahoo.com or via Facebook Messenger. Who knows, your voice might even find its way into my book one day.

 

 

Everywhere, the Same Heartbeat

Everywhere, the Same Heartbeat

From Asia to Europe to Africa to small-town America, I’ve seen how different our worlds appear and how alike we truly are. We may cook different meals, pray in different ways, or celebrate under different stars, but what we seek, the connection, the comfort, the laughter is the same. Wherever I go, I find the same joy in gathering, sharing, and belonging. Proof that people are far more alike than different, no matter how far from home we roam.

Sometimes the world feels impossibly vast. It is a mosaic of languages, a myriad of landscapes, and a multitude of traditions. Yet, the further I wander, the smaller it becomes. I felt it in Paris, where café tables held laughter and conversation that was music to my ears even when I didn’t understand all the words. I felt it in Xiashan, that small rural village in China, where I met a girl from my hometown in Ohio. I felt it in Warsaw with the never-ending rotation of flat mates who became like family. It followed me to Bulgaria where I reunited with young people I met nearly twenty years ago. And now, I feel it again here in Morocco.

Everywhere I’ve gone, I’ve been reminded of something that was painted on a classroom building at a school where I volunteered in Bali: Allow differences, respect differences, until differences are no longer different. Those words have followed me across the continents, from cobblestoned streets in Europe to the sand dunes of Morocco, all whispering the same truth as Indonesia’s national motto, Bhinneka Tunggal Ika – Unity in Diversity.

Maybe that’s why travel still feels a bit like Neverland to me. I don’t mean the place where I refuse to grow up, but that state of wonder that doesn’t fade. It’s a way of seeing the world with open eyes and an open heart. Its finding familiar in the foreign. The music changes, the spices taste different, the languages take on new rhythms. But I’m in a world that keeps reminding me to believe in a little magic.

Here in Kelaa, Morocco, I was invited to a wedding. All I knew about Moroccan wedding celebrations was they often start late in the evening and finish at dawn. I also knew I would need a special caftan. Luckily, one of my friends from the school and a relative of the groom, scouted caftans for me and sent photos. All I had to do was go pick it up and pay the rental fee of 100 dirham (10 euro). This includes laundry service. The other amazing thing? They simply placed the caftan in a bag, handed it to me, and off I went. No ID, no paperwork. But I’ve been in Kelaa long enough to know they could easily find me if I didn’t return it.

I was told by Khadija, my caftan finder, that we would go to the wedding around 21:30. As I was getting dressed, I realized I had no idea how to fasten the belt. Fortunately my downstairs neighbor who is my landlord, sent his wife up to help. When Khadija arrived she told me I needed more eye makeup. She had gifted me an Amazigh wooden applicator with homemade kohl which is a black powder consisting of sulfur, malachite, galena and animal fats. I had no idea how to put it on, so she applied it to my eyes and we set off for the wedding a little after 22:00.

When we arrived we were offered a shot of milk in a small silver cup and a date. This symbolizes wishes for a sweet, pure, and prosperous life. By the time we arrived, we had missed the Amariya procession where the couple makes their entrance on elevated platforms called amariyas, carried by the attendants. This symbolizes their elevated status as king and queen for the night. The bride is attended by a negafa, who helps her with up to seven outfit changes, each representing a different region of Morocco.

Stepping into the wedding was like stepping into a living kaleidoscope. The female guests were dressed in brilliant caftans in every shade of the rainbow. The room was filled with pulsing music and women dancing. The men lingered mostly outside chatting, until the baskets of khobz (round Moroccan bread) and plates of roasted chicken started arriving. They quickly made their way to the tables.

I sat there surrounded by people I didn’t know (Khadija was at another table) and whose words I couldn’t understand. As I looked around, I realized how much I did understand…the common language of joy, a shared meal, and laughter. A community gathered to celebrate something beautiful. It wasn’t so different from weddings back home in the USA. It was families crowded around tables, friends leaning close to talk over the music, and generations joining together in laughter. The songs and traditions were different, but the sentiment was the same…love, belonging, and the simple happiness of being together.

Several days after the wedding I had the opportunity to experience the final day of the four-day Tbourida with some Moroccan friends. Tbourida is a Moroccan equestrian performance dating back to the sixteenth century. It simulates a succession of military parades reconstructed according to ancestral Arab-Amazigh rituals. Riders in their tribal costumes charge toward the crowd, the men fire antique rifles into the air as the horses stop just in front of the crowd. The Tbourida in 2021 was placed on the UNESCO list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

After watching the horses race down the field, we wandered in search of something to eat. We ended up under a small tent where a man was frying sfenj or Moroccan donuts, golden and crisp. We ordered a basket, along with a few hard-boiled eggs, and I soon learned the local trick of smashing the donut into a “boat,” nestle the egg inside, and eat it like a breakfast sandwich. Some women brought us steaming mint tea, and we settled in for what turned out to be a most unexpected yet delightful repas.

Afterward, we drifted through rows of stalls with trinkets and jewelry shiny in the afternoon sun, piles of herbs and spices perfuming the air, and t-shirts swaying in the breeze. We stopped again to watch the next round of riders, their synchronized charge racing down the field. While we stood there, a young boy approached shyly, greeted me in English, and shook my hand as his friends giggled nearby. My friends explained he’d been dared to do it. Just behind me, a man was spinning clouds of pink cotton candy. We ended up buying half a dozen sticks for the boys…a sweet reward for bravery.

As we made our way back to the car, it struck me how familiar it all felt. Between the dust in the air, the scent of horses and hay, and the laughter of children, I could have been back at the Trumbull County Fair in Ohio. Not in appearance, but in essence. The hum of the crowd, the shared delight in simple pleasures like popcorn, cotton candy, and plastic toys that might not last the day but would certainly be loved for the moment. Whether in Morocco or middle America, people gather for the same reason: to belong, to laugh, and to share joy together. The details changed, but the heartbeat was the same.

Beyond the grand celebrations, it’s the smaller rituals that reveal our shared humanity most clearly. In the local hammam, the communal bathhouse, women gather not just to cleanse, but to connect. They talk, tease, share family stories, and laugh in the steamy warmth.

It reminds me of women’s spa days back home, or long lunches that stretch lazily into afternoon. It’s the same comfort of friendship, the same release of laughter that only comes when you’re surrounded by people who understand you.

Across the world, I’ve found this rhythm in a thousand different forms…over wine in a Paris café, in a Warsaw market, sharing dumplings in China, or at a diner in small-town Ohio. The settings change, but the essence remains unchanged. People coming together to share the simplest and richest parts of life.

After so many places, I’ve stopped searching for the line that separates different from same. In Morocco, at a wedding, laughter floated around tables just like it does at family gatherings back home. At the Tbourida, families cheered while children ran past, sticky-fingered with cotton candy…the same sweetness I remember from summer fairs in Ohio. In Europe, too, I’ve felt it at Sunday picnics along the Seine, in the playful banter of summer camp in Bulgaria, and in the quiet joy of people simply being together.

The settings change, the music, the colors, the customs, but the feeling doesn’t. Everywhere, people want the same simple things: good food, good company, and a place that feels like home. I used to think home was a point on a map, but I’ve learned it’s something more like a familiar heartbeat I recognize wherever kindness and connection live.

Maybe that’s the quiet truth I keep chasing. Unity doesn’t erase difference; it celebrates it. The magic isn’t only in faraway places, but in the way every place holds a reflection of home. The more I travel, the more I understand that the world’s beauty doesn’t lie in how different we are, but in how familiar we can feel, even in the most unfamiliar places.

The world isn’t as divided as it looks. Maybe, if we allow and respect our differences long enough, we’ll start to see they were bridges all along. Maybe that’s the true magic of this Neverland of mine, discovering that no matter how far we wander, the heartbeat of home echoes everywhere.

Allow differences, respect differences, until differences are no longer different.

 

Letters I’ll Never Send – to the people, places, and moments I left a piece of myself

Letters I’ll Never Send – to the people, places, and moments I left a piece of myself

Some stories don’t need an audience. Some goodbyes don’t need to be spoken. And some letters, the ones that write themselves in my head on quiet nights, whispered through thoughts and dreams, are meant only to remind me how deeply I’ve lived.

These are mine. Letters I’ll never send! To the people, places, and moments that shaped me; to the corners of the world that taught me what home can mean.

Dear Warren, Ohio,

I may have started life in Fort Meade, Maryland, but you were the beginning. The backdrop of a small town with the sound of trains that made me dream of elsewhere.

You raised me knowing to go home when the streetlights came on. You gave me an education which made me curious, with a longing to wander, and a family whose love traveled with me long after I boarded my first plane. Even now, no matter how far I go, your streetlights glow in my memory. AND one day, I will come home.

Dear Mom and Dad,

You named me Wendy. A name borrowed from imagination and given to a girl who would one day learn to fly.

You filled my world with books, maps, and National Geographic magazines that made the globe feel both infinite and reachable. You were my first teachers: parents, providers of wisdom, and permissive provocateurs who never clipped my wings, even when you worried where they might take me. Thank you for the gift of curiosity. It became the passport to everything I’ve ever loved.

Dear Mark,

You’ve always been my biggest cheerleader and my best friend.

From the start, you believed in every wild idea I chased, even when it meant watching me disappear across oceans. You reminded me where I came from, kept the laughter alive in the spaces between our worlds, and never let distance dull our bond. No matter how far I roam, knowing you’re in my corner makes every place feel a little more like home.

 

Dear Tom,

You were the love that taught me how deep connection can go and how fragile timing can be.

We dreamed together once, of places and possibilities, and though the road eventually led me away, part of me was always tracing those dreams we never took. You were both anchor and catalyst. The ache that became my compass. I’ve carried you quietly across continents, tucked between journal pages and border stamps. Maybe love doesn’t have to last to leave a mark. Maybe it just has to open a door.

Dear Paris,

You were my first dream, my leap across the pond, and my first step into the unknown.

You taught me how to take care of myself when everything felt foreign. I arrived with a suitcase and an open mind, and left with stories and a desire to share my Paris with anyone who would listen or travel with me. You showed me beauty, history, the thrill of discovery and somehow, I fall more in love with you each time I return.

Dear Julie,

You were the girl behind the counter at the corner café in Montmartre. The one who always remembered how I liked my coffee in the morning and poured my wine the moment you spotted me walking down the street toward Café Chappe at night. You always had a dining recommendation, and it was always the right choice.

Between my tiny cups of espresso and glasses of rosé, we shared our dreams. Yours was Bali.

I still remember the sparkle in your eyes when you made me promise that if you ever made it there, I would visit. And I did. You kept your promise to yourself, and I found my way to Bali. Then, because of the family I met there during my visit to you, I found my way back again.

Dear China,

You were my test and my teacher and sometimes, you were tough. I laughed. I cried. I stumbled through tones and translations, but learned that kindness doesn’t need a dictionary. I was frustrated at times and decided you were the place I loved to hate, yet hated to love.

From shared taxis to last-minute dinners I couldn’t refuse because someone would “lose face,” to students and friends who became like family. You taught me that humanity has its own universal accent. I still carry your chaos. And, dear Xiashan, I will always consider you my home in the Middle Kingdom.

And because I can’t choose one, to all the Alinas, Alices, Rabbies, Peters, Pauls, and all the Chinese names I can’t remember, you made me fall in love with your country, your culture, and your people. You turned six months into four years and gave me an inside look at a nation that, until recently, had only begun to open its doors to foreigners.

You gave me a language written in characters instead of letters, words and numbers I still recall today, a love of real Chinese food, and a lifelong appreciation for your history. And though personal space was never your strong suit, you filled every inch of my life with color, laughter, and unforgettable stories. I am forever grateful for the time I spent with all of you.

 

Dear Bali,

You were the soft landing after the chaos of China.

You wrapped me in sunlight, incense, love, and sea salt. You reminded me that healing can be found in water, laughter, family, prayer, meditation, and the mystical ways of the Balian, Cok Rai, the healer who felt what I couldn’t explain. In your temples and in your hearts, I learned how to breathe again…deeply, gratefully, without hurry.

I discovered the joy of simple things: the sound of wind chimes over rice fields, the gamelan at the temple, the call of the gecko, and the sweet scent of frangipani that will never leave me.

Dear Ketut, Koming, Kirana, and Kiera,

You were truly my Balinese family. I fell in love with you on my first visit to Peliatan, near Ubud. You welcomed me as if I had always belonged. You invited me into your home, your rituals, your laughter, your lives.

You included me in daily offerings and temple ceremonies, took me to a Balinese wedding, and before I left, invited me back to participate in Ketut’s mother’s Ngaben, the sacred cremation ceremony. I returned, and you welcomed me not as a guest but as family.

When I left again, I knew I would return, not for days or weeks, but for months. During that time, I learned so much about Balinese culture, but more than anything, you taught me the meaning of belonging.

When I finally had to leave for the U.S., you made me promise to come back. I planned to return in May 2020, but the world stopped turning, and I couldn’t get there. You even planned a surprise for me at the airport: the new addition to your family, little Kinara.

You will always be Bali to me.

Dear Poland,

I arrived just before the world stopped turning. You became my shelter in uncertain times. I was grateful to spend the pandemic within your borders. I went from face-to-face English lessons to online sessions and found unexpected connection through a screen.

I lived in the heart of your capital, where a never-ending rotation of international flatmates kept life interesting, and human, during a time when the world felt paused. Through those encounters, I built deep friendships that carried me through the quiet months.

More than anything, you gave me a new respect for your country and your people. For the way you endured, rebuilt, and kept moving forward no matter how heavy the history or how long the winter.

Poland, thank you for showing me the meaning of resilience.

Dear Valeria, Zeka, Anu, Anil, Tarlan, and Klara,

In the revolving door of flatmates, you are the ones who stayed nearest and dearest. I can’t imagine my life in Warsaw without you in it.

Valeria, the broken tub bonded our friendship as tightly as the repair job on the hole you made.

Anu and Anil, celebrating Nepalese holidays with you and your friends brought such light into the long winters, and I’ll never forget the joy I felt when your son was born.

Zeka, Tarlan, and Klara, what can I say? We had some mad Friday nights. Cocktails, Frank Sinatra and Elvis on the turntable, friends over for those ridiculous games, like Cards Against Humanity, laughter echoing through the flat long after the music stopped and you headed to the club and I headed to bed.

I probably wouldn’t have stayed nearly five years if it hadn’t been for all of you.

Dear Bulgaria,

Your chapter started more than twenty years ago, when four teenagers from Gabrovo came to Warren, Ohio. No matter how often you say, I’ll come see you someday, it rarely happens when decades and oceans lie between.

When I was living in Poland, I received an offer to teach English at Zenira Camp on the Black Sea. It was an unexpected door to my past and a chance to fulfill a long-kept promise to visit those four young people from Bulgaria.

Not only did you reunite me with the teenagers who were now in their thirties by the time I made the trip, but you also gave me a new cast of characters through Zenira Camp and four unforgettable summers on the Black Sea.

You gave me the gift of return and reminded me that some stories really do come full circle.

Dear Hristian, Tony, Pako (Pavel), and Yani,

Our chapter began more than twenty years ago in Warren, Ohio, when I met four teenagers from Gabrovo, Bulgaria, who stole my heart.

Pako, having you live with me and Tom may have been a precursor to why I’m so drawn to homestays. It’s the best way to immerse yourself in a culture.

Hristian, you always made me laugh and still do to this day.

Tony and Yani, so young, sweet, and innocent back then, and now married with children of your own.

I can’t tell you how much it meant to reconnect with all of you after more than two decades. To see you again in your home country (even though two of you no longer live there), to meet your families, and to have you share your Bulgaria with me.

Seeing you all again was proof that time may pass, but love and laughter never fade.

Dear Tanzania,

You were another dream come true. You were my reminder of wonder.

As a little girl, I didn’t dream of sugarplums; I dreamed of epic sunsets behind massive acacia trees while giraffes and zebras wandered the plains. From your rock-strewn earth to your wide-open sky, you gave me awe. The endless stretch of the Serengeti left me breathless. I saw lions asleep beneath acacia trees, the great migration of wildebeest, and a horizon that felt infinite.

I remember the laughter of my small students who found joy in everything, the rhythm and vivid color of the Maasai market, and the sunsets that made time disappear. You reminded me that joy lives in the simple things and that gratitude can be spoken with a smile alone.

 

Dear Bright English Medium School,

I lived with you at the school. It was a forty-minute walk from the nearest town, if you could even call it that. I sometimes felt guilty eating my chapati, pasta, meat stew, and fresh fruit while you ate porridge for breakfast and rice and beans for lunch and dinner every single day. But I learned that gratitude is often served through food, and I have never met a more thankful group of children.

You were grateful for every moment we spent together. Whether it was chasing a battered water jug across the dusty field and kicking it into a lone soccer goal, or singing songs while keeping rhythm on an overturned pail. We didn’t always have electricity. I took bucket showers with water heated over a wood fire and washed my clothes by hand, hanging them to dry in the Tanzanian sun.

Thank you for showing me so much love, for reminding me that joy doesn’t come from having much, but from cherishing what you have. You gave me one of the most heartwarming experiences of my life and a forever home in my heart.

Dear Morocco,

Our story isn’t over yet. You were never part of my long-term plan, but somehow you became home.

I came for what I thought would be three months, a brief stay, a new adventure. Then I arrived in Kelaa, still recovering from an ear infection, and somehow you wouldn’t let me go. I stayed. I taught. And when another injury and uncertainty found me again, you turned healing into belonging.

I’ll never forget the stillness and silence of the Sahara or the nights in Kelaa when the call to prayer floated through the air and I realized I was exactly where I was meant to be.

Like I said, our story isn’t over yet. But when this chapter does end, know that it was one of the most unexpected and beautiful of them all. A reminder that sometimes the places we never planned to go become the ones that affect us most.

Dear People of Morocco,

Because this chapter isn’t over yet, I’ll save my unsent letter for another time. But if I were to write them now, there would be too many to count.

I could fill pages with stories of shared coffee and tea, of strangers who showed kindness before they knew my name. I could write to the shopkeepers, the desert nomads, the children who shouted greetings while they kicked their soccer ball, and the friends who refused to let me leave until I ate more.

There are so many people, places, and moments that deserve their own letter, enough, perhaps, for a book all their own. For now, I’ll just say thank you for your warmth, your patience, and your endless capacity to make a foreigner feel at home.

PS: And so, for now, I’ll leave this last letter unwritten…

Some letters aren’t meant to arrive. They just need to be written. And with this one unfinished, I don’t know where the next postcard from the edge will come from, or who will become my next Dear So-and-So. But I can feel Kenya calling. It will be another story waiting, another letter unwritten. There are so many people, not only from the road but from home, to whom I could write a thousand letters, but know this: every one of them is already written on my heart. Maybe that’s how I dream by writing letters never sent, to people, places, and moments that made my life a living map of love.

From Xiashan to Changning: Only In China – The Great Pizza Chase

From Xiashan to Changning:  Only In China – The Great Pizza Chase

When it came time to leave Xiashan, it didn’t feel like just leaving a place. It felt like leaving a piece of myself behind. I hadn’t realized how much it had become home until that moment. It wasn’t just the people or the place. It was who I had become there. The laughter, the late-night hot pots, the impromptu concerts, and the everyday magic of life there had settled into the corners of my heart. “Only in China,” I thought, as we gathered one last time beneath strings of colored lights and a haze of nostalgia with voices rising in celebration and farewell. I didn’t know it then, but that night marked the beginning of my education in the art of leaving. Learning to say goodbye without truly letting go.

After I returned to Xiashan and had been there about a week, my agency told me they were sending me to a new school, but they weren’t sure which one. I could stay in Xiashan until the new school was ready for me. Of course, I was very sad about this because everyone knew how much I loved Xiashan and my school. I was fortunate to be able to meet and orient the new teachers, spend a couple of weeks with them, and share time at the school with my students and teacher friends.

Xiangnan Experimental Middle School

I found out on a Monday that I would be leaving on Thursday for my new school, Xiangnan Experimental Middle School in Changning Hunan Provence. I was happy to know my students in Xiashan were left in the capable hands of Colleen. I had the best send-off anyone could ask for. Xiashan will always be home in China to me.

Although my time in Xiashan had come to an end, we had one last evening of celebration and song with friends from months past and the new arrivals just beginning to chase their own adventures across China. That final night is tucked among my most cherished memories. Amy and Alayna were there, along with the school staff who had become family. I felt the spirits of Adrian and Jessica in the laughter that filled the room, even as Colleen, Caleb, George, and Andreas, the new kids on the block, sang a farewell they had written for me, George strumming a ukulele like it was the soundtrack to our shared story.

The words went like this:

“Sad that you are leaving. Though you will have fun.

We will still be grieving. Wendy, we’ll miss you a lot.

We’ll miss your stories, your laughter, and your great hot pots.

You will have lots of fun. We wish that you could stay.

Hot Pot

But clearly it can’t be done and when you go away,          you should remember us.

We’ll remember you.

And, when I (George) was sick on the bus, my mom said,

‘Hello George! Is Wendy there for you?’

And…I said…YES, she’s really here for me. She’s here for all of us.

And even though I’m (George) super grumpy with an IV on the wall,

She cured me with her rice cooker with which she fed us all.

Adrian and Jessica

Now she claims it took her just no time at all. 

But truly we can say, that we have lost a saint.

And Jessica and Adrian must really miss you too. 

Because we know how we will.

When you try to fill the big hole with concrete, that was really hard.

Now we must do the same.

I know that we can say, that we have made a friend.

One that we can count on, right up until the end.”

The song made me laugh and cry, a perfect echo of the months that had shaped me. It was the first of many goodbyes in years to come, each one teaching me that leaving never gets easier. You just carry the people and places with you, tucked between the folds of memory. “Missing my stories” really made me feel like Wendy from Peter Pan, forever telling tales to my lost boys, forever hovering between the worlds I had loved and the ones still waiting just beyond the horizon.

As for the IV on the wall, that part was no exaggeration. George had fallen quite ill, and a doctor made a house call, casually hooking an IV bag to the wall and showing us how to change it, as if it were the most ordinary thing in the world. Just another “only in China” moment added to my growing collection. And as for the “hole”, well, that one carried two meanings. There was, of course, the one left by my leaving, but also the very real hole or should I say missing chunk of concrete that happened one unforgettable night when Jessica, Adrian, and I, perhaps with a little liquid courage involved along with maybe nunchaku, decided to ???  I’m not sure what we were doing or maybe I don’t want to say.  I think we wanted to forget.  Lets just say we broke our window seat.  Our repair job? Let’s just say it was as successful as it sounds. Enough said.

It was an evening filled with joy, laughter, stories, and yes, tears. Little did I know at the time that Amy and Colleen would later resurface in unexpected corners of my journey, reminders that goodbyes in this life of constant motion aren’t always final, merely pauses between the next hello.

At dawn, I watched the sun rise over the tracks, its light spilling across rice fields and rooftops like a quiet promise. My driver arrived at six, and by 7:30 I was aboard the train, the rhythm of the rails carrying me farther from Xiashan and closer to whatever waited beyond the horizon. Ten hours later, I arrived in Hengyang, Hunan Province. I then continued on a seventy-minute drive to Changning, where the headmaster of my new school greeted me over dinner. By nightfall, I was unpacking in a large apartment I would now call home, sharing the space with my new roommate, Yulia from Moscow. My heart was equal parts heavy and hopeful. It still lingered in the warmth of Xiashan, yet was already leaning toward the next story unfolding before me.

I was reminded of a quote by Azar Nafisi: “You get a strange feeling when you leave a place, like you’ll not only miss the people you love, but you’ll miss the person you are at this time and place, because you’ll never be this way ever again.” Leaving Xiashan had felt exactly like that, a small ache, not just for the people and moments I was leaving behind, but for the version of myself that had come alive there.

I woke up that first morning in Changning with that same strange feeling, that momentary disorientation when you forget where you are. It took me a second to realize I wasn’t in Xiashan or Kansas anymore. The room felt unfamiliar, and as nature called, I was reminded that I was now in the land of squatty potties. Hunan Province is famous for them, and our new flat was no exception. I shuffled toward the kitchen, still half-asleep and craving coffee, only to find there wasn’t a coffee maker in sight. Thankfully, our host from the school had promised to take us out that afternoon for orientation, so caffeine would have to wait.

Yulia, my new roommate from Moscow, and I hit it off right away. Two foreigners finding comfort in shared confusion. Fortunately for me, Yulia had studied for a short time in Suzhou and had a basic knowledge of Mandarin, a skill that would come in handy more times than I could count. We chatted over bottled water and biscuits until Rabbie, our school liaison, arrived to pick us up.

Our first stop was the police station to register as foreign residents, a standard ritual for anyone teaching in China. From there, it was off to the school itself.

I was instantly charmed by the palm trees swaying in the courtyard, a little tropical oasis tucked inside the gray bustle of the city. About 4,000 students attended the school, some living in dormitories on campus. I learned that I’d be teaching nineteen forty-five–minute classes a week to groups of thirteen-year-olds with an average of sixty students per class, with my largest group topping out at eighty-five. The sheer number of faces felt daunting, but the students’ energy and curiosity were contagious. After a warm welcome from the staff and students, we made one final stop at the bank to open our accounts.

By then, I had started collecting what I fondly called my “Only in China” moments. Those snapshots of daily life that would have seemed bizarre anywhere else but here had begun to feel oddly normal. After George’s IV had been hooked to our apartment wall back in Xiashan, I didn’t even blink when I saw a small girl at the bank, her tiny hand wrapped around an IV line attached to a makeshift pole, a thin branch her father carried like it was the most natural thing in the world. Another day, another dose of the extraordinary masquerading as ordinary.

Day one at school. I had been told I’d be teaching thirteen-year-olds, so imagine my surprise when my first five classes, three on Monday and two on Tuesday, were all sixteen and seventeen-year-olds. No biggie. We got along fine. Their English was limited, but their smiles and curiosity bridged the gap. They were thrilled to have a foreign teacher, and I was just as thrilled to be back in the classroom again.

By now, I’d been in Changning, Hunan Province just over a week and had survived my first week at Xiangnan Experimental Middle School. Our apartment was lovely, ten flights up, but still two flights less than in Xiashan. I had fully adjusted to the squatty potty life by then. Just think how strong my quads would be after five months of practice. Fridays, I quickly learned, were my endurance test. I had five classes in a row, the last of which were inevitably the rowdiest. The students’ excitement was equal parts exhausting and endearing. Teaching thirteen-year-olds, I realized, could be as chaotic and delightful as teaching first graders.

Hunan’s food was as fiery as its people…bold, flavorful, unforgettable. I missed my scooter, though, and briefly considered buying another one. Life here was good, but I still missed Xiashan and the rhythm of my days there, the faces I’d left behind. Yet, somehow, a new rhythm was beginning to form. I was discovering a new version of home in Changning…new students, new friends, and new reasons to love this unpredictable life.

It was easy to feel like a minor celebrity in a smaller city like this. Just walking down the street, saying nihao to strangers, brought bursts of delight and surprise. Their eyes would widen as if an alien had wandered into their neighborhood, and then smiles would spread, genuine and contagious. It’s in those moments I began to understand what it means to live within a culture rather than simply pass through it. I realized how fortunate I was to be not just a traveler, but a participant. Maybe I really was destined to be a nomad.

That weekend, I mentioned I might buy another scooter. They were as cheap as in Xiashan. But that idea didn’t last long. The day was warm and bright when Yulia and I decided to walk to the post office which was about 2.4 kilometers away. When we told Rabbie, our school contact, he waved his hands in alarm. “No, no, that’s so far! I’ll take you later.” We laughed and told him we wanted to walk, maybe grab lunch along the way. It took about forty-five minutes, strolling and window shopping. At one point, Yulia laughed, shaking her head. “He thinks that’s far! When I was at university in Moscow, I walked an hour and a half each way, every day, in every season, even in winter.”

Right then and there, I decided not to buy the scooter. Fifteen minutes walk to school and back wouldn’t kill me, and the weather was pleasant enough, except, of course, for the approaching rainy season. Besides, the school gave us a 200-yuan monthly taxi allowance for emergencies. Walking would do me good. And Yulia? She had earned my full respect. A woman willing to walk miles in snow for her education deserved every bit of it.

Life in Changning soon found its rhythm. Weekends were spent in the countryside with friends and friends of friends…climbing small mountains, having barbecues outside a monastery, visiting temples and pagodas, and simply enjoying the ease of unhurried days. I l was beginning to love life here…ordinary yet extraordinary. You knew the street cleaner was coming when you heard “It’s a Small World” echoing faintly in the distance. How fitting, I often thought. The more I traveled, the smaller and more connected my world became.

Then came the weekend Yulia and I decided to journey a bit further—to Changsha, the capital of our province. Another story. Another one of my “Only in China” tales.

First, a bit of context. I loved the food in Changning…spicy, delicious, and wonderfully inexpensive. But after a few weeks, even the best chili peppers lose their charm, and variety was… well, limited. Western ingredients were scarce, and sometimes all you wanted was something simple, something familiar, like cheese. And as anyone who’s spent time here quickly learns, there’s a reason my memoir is called No Cheese in China. So, Yulia and I decided to make a trip to Changsha for one reason and one reason only: food. Even if “Western food” only meant McDonald’s or Pizza Hut, we were determined. Rain or shine, we were going. If all we did was eat, so be it. Though if the weather cooperated, we hoped to fit in a little sightseeing too.

Changsha was about three hours away by bus. The first bus left at 7:50 a.m., the last bus back to Changning at 5:20 p.m.  Not a lot of wiggle room, but it was our plan, and we were sticking to it.

We caught the early bus and arrived just after eleven, greeted by a light drizzle. No problem, McDonald’s was conveniently inside the bus station. Two Big Macs and fries later (my first Big Mac in years, and oh, how good it tasted), we were fueled and ready to explore. The rain had stopped, so we hopped in a taxi to Yuelu Shan, a mountain park rich with history and scenic beauty.

By the time we arrived, it was around 12:30. We had roughly four hours before we needed to be back at the bus station. No problem, we thought. Plenty of time.

Wrong—with a capital W.

We had a wonderful afternoon wandering the park’s winding paths, snapping photos, and soaking in the view. Around four o’clock, stomachs rumbling, we decided to grab a taxi back to a Pizza Hut we’d passed earlier. We ordered a large cheese-stuffed-crust supreme to go and browsed the nearby mall while we waited. When we returned, the pizza still wasn’t ready. Finally, box in hand, we dashed out to the curb, hailed a taxi, and were promptly told we were on the wrong side of the street. So we ran. Down the sidewalk, through traffic, across the road, finally catching a cab around 4:50.

We pulled into the bus station, terrified to check the time, bolted down three flights of stairs and out the doors—no bus in sight. It was 5:22. The last bus had gone. Crap. Were we spending the night in Changsha?

Not yet.

A man standing beside another bus noticed our panic. Without hesitation, he ran over, glanced at our tickets, whipped out his phone, and started talking rapidly in Mandarin, motioning for us to follow him. We ran! Two foreigners clutching a pizza and our hopes. Up the stairs and out the doors while he stayed on the phone, barking instructions. He stopped suddenly, hung up, and said they were gone. He’d been trying to call the driver before the bus pulled out. Shit.

But he didn’t give up. “Come,” he said, and took off running again. We followed, half-laughing, half-panicked, chasing him through the station. He pointed toward the street and pointed to a car, yelling for us to get in. Before we could even buckle up, he was on the phone again, driving like a man on a mission. Ten minutes later, he veered onto the highway, weaving through traffic.

And then, like a scene from a movie, there it was: our bus, pulled over on the shoulder. He honked, pulled up behind it, and turned to us. “Go, hurry!”

We jumped out, ran to the bus, and climbed aboard, pizza still in hand. No one said a word. No one even looked surprised. The driver barely glanced up. We just found two seats near the back, sank down, and burst out laughing.

As the bus rumbled toward Changning, we dug into our pizza, cold, but perfect as the city lights of Changsha faded behind us. Another adventure. Another small miracle of kindness. Another day in China where the impossible somehow became ordinary.

Somewhere between laughter and exhaustion, I thought about how travel has a way of humbling and surprising you in equal measure. In a country where words often failed me, kindness never did. One stranger’s determination to help two bewildered foreigners chase down a runaway bus was yet another reminder that humanity speaks fluently in every language. We made it home that night—grateful, tired, and a little giddy. Two travelers with cold pizza on our laps and another “Only in China” story to tell.

 

 

Only In China: Fate, Serendipity, and a Tank Full of Trouble

Only In China: Fate, Serendipity, and a Tank Full of Trouble

Sometimes fate hides in the people you haven’t yet met, the choices you don’t know you’re making, and the places you never planned to go. I couldn’t have known then that one decision, to leave my job, pack a suitcase, and chase a dream in Paris would set off a chain of moments leading me halfway across the world to a rural village in China, a fellow Trumbull County resident I’d never met, and an unforgettable taxi ride that would leave me laughing instead of quaking about a tank full of illegal gas.

This story begins in Paris, the summer of 2014. I had just asked for a leave of absence from a job I once loved but had grown to resent, ended a long-term relationship with the love of my life, packed my belongings into storage, and pressed pause on everything familiar. With a rented flat, a suitcase, and a one-way ticket, I traded certainty for the cobblestoned unknown and moved to Paris. Things didn’t unfold exactly as planned, but that’s another story.

For nearly six months I lived the dream I’d scribbled into journals for years. I woke to the scent of fresh croissants and the sound of church bells echoing across the arrondissements. In February 2015, I returned to the U.S. unable to slide back into the life I’d left behind. I didn’t return to the YMCA, and Warren, Ohio no longer felt like home. It felt smaller than before, as though I’d outgrown it. My heart was restless, my whole being was pulled toward the far corners of the map.

China became my next leap of faith. I discovered a program that would let me study Mandarin on a student visa while teaching English. It was a perfect fit. So once again, with one suitcase and a one-way ticket, I boarded a plane to Beijing. I wasn’t fluent in Mandarin, couldn’t master chopsticks, and had never faced a squat toilet, but I was ready. After two weeks of cultural training, I found myself in a rural village so small it wasn’t even named on most maps: Xiashan, in Shandong Province.

Xiashan was the China I didn’t know I’d been seeking. The 4,000 or so residents lived in simple homes surrounded by fields and high-rise “ghost” apartments built in the hope that families would someday come. The village’s pride was its new bilingual school, where the population more than doubled when the students arrived each term. I lived in one of those empty high-rises. It was here, far from everything I’d ever known, that I fell in love with China.

It was as far from Warren, Ohio as one could get, not just in miles, but in spirit. Few people spoke English, and many had never seen a foreigner. With my light hair and blue eyes, I stood out like the proverbial sore thumb. I was a walking curiosity. My six-month visa passed much too quickly. I had thought that after spending half a year teaching in a rural Chinese village, I would be ready to return to my old life. But as the end drew near, I knew I wasn’t. Still, I had to return to the U.S. to renew my visa, and the school would need to replace me before I could return.

Life in Xiashan was simple. I bought vegetables at the street market, meat from hooks, and once even waited while a sheep was slaughtered for me. Reluctantly but determined, I went back to Warren, I immediately sent my passport, application, fees, and hopes to the Chinese Embassy. Two and a half weeks later, a ten-year multiple-entry visa was stamped in my passport. I was so sure I’d return that I had asked the school to keep my things until I did and they had graciously agreed.

Before I left China to renew my visa, I already knew where I’d be spending Chinese New Year once I returned. Not in the fireworks and frenzy of Beijing, Shanghai, or Hong Kong, but in a quiet farming village with my co-worker Alina’s family. I couldn’t have asked for a more genuine celebration.

When I arrived in Xiashan, Alina and her brother met me at my apartment, he, thank goodness, effortlessly carried my fifty-nine-pound suitcase up twelve flights of stairs before whisking me off to their village, just fifteen minutes away. On the way, Alina reminded me that her parents were simple farmers and spoke no English. I told her I was honored to be invited into their home for such a special occasion.

Her father was waiting outside when we arrived, smiling shyly in the crisp winter air. Their home was a modest concrete building with three rooms: Alina’s small bedroom, a cooking area, and a main living space that doubled as her parents’ bedroom. There was no indoor plumbing; the toilet was a concrete trough outside, shielded only by a low wall. Yes, I had the midnight adventure of discovering it at three a.m. under a freezing sky.

I didn’t know it then, but these quiet 3 a.m. moments, stepping out into the dark, breath turning to mist, the world hushed and waiting, would become a recurring theme in my travels. In the years ahead, I’d find myself awake at that same hour in the shadow of Mount Everest and again beneath the stars of the Sahara, each time reminded how alive and present the world feels when it’s just you, the cold air, and the hum of something greater.

Her mother was already preparing a lunch of steaming baozi, soft buns filled with minced meat and served with garlic-vinegar sauce. They were delicious; I ate two and was thoroughly stuffed. Afterward, Alina translated a bit of conversation before her mother insisted I rest after my journey.

When I woke, the courtyard was alive with the evening’s preparations. Her father was butchering a chicken, slicing pork, and cleaning fish and prawns while Alina’s brother helped their mother fold dumplings for the midnight meal…symbols of luck and prosperity. As evening fell, the table filled with dishes I couldn’t always name but will never forget. We toasted the New Year with red wine her brother had brought, laughter cutting through the cold.

After dinner, we gathered on her parents’ kang, a wide, tiled bed warmed from beneath by a coal burner. A thin cushion softened the ceramic surface, and the radiant heat spread slowly through the room. We watched the televised celebration from Beijing. Just before midnight, we ate dumplings and stepped outside to light firecrackers, sending the crack and sparkle of good fortune into the sky.

Alina’s father insisted I “live” with them for the night, so Alina and I shared her warm bed, listening to distant bursts of celebration fade into quiet. In the morning, her mother poured hot and cool water into a basin so I could wash, then served mantou, plain steamed buns, and reheated leftovers for breakfast. After we ate, Alina and I wandered through the village before riding her scooter to Xiashan Lake for the New Year’s Day market and festival.

It was simple, authentic, and perfect. No luxury, no fanfare, just family, generosity, and tradition. I was profoundly honored to have been welcomed into it, and I wouldn’t trade that experience for anything.

I spent the next ten or so days quietly tucked into village life, maybe taking one bus ride into Weifang, but mostly lingering in the stillness of Spring Festival. The streets were nearly empty; no students yet, no chatter spilling from the school gates, just the sound of wind through fields and the occasional bark of a dog echoing between concrete walls. I was waiting for the new foreign teachers to arrive while finalizing my next placement with my agent. Those days passed the way still days often do, unhurried, uneventful, and somehow gone too soon.

When the time came to meet my replacement, the village seemed to hold its breath. The air was crisp and bright, the kind of quiet day that makes you feel both grateful and nostalgic at once. Knowing my time in my first Chinese home was ending, I took my scooter out for a long, ride. The dirt roads, the clusters of concrete houses, the open-air market where I’d bought vegetables and laughter in equal measure, all of it felt suspended in memory even as I moved through it.

I rode down to Xiashan Lake, at the base of our small mountain – xia meaning “beneath,” shan meaning “mountain” – the namesake of our village. And then, not by coincidence I think, I found myself pulling up in front of 1-Der-Ful Dumpling, a tiny shop where I’d eaten soon after I first arrived. Inside, women were folding meat-filled jiaozi faster than I could count, their hands moving in a rhythm older than the town itself. I sat there with my plate, the steam fogging the window, thinking about all the people and moments that had made me fall in love with this quiet corner of China.

Eventually, it was time to head back and meet the newcomers. “Small world” doesn’t even begin to describe what happened next. When I returned to the apartment, the four new teachers had already arrived. Two would share my three-bedroom flat with me until I left; the other two had the one across the hall.

I happened to be wearing a Cleveland Cavaliers shirt. Fitting, since it was a big year for the Cavs. One of the new arrivals, a guy who was rooming with the girl across the hall, noticed it.

“Hey,” he said, “you’re from Ohio? Colleen’s from Ohio too.”

“Really?” I asked. “Where in Ohio?”

“Oh, you wouldn’t know it,” he said with a shrug. “Some little town near Youngstown.”

I laughed. “I’m from a little town near Youngstown…Warren.”

His eyes widened. “Well, she’s from Cortland.”

Me and Colleen with three of the Chinese teachers

A few minutes later, Colleen came over, and we obviously both knew that Warren and Cortland neighbor each other in Trumbull County, we both just stared for a moment, then burst out laughing. Two people from the same corner of Ohio, meeting for the first time in a tiny village in rural China not even marked on most maps.

The world, it turns out, isn’t so big after all.

Life, of course, had other plans. What was supposed to be six months in China no longer had an end date. One city led to another, and then another, three in total before I’d finally leave in July of 2019 to begin a new chapter in Bali. Each move brought new faces, new lessons, and new ways of seeing the world. China had become less of a stop along the way and more of a home that kept reshaping me. I often thought back to Xiashan. To its dusty roads and quiet markets, to the people who had unknowingly marked the beginning of this long, unfolding story.

And then, as if the universe wanted to remind me that the world loves a good callback, our paths crossed again. It was Christmas of 2018, not far from that first meeting. I had traveled to Weifang to spend the holiday with a couple, Amy and Harrison, who had met in Xiashan, an American teacher and her Chinese husband, now married and building a life together.

Colleen wasn’t there when I arrived, but she was still living in the Xiashan–Weifang area, and we arranged to meet for dinner. Sitting together that evening, we couldn’t help but laugh at the sheer improbability of it all. Two girls from Warren, Ohio, who had never crossed paths back home, somehow only managed to meet up on the other side of the world, in China.

The train ride before the taxi craziness

Leaving Weifang after the holidays, I was ready for nothing more than a hot shower, my quilted pajamas, and a martini with two almond-stuffed olives. But first, there was the small matter of getting home. A journey that started with a train from Weifang to Jinan, followed by a two-plus-hour car ride to Dong’e. It’s a route I’d taken before, the kind of long-day travel that usually ends quietly. But in China, the unexpected isn’t the exception—it’s the rule.

When my train pulled into Jinan, my driver was already waiting. Because Dong’e is so far from the nearest station, it’s common to arrange shared cars. I’d used this driver several times before, so when I saw three passengers already packed into the back seat, I simply smiled, climbed into the front, and off we went.

For the first hour and forty-five minutes, the ride was uneventful. Pitch-black roads and stretches of countryside broken only by the occasional flicker of neon from a roadside shop. Then we turned down a narrow, one-lane dirt road, the kind with ditches on both sides, to drop off the first passenger. It was so tight the driver had to make one of those awkward three-point turns to get us facing the right direction again.

About ten minutes later, we turned down another single-lane track even darker than the first. The remaining two passengers got out and climbed into a small cart that was waiting for them. Side note, it was about seventeen degrees that night. And then there was one: just me and my driver, heading toward Dong’e.

I wasn’t worried; he lived there too, and we’d traveled together before. We passed through a few small villages with no streetlights, just the occasional glow from a window. And then, about fifteen minutes from town, we pulled into what looked like a small parking lot. There was one car and a shack, maybe four by eight feet. My driver honked, and a rather large man emerged, climbed into the back seat, and we started off again. I assumed he just needed a lift into town.

Well… not exactly.

About thirty yards down the road, we turned into what looked like an abandoned factory. The driver said something in Chinese I didn’t understand, then backed the car up perpendicular to a box truck. The big guy got out, opened the truck’s back doors, and to my astonishment, there was a full fuel pump inside. My driver turned to me, smiling, and said something that sounded like “just a few minutes.” I nodded, smiled back, and pretended this was the most normal thing in the world.

They filled the car from the truck, paid whatever arrangement was owed, and we drove the man back to his shack before heading toward Dong’e again. No harm done. Just another little adventure in my China life.

By the time I reached home, I was equal parts amused and relieved. I kicked off my shoes, stepped into a hot shower, slipped into my quilted pajamas, and finally poured that martini with two almond-stuffed olives. As I settled under my thick blanket, I couldn’t help but laugh. Some people collect souvenirs; I collect stories, and this one, well, could only have happened in China.

China had a way of reminding me that plans are only suggestions and certainty is overrated. From chance meetings to midnight detours, life here kept proving that the best stories never begin with “everything went as expected.” What was meant to be six months had stretched into years, and I had the feeling this was only the beginning. Fate, coincidence, and a touch of chaos seemed to follow me wherever I went and I was learning to welcome them. After all, the road was still calling, and somewhere beyond the next horizon, another story was already waiting for me.

Because in China and in life the detours are sometimes the best part of the trip.

 

Living Abroad Is…

Living Abroad Is…

Eleven years ago I packed a single suitcase, certain I was chasing one adventure. Somewhere between missed trains and ever-changing addresses with a revolving door of flatmates, the adventure became my life. Four continents later, the borders blur. Once unfamiliar spices drift through my memories. Friendships, some with fellow travelers who drifted in and out of my days, others with locals whose roots I briefly shared, have become the landmarks of each place. What follows isn’t a checklist of places but a scattering of moments, fragments of the many worlds that now live inside me.

Living abroad is…

…Realizing you have built a life across multiple worlds. When I left Warren, Ohio with a one-way ticket to Paris, I thought I was starting a chapter. I didn’t realize it would turn into an entire book, each place a different world, each world reshaping me. Paris gave me my first taste of life beyond the familiar; China challenged me to navigate rhythms, a language, and rituals utterly unlike my own; Bali offered a slower cadence and a kind of spiritual hospitality; Poland and Bulgaria grounded me in history and resilience; Tanzania gifted me a warmth and joy that pulsed through everyday life; and Morocco, where I now find myself, wraps me daily in color, dust, and deep tradition. Somewhere along the way, I stopped belonging to just one place. My life became a patchwork, not unlike the quilt I sent home from Bali, stitched from many worlds, each one alive within me.

…Discovering that “home” is no longer a single dot on the map but a constellation of places and people. For a long time, home was one address, one skyline, one set of familiar streets. But after years of crossing borders, I’ve come to see it differently. Home is no longer fixed. It’s a constellation scattered across the globe, each place a bright star in my night sky. Paris sparkles first, like the Eiffel Tower each evening, where I first dared to step into another life. China flares bold and unblinking, filled with lanterns, fireworks, language, and endless lessons in patience. Bali glows softer, a star of stillness and incense drifting on the air. Poland and Bulgaria shine with the steady light of history and community. Tanzania blazes warm with laughter, rhythm, and the kindness of strangers who became family. And Morocco, the newest star, burns vibrant with color, call to prayer, and the scent of mint tea rising with the dawn.

Each one is a second star to the right, leading me not toward Neverland, but toward many lands, each holding a piece of me. Together, they sketch the map of a life I never planned but now can’t imagine any other way.

…Speaking three languages in one sentence and forgetting which one holds the right word. Fluency is a tricky thing when you’ve lived across continents. I’ve learned just enough of each language to charm waiters, confuse taxi drivers, and occasionally get myself into trouble.

My best party trick? The ability to order coffee in at least seven different languages. Sometimes with such confidence that I don’t realize I’ve chosen the wrong one until the barista gives me that confused smile.

In Morocco, I never know what language the kids on the street will toss my way. It could be “salaam,” “hola,” “bonjour,” “hello,” even “ciao.” I answer back with whatever greeting leaps first into my head, never quite sure which language my tongue will choose.

But the real tangle comes after moving between countries. Months in Poland, then a quick trip to Paris, and suddenly the wires cross. I’ve replied to “bonjour” with a cheerful “dzień dobry,” or found myself blurting “dziękuję” instead of “merci” or “au revoir.” Once, without thinking, I even slipped out a “xièxiè” left over from my years in China. These moments always catch me mid-word, leaving me smiling at the puzzled look across from me.

Even small choices carry weight, like how to say the name of a country. Is it Tan-Zan-Ya, the way it sings on the lips of those who live there, or Tan-Za-Nia, as I first learned it back home? In that hesitation, I discover the beauty of a word that belongs to two worlds at once.

This shifting language of mine is far from fluent, far from perfect, but it is alive and I do try. It comes from encounters, from voices that have touched my journey, and from the places that continue to shape the way I speak the world. Along the way I’ve gathered favorite words and phrases, each like a keepsake tucked into my memory: lala salama in Tanzania, a gentle blessing of “go in peace”; chrząszcz in Poland, a tongue-twisting word for “beetle” that still makes me laugh at its impossible cluster of consonants; enchanté in France, where even an introduction feels like a little charm; suksama in Bali, a thank you that carries a sense of grace; and here in Morocco, the phrase I return to most – mashi moskil, “no problem.” Two simple words that hold the warmth and resilience of the culture, reminding me daily that the heart of a place often hides in its everyday language

…Carrying spices, tea, traditional clothing and stories in your suitcase instead of souvenirs. I don’t bring home the usual trinkets. Instead, I take with me the pieces of each place that have shaped me. My condo back in Ohio holds photos I’ve had made into canvas, reminders of the lives and landscapes that became part of mine. Prayer flags wait to be strung above the fireplace, whispering blessings into the air. From China, I carried delicate white tea for my sister-in-law, a taste of the life I spent there.

From Türkiye, a small cezve or ibrik, ready to brew thick coffee that tastes of conversations stretching into the night.

Morocco has given me flowing jallabas and caftans, Bali the temple clothes of a kebaya and kamben, Tibet a chupa that feels like a second skin when I slip it on.

And always, from Paris, I carry back beurre sel de mer, salted butter, impossibly French, impossibly simple, to wherever in the world I happen to be living next. These things are more than objects. They are echoes that taste, sound, and feel of the places I’ve lived and visited. And still, they are only the surface. What I truly bring with me are the stories. More stories than I could tell in a lifetime and the comfort of knowing they will never run out.

I write them into postcards, too, stamped, sent across oceans to friends and family. Each one a small reminder that I was here, I thought of you, and this moment now belongs to us both.

… Celebrating Holidays That Shift With Each Country. One of the surest ways I know I’ve built a life across borders is by the way my calendar keeps changing. In China, the year truly began with the thunder of firecrackers and the red glow of lanterns at Spring Festival, where streets pulsed with music and families gathered around banquets that stretched late into the night. In Morocco, the rhythm of the day bends to Ramadan and the slow afternoons, the waiting for sunset, and the joy of Iftar, breaking the fast together over dates and mint tea.

Ngaben – exhuming the body

In Poland, Christmas is marked not by Christmas morning but by Wigilia, the Christmas Eve feast. The table is laid with an empty place for an unexpected guest, the first star in the sky marks the beginning, and dishes like pierogi and carp bring centuries of tradition to life. France, by contrast, has given me long, elegant holiday dinners with champagne and oysters. In Bali, the cycle of life and death itself is honored through the Ngaben ceremony, a cremation ritual where families and entire communities gather to accompany the spirit on its journey. It is not a day of mourning but of celebration, color, and music. A reminder that in some places, even endings are infused with joy.

Each country has handed me its own rituals, and with them, its own meaning of celebration. I’ve learned that holidays are less about the date on the calendar and more about the people who opened their doors, the flavors passed across the table, and the stories that anchored us, even far from where we were born.

…collecting friends like postcards. Every country I’ve lived in or passed through has left me with a multitude of friends. Some were fleeting companions I know I will never see again, yet they’ve left indelible marks on my heart. Others remain in touch, and I know that if I landed in their country tomorrow, they would open their homes and their arms without hesitation. There are even friends I’ve never met in person, friends of friends, or voices found through social media, who still bring something meaningful to my journey.

So many I long to see again, though I know deep down that reunion may never come. That is the bittersweet rhythm of this life abroad. To love deeply, then to let go. With time, I have learned, almost mastered, the art of leaving. Not because I wanted to, but because I had no choice. Each farewell has taught me resilience, though the truth is the goodbyes never get easier; in fact, they weigh heavier with every year.

And yet, like postcards, they remain vivid in the albums of my memory: their laughter, their kindness, their presence, each one a snapshot of a moment that will always belong to us. Even as the years carry us in different directions, their colors don’t fade. They are the companions of my journey, the proof that no place was ever lived alone.

…Feeling like a local and a stranger at the same time. To live abroad is to carry two truths in the same breath. I slip into the rhythm of a place until it feels like second nature. Buying fruits and vegetables from the same stand each morning, knowing the café will bring me my nos nos (coffee) without my even needing to order, and walking streets that no longer need a map. In these moments, I feel like a local, moving as if I have always belonged..

But then something reminds me. I catch a glimpse of a photo or a reflection in a window and realize I am the only light-haired, blue-eyed person in sight. Or I notice I am the only woman without a hijab, the only person whose tattoos peek from beneath her sleeves. In those moments, I am again the stranger. Welcomed, yes, but never fully of the place.

It doesn’t matter whether I am in Paris, China, Bali, Bulgaria, Poland, or Morocco; the feeling follows me everywhere. I stand both inside and outside at once, rooted and unrooted, at home and away. Perhaps that is the beauty of this life: to see the world with both sets of eyes…the ones that belong, and the ones that will always be passing through.

…Measuring distance not in miles but in time zones and late-night calls. When you live across continents, distance stops being about geography. It becomes a matter of clocks. In Morocco, it’s just five hours between me and Ohio, an easy subtraction until I forget about the adjustment during Ramadan. When I was in Poland and a friend calls when I’m winding down with a glass of wine and they’re only just pouring their morning coffee. In China, the distance stretched further still, twelve hours apart, as if we lived on opposite sides of time. The awkward math of time zones becomes second nature, yet mistakes are inevitable: missed calls, sleepy “hellos,” messages arriving in the middle of the night.

But there’s a strange intimacy in it, too. I’ve learned that closeness can travel through glowing screens, voices stretched across oceans, laughter exchanged between dusk and dawn. Sometimes, those conversations feel sharper, more precious, precisely because they require effort and timing. Living abroad teaches you that connection isn’t measured in miles. It’s measured in how far voices are willing to reach.

…Understanding that leaving and returning are just different forms of belonging. My greatest fear has never been boarding a plane to somewhere new. It has always been the return. In eleven years, I’ve only gone back to Warren, Ohio four times, the longest stay just two and a half months. When I finally step back on American soil again, it will probably be more than seven years since I last walked those familiar streets, since February 3, 2020. No one talks about how hard it is to leave one home in order to go home. To leave friends in one place so you can see friends in another.

The question that follows me is: how do you slide back into a life that once was yours, when you’ve been stretched and changed by the journey? The people I return to have lived through their days without me, their routines, their joys and heartbreaks, their ups and downs. I have done the same, but in other languages, other landscapes. My mornings no longer look like theirs, my words carry the rhythm of places most have never been.

It will be impossible to feel as if I never left. And maybe that’s the point. Terry Pratchett wrote, “Coming back to where you started is not the same as never leaving.” I return not as the girl who left, but as the woman who carries Paris in her nights, Morocco in her mornings, Bali in her prayers, China in her patience, Poland and Bulgaria in her resilience, Tanzania in her warmth.

Leaving and returning are not opposites; they are different forms of belonging. Each departure has stretched me, each arrival has reshaped me, and together they have given me more than one home, more than one self. Perhaps the question isn’t where do I belong? but rather how extraordinary it is to have worked for, and earned, the chance to belong in so many places at once.

When I first set out with one suitcase, I never imagined it would carry me across four continents and more worlds than I can count. And though I don’t yet know where the road will lead me next, I am certain it will continue to change me. My only hope is that in return, I have left some small mark on all the places and all the people that have left their mark on me.

Where the Sand Whispers and the Silence Speaks…A Sahara Sojourn

Where the Sand Whispers and the Silence Speaks…A Sahara Sojourn

Where the Sand whispers and the silence speaks, the Sahara stretches into forever. In January, I set out from Ouarzazate with fellow Warrenite, Eric who had come to visit me in Morocco, on a two-day sojourn that first took us to Zagora and into a small shop where desert scarves were wound around our heads like ancient travelers. From there, the road carried us past the famed sign “52 days to Timbuktu” and the lone tree of life.

Because there were no roads leading to our destination for the night, travel required a 4×4 vehicle, a camel caravan and an organized excursion. We were fortunate to be traveling with Brahim and Mohammed. Brahim comes from a Nomadic family, a local Amazigh (Berber) family who run desert camps. I had spent the last 5 weeks living with his family in Tabounte assisting his children with their English, but also helping with his social media presence for his Sahara Tour business, Caravane, Cimes, et Dunes.

By late afternoon, the asphalt gave way to merely sand tracks that led toward Erg Chigaga. Erg Chigaga is not the desert you stumble into by accident; it must be sought out. Unlike its more visited sister, Erg Chebbi, Chigaga lies deep and hidden, often described as feeling closer to “the true Sahara”. It is sixty kilometers (thirty-seven miles) beyond the last village of M’Hamid, and only fifteen kilometers (nine miles) shy of the Algerian border. There are no paved roads here, only rocky plains, dry riverbeds, and shifting tracks that lead to the horizon. The dunes themselves rise and fall like a golden sea, stretching some forty kilometers (twenty-five miles) long and fifteen wide (nine), with crests that can tower nearly three hundred meters (984 feet).

But, before reaching the dunes at Erg Chigaga, we stopped at a desert camp for lunch. It was tended by a young Nomad, and for that hour it felt as though the whole desert belonged only to us. We were welcomed with the ritual of Moroccan tea. First wafers and peanuts, then the art of pouring. We were told the higher the tea streams from the pot, the greater the respect extended to the guest. I was encouraged to try it myself…the glass filled with froth and sweetness, the wind’s whisper hushed, time seemed to stop, the world stopped turning, and all was focused on that single stream of tea.

Lunch was in true Moroccan fashion. We had a bowl of salad greens with olives, onions, tomatoes, and carrots, followed by a tajine of tender meatballs (kefta) simmered with lentils, all scooped up with warm rounds of Moroccan bread (khobz), After a brief rest, it was time to move on, The sun was already heading westward, and we needed to reach our overnight camp before it slipped behind the dunes.

When we arrived at our desert camp where we would spend the night, Eric and I exited the jeep, slipped off our shoes, and wandered barefoot into that golden sea of dunes. Eric had been told that skin against the earth is the truest way to recharge the body, spirit, and soul. Here we were where the Sahara was at its most untamed. A place where remoteness almost felt sacred.

To stand on the highest ridge of Erg Chigaga is to feel both small and infinite, suspended between the earth and the sky, with nothing but time and silence stretching forever. The vastness seemed to draw close, it had a silence that felt alive until it was broken by the whistle of the wind. Grains of sand tinkled across the surface of the desert and nipped at the exposed skin of our hands and face.

As the shadows were starting to lengthen, we saw Brahim and Mohammed leading our camels to us, their silhouettes slowly taking shape against the amber light.

If you know anything about camels, you know they must kneel before you can mount. At Brahim’s command, our camels sank to the sand. The trick is to wait until they are fully seated before you even attempt to climb aboard. A stirrup helps you swing one leg over quickly before settling into the saddle. Trust me it is not as easy as it sounds.

Once you are seated, there is a handle to grip with both hands to stabilize yourself. Here’s is the critical part, you need to lean back as the camel rises. A camel pushes itself up with its back legs first, causing a sudden jolt forward, sending you lurching forward in a motion that feels like a desert roller coaster.

Well, my camel decided to rise before my second leg was even in the stirrup and I hadn’t leaned back. For a split second, I was certain I’d be catapulted over its head. At the last moment, as the camel straightened its back legs and rocked up on its front, I jolted backward, thankful for that firm grip on the handle and just enough balance to shift into a proper sitting position.

So, off we went, led by Brahim and Mohammed, the swaying gait of our camels carried us slowly into the heart of the desert. Mine, with a bit of personality, kept nipping at the butt of Eric’s. As we rode across a high ridge, we watched the sun starting to spill the last of its light across the sand. If I told you the silence was deafening, then the darkness was blinding, and so we turned back toward camp in the final minutes before the sun lowered itself into the sand for the night.

 

Our desert camp was simple but surprisingly comfortable. Several unheated tents, each with two double beds, were tucked into a circle around a fire pit. The beds were piled high with thick wool blankets, much needed once the desert night began to bite. The temperatures would dip below freezing. I think Eric even slept in his quilted coat. I had already grown accustomed to cold nights: Brahim’s home, where I had been staying, was also unheated. A shower tent stood nearby, along with western toilets, a dining tent and an open-air canopy with stools and a low table for sharing tea.

By now, six other travelers had joined us. A reminder of humanity in the vastness of the Sahara. Until then, it had felt as if the desert belonged entirely to us.

When the sun finally slipped behind the dunes, we gathered in the dining tent for a traditional meal of soup, bread, olives, and tajine. Afterward, we emerged to find the guides had lit a fire in the pit, and the sky above was beginning to sparkle. Far from any trace of light pollution, the heavens erupted with stars. The Milky Way unveiled itself in all its brilliance, and that January night treated us to an even rarer gift: Venus, Mars, Jupiter, Neptune, and Saturn, all visible at once.

As we circled the fire, the other guides joined Brahim and Mohammed with drums and traditional instruments, filling the night with the rhythm of desert music. When the last flames flickered and only glowing embers remained, the moon rose, nearly full. Its light washed away the stars but bathed the dunes in silver, transforming the desert into a dreamscape. Time stood still once more.

If the air hadn’t been so sharp with cold, I might have slept out there beneath the stars, feeling suspended in another dimension. Instead, I padded barefoot through the cold sand back to my tent, the Eagles’ Peaceful, Easy Feeling looping in my head.

Sometime in the dark, cold hours of night, nature called. As I stepped barefoot into the frigid sand, I was reminded of another night nearly ten years ago, at Mount Everest Base Camp, when I had stood beneath a sky that seemed too vast to belong to this world. That night, jagged peaks framed the heavens; here, it was the soft curves of dunes. Different landscapes, but the same overwhelming pull of infinity above me.

On my way back from the toilets, I paused at the fire pit where a few embers still glowed faintly, like fallen stars. I looked up and just as I had on Everest, I was overcome with emotion. Time dissolved, the silence grew loud, and I felt like the only person on the planet. For that suspended moment, both Everest and the Sahara folded together, as if they belonged to the same dimension, one I was fortunate enough to glimpse twice in my lifetime.

The next morning, I rose just as the sun began spilling over the dunes and the moon still lingering in the sky. For some inexplicable reason, the cold sand and my bare feet had formed a bond, and I trailed barefoot toward the dining tent to see what awaited us for breakfast. Inside, I found Eric, happy about the desert adventure but grumbling about being frozen, wrapped in every layer he had brought. I couldn’t help but laugh.

After a filling breakfast, we packed our things, loaded the 4×4, and found that the other travelers had departed. Once again, the Sahara belonged entirely to us.

We spent the morning driving across dunes, dried riverbeds, and other shifting terrain, stopping occasionally to drink in the scenery. Heavy rains the previous year had given the desert a temporary new face, one unseen for decades. Dried lakes and riverbeds held water again, the sands were dotted with green shoots, and flowers had burst into bloom from dormant seeds.

Navigating this ever-changing landscape was an adventure in itself. Only landmarks could guide our driver as the wind sculpted the dunes into new shapes. Eric quickly dubbed him “Evil Khalid,” much to my amusement.

Eventually, we stumbled upon an oasis, where a lone Nomad welcomed us with tea and offered his wares. I bought a small camel woven from wool. A keepsake I hope will always carry the memory of that extraordinary time in the Sahara.

About an hour after leaving the oasis, the first strip of asphalt appeared. A thin, dark line that signaled we were nearing the edge of the desert. Civilization was creeping back in. We stopped in a small village for lunch, savoring one last moment before the return to paved roads and busier towns. Along the way, the scenery was still breathtaking: rippling dunes softening into rocky plains, and at one point, a Nomad herder guiding his caravan of camels along the road, a timeless image of the Sahara’s rhythm.

Before reaching Ouarzazate, we visited an Amazigh village and made the inevitable tourist stop at a rug-weaving shop. Obligatory, perhaps, but not without charm. Back in Warren, Ohio, Eric works in the carpet and flooring business, so this stop actually piqued his interest. He listened intently as they spoke of their craft, the symbolism in the patterns, and the tradition of Berber carpets passed through generations.

By late afternoon, we rolled back into Ouarzazate, the desert journey behind us but still clinging in spirit. I still wore my tagelmust, the long, green cloth wrapped around my head to shield me from sun, sand, and wind. It is the traditional mark of Tuareg men, but for me it had become something else: a keepsake of my Sahara sojourn, a reminder of the stillness, the vastness, and the strange way time seemed to fold in upon itself out there.

The desert gave us more than shifting sands and star-filled skies. It gave us a story we will tell again and again. Eric will probably remember the cold nights, the camel with a mischievous streak, and the carpets at the weaving shop that reminded him of home. I will remember barefoot walks across the dunes, music by firelight, and the way the stars shone so bright and close I could almost touch them. Together, we carry the Sahara back with us, not just in keepsakes or photographs, but in the way we felt out there…suspended between earth and sky, small yet infinite, humbled yet alive.

By the time we returned, the Sahara had already become more than a memory. It was a place inside me. Out there, beneath a sky filled with stars, the desert became its own kind of magic, a world outside of maps and clocks. The Sahara was not only vast dunes and shifting light; it stilled me long enough to hear my own heartbeat in its silence. It was a place that stripped away time and left only wonder. And I realized, the little girl named Wendy, you know the one. The one who has never stopped seeking what lies beyond the horizon, had once again stumbled into Neverland. This time it was hidden in the sands of the Sahara, where the night sky itself felt like a map of dreams. Standing barefoot in the cold sand beneath a billion stars, I realized I had once again found my very own Neverland. The Sahara was a world apart, a dreamscape both real and impossible, and like Neverland, it will stay with me forever.

In the end, the Sahara became more than a journey. It became a reminder that wonder is still out there, waiting just beyond the horizon, for those of us who never stopped looking.

“To live would be an awfully big adventure.” – J.M. Barrie, Peter Pan

Where the Path Still Breathes – Standing in Paris’ Forgotten Zoo

Where the Path Still Breathes – Standing in Paris’ Forgotten Zoo

About an hour’s bus ride from central Paris, on the far edge of the city sits Chateau de Vincennes. What began in the 12th century as a royal hunting lodge became, over centuries, a fortress fit for Charles V, and later a prison that held notables like the Marquis de Sade and Mirabeau. The chateau sits against the Bois de Vincennes. A little-known forest at the city’s edge.

I had visited the chateau before but never wandered into the forest itself. Tucked in one corner lies the Jardin d’Agronomie Tropicale. First created in 1899 as a research garden with greenhouses for cultivating colonial crops, the garden’s primary function was to test whether tropical and non-native plants and crops like coffee, vanilla, cacao, and banana could be grown in France. It was later transformed, in 1907, into a grand Colonial Exhibition. Afterward, it served briefly as a military hospital during WWI, then as research grounds, before slipping into neglect. When the city of Paris acquired it in 2003, the garden was reopened to the public in 2006, its overgrown ruins and monuments left as quiet witnesses to France’s colonial past.

Among the faded gateways and pavilions lingers a darker chapter, one many visitors may not know. In 1907, the garden also held a human zoo. People from the colonies were brought here and displayed in fabricated “villages” turned into living exhibits for curious crowds.

In April, my friend Cathy joined me in Paris. That day, I didn’t tell her where we were going. I wanted her to feel the full weight of the discovery. We boarded a bus to Nogent-sur-Marne and stepped off in an almost forgotten corner of the city. When we arrived the park was nearly deserted. No children’s laughter, no footsteps crunching on gravel, only stillness in every direction.

I came here knowing what this place once was, and perhaps that is why the silence felt so heavy. It was here, not centuries ago but within living memory, that men, women, and children were displayed like curiosities. The thought is barbaric, almost unimaginable, and yet it had happened right here beneath our feet.

The first thing we encountered was an ornate Chinese gateway, its colors dulled by time but still commanding attention. We wandered deeper into the garden, where vines curled over cracked stone and paths led to abandoned buildings. We passed only two other visitors. The emptiness made it easier to imagine the buzz of past crowds, voices rising in fascination while those on display endured their stares. In that silence the ghosts of the place made their presence known.

As we wandered, I couldn’t help but think back to what once stood here in 1907. Different “villages” had been constructed, each meant to represent a piece of the French colonial empire in Africa, Asia, and Oceania, including Madagascar, Sudan, Congo, Tunisia, Morocco, Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam. The designers of the exhibition went to great lengths to recreate the life and culture of these places, or at least their version of it, right down to the architecture. The buildings, however, were only the stage. The “exhibit” was the people.

From May to October that year, over one million visitors passed through this garden. They came to watch men, women, and children, entire families, brought from the colonies, lured to Paris with promise of pay and opportunity, only to find themselves transformed into objects of spectacle. The line between human and specimen blurred until it all but disappeared. Behind wooden barriers, they became nameless faces, living displays to satisfy European curiosity.

What happened when the exhibition ended is a question without a clear answer. Few, if any, returned safely to their homelands. Many were likely swept into circus-like troupes that toured internationally, their lives reduced to performances for the rest of the world.

 

And Paris was not alone in this cruelty. Between 1870 and the 1930’s it’s estimated that more than 1.5 billion people visited similar exhibitions worldwide in cities such as Hamburg, London, Milan, Amsterdam, as well as New York and Chicago. Even as late as 1958, almost within my lifetime, the Universal Exposition in Brussels included a display of Congolese people behind fences. A so-called “village” of living humans. It was the last of its kind, finally closing when the exposition ended that October.

The Jardin d’Agronomie is hauntingly beautiful. We wandered through what remained of the villages. The pavilions sagging under the weight of time, their architecture now more a suggestion than structure. There is a manmade stream that winds toward a still and murky pond. The air is heavy with the silence of a place that once held noise, laughter, spectacle, and most likely sorrow.

 

Here and there, statues and war memorials from the 1931 Colonial Exhibition stood among the trees like guardians of memory. The garden itself was haunting, not just because of what remained, but what could no longer be seen. The people whose lives once filled this space. The war memorials told one story. The pavilions whispered another. Together they made a strange harmony of beauty and unease.

As we circled back to the ornate Chinese gateway, I found myself thinking about what it means to travel. Travel, I realized is not only about what delights the eye, but about where the heart hesitates and where history unsettles us. In the Jardin d’Agronomie Tropicale, beauty and cruelty lie side by side, and the ruins remind us that memory is fragile. It is our task not to look away.

Paris dazzles with its light, but here in this forgotten corner, I found its shadows. To walk these paths is to become a witness, to listen to what the silence is still trying to say. As James Baldwin once wrote, “Not everything that is faced can be changed, but nothing can be changed until it is faced.”

Some places you visit for beauty, others for truth. This garden holds both. And Paris may call itself the City of Light, but here, the shadows insist on being seen.

Invisible Ripples in Our Lives

Invisible Ripples in Our Lives

“I alone cannot change the world, but I can cast a stone across the water to create many ripples.” – Mother Teresa

 

Fatima Ezzahra

We never really know the ripples we leave behind in the lives of others. Sometimes we wonder if the small things we do make any difference at all. Then, out of the blue, a message arrives that reminds us, yes, they do. Sometimes it’s just a passing smile, sometimes it’s a conversation that lingers, and sometimes, it’s a connection that changes you both.

I’m a 63-year old woman from Ohio now living and volunteering in Kelaa, Morocco. Here, at the English School, I meet students from all walks of life. There are students from elementary to adults. All bright, curious, searching, each one with their own dreams and challenges. In February, I met her, Fatima Ezzahra, on an ordinary afternoon at the school in Kelaa. She was 18, a Muslim girl with wide eyes and words that tumbled out faster than I could catch them, I teased her about how much she talked, and she laughed with a kind of sparkle that made me laugh too. Something clicked right there, the in-between space of two strangers from very different worlds.

Later we sat down together to record a podcast. We expected to stumble, to edit, to need multiple takes. Instead, the conversation flowed as if we had rehearsed it all our lives. Back and forth, idea to idea, like a well-played tennis match, laughter woven in between. We finished in one take, surprised at how seamless it felt. Our paths crossed only occasionally after that, but each time carried the same easy rhythm, as though no time had passed.

Fatima ended up studying every language offered at the English School, French, Spanish, Italian, German, and English. Little did I know at the time that this was her passport to the world, an avenue that would help her secure the visa to join her family in Italy.

When new foreign volunteers arrived, she was eager to meet them, anxious to share the beauty and history of Morocco. She would proudly show them her traditions and even teach them a few phrases of Moroccan Darija. When she finally completed her certifications in all the languages, she wrote a heartfelt farewell to the school.

In that letter she said that every volunteer, every culture, every accent had opened a new window for her. As I neared the end of her words, my eyes grew moist. Then came the final paragraph, and the tears fell freely:

“A very special thank you to Wendy. You may not realize how deeply you impacted me, but your words were like planting a small seed in thirsty soil. Today, that seed has started to grow within my soul.”

It made me pause and reflect on how often we underestimate the ordinary. A shared cup of tea, helping with English or Darija, or laughing over mispronunciations. These moments seem small at the time, but they can be turning points, even transformations. What felt natural and every day to me became lasting and meaningful to her. And she, in turn, has impacted me just as deeply. That is the quiet miracle of connection. We teach, we learn, we inspire, often across generations, cultures, and faiths.

Fatima, you have no idea the impact you made on me. From the moment I met you, I knew we were kindred spirits. Your passion for life and all that it has to offer touched me deeply. There is a quote by Ralph Waldo Emerson, “To know even one life has breathed easier because you have lived. This is to have succeeded.” If I have planted a seed in you, or anyone else at the English School, then I will always believe that my time here in Kelaa has been successful.

Not long ago, the time came for her departure from Morocco. She was heading to Italy, stepping into a new life with both excitement and uncertainty. Four days before her departure, she came to see me. Our visit was lighthearted, short, and sweet. No long, drawn-out tearful goodbye, just the comfort of knowing the connection was already woven deeply between us. Before she left, she handed me a handwritten letter, the edges burned, rolled carefully and tied with a red ribbon. Along with it was a pen…simple, symbolic, and perfect for me as a writer. I believe it was her way of saying that our story together was not finished, that the ripples would continue long after the farewell.

Since her arrival in Italy, we’ve exchanged a few short messages. She told me of her ups and downs, of missing Morocco and the familiar streets of Kelaa. Yet, within each note, I could feel her gradually sliding into her new life, her roots from that seed reaching toward new soil.

Unbeknownst to her, these past couple of weeks, I haven’t been able to find the words to write, neither for my book nor my blog. The pages stayed blank. This was after I had already shared some of my earlier writings for my book with her.

Then yesterday, out of nowhere, she sent me a reel. It simply said: I would love to read your book. There’s just one problem. You have to write it. Later that very day, I saw a story she posted about our meeting and connection.

It hit me hard. I have always believed my purpose in this world was to see and to share this life through different eyes. I hoped in some small way I might make a difference, be the change I longed to see. And yet, here she was turning that mirror back on me.

Last night, after those small exchanges with Fatima, the words returned. They poured out too quickly for my pen to keep up.

A couple of things that stood out in her story:

“When I met her, I was standing on the edge of one world, and she on the other. Yet destiny carved a path between us. It was a small encounter in its form, yet immense in its meaning. A meeting that proved the universe is far greater than the geography that separates us, and that hearts need no maps to recognize their kindred.”

“She did not merely read my words-she read me. As though I were an open book resting in her hands. Few possess that rare gift: to see beyond words, to understand the silence, to decipher the tears that have not yet fallen. She was one of those rare souls.

“They say our differences are too many, enough to raise walls between us. Yet, I discovered that differences do not prevent souls from meeting. They may even become the bridge that draws us closer. Similarity might comfort us but difference teaches our hearts to expand. I will never forget her, for she was not just a passerby in my story, but a turning point, an indelible mark upon my journey.”

Her words were humbling. To her I had been a stone cast across her waters, a ripple she would carry into her new life. To me, she was the same. A reminder that the smallest connections can hold the deepest weight.

I saw in her my younger self. The dreamer, the romantic, the little bit of save the world. I feel as if my hopes and dreams will live on through Fatima and all who she touches long after I am gone.

Travel teaches you many things. How to navigate streets and public transportation, how to stumble through unfamiliar languages, how to show respect in different cultures, and that we all smile in the same language. But the greatest lessons I’ve found, come from the people who let you into their lives. We think we are only passing through, yet somehow we become part of each other’s stories.

I don’t know how far the ripples of our time together will travel…into Italy…into the years ahead of her life, but I do know this…they have already reached me and I am changed.

As I finish writing, I realize this story is not mine alone to tell. It belongs to both of us. I’ll close with the last words Fatima wrote in her story:

In her, I saw something of myself, something that made me believe that great encounters are never in vain, that the heart already knows its way home, and that nothing in this vast design is meaningless. Every moment, even the simplest, is but a chapter in a grander story we only understand when we look back and read it once again.”

The Art of Leaving – Part One – Tabounte to Kelaa

The Art of Leaving – Part One – Tabounte to Kelaa

By the time I landed in Poland, February 3, 2020, I had already lived through years of goodbyes – each one leaving its own ache. Cities blurred into each other, friendships formed fast and ended faster, and I had become practiced in the art of leaving. I thought I knew how to keep things temporary. How wrong I was. China was meant to be 6 months and turned into four years. Poland was meant to be just another stop – Eighteen months, maybe less. But something unexpected happened. I stayed almost five years. Life there unfolded gently. Life in Poland was easy: trams ran on time, quiet cafes where hours slipped by, twenty minutes to the airport and I could be anywhere in Europe in under three hours, and those Friday night deep conversations with people who knew me in a way only time allows. I had roots, rhythms and a sense of belonging I hadn’t planned to find. And then, suddenly it was mid-December 2024, I was in Marrakech, Morocco…a land of heat and dust, where nothing moved quietly. While Poland had been calm and predictable, Morocco pulsed with noise, color, and movement…exhilarating, disorienting, yet comfortably familiar. I had been here before, yet each moment felt newly alive, as if the country were reintroducing itself with every step.

My plan (keyword..plan..because we know about the best laid ones) was to spend around ninety days in Morocco before continuing my travels ahead of a commitment in Bulgaria at the end of June. After some rest and relaxation in Marrakech, I had arranged a WorkAway opportunity near Ouarzazate. I would be living with an Amazigh or Berber family, helping the father build a social media presence for his Sahara tour business and teaching English to his six children.

The Amazigh people are considered the original inhabitants of North Africa predating the arrival of Arabs. Many Berbers prefer to be called Amazigh. Traditionally, many Amazigh/Berber tribes were nomadic within the Sahara Desert. Now, some Amazigh populations have settled in rural areas and rely on agriculture and herding, others maintain a semi-nomadic or fully nomadic lifestyle. The term “Amazigh” means free people in their language. They speak a language called Tamazight, which is part of the Afro-Asiatic language family.

When I arrived at the bus station in Ouarzazate, I was greeted by two of the young girls from the family. With only my limited French and Google Translate to rely on, our communication was strained, but the look on their faces said more than words ever could. They saw me, small rolling suitcase, backpack, and an extra bag in tow, and I could immediately tell something was off. As it turned out, they had walked more than an hour from their home to meet me, and the idea of walking all the way back with my luggage clearly wasn’t going to work.

Sensing the tension, I smiled and said, “No problem, we can take a taxi.” That only seemed to make them more uneasy, until I realized their concern was the cost, which ended up being 50 dirham or about 5 euro. Once I assured them I’d cover the fare, their expressions softened, and we soon set off toward what would be my home for the next five weeks.

About twenty minutes by taxi from Ouarzazate, we arrived at the top of a dusty road in the small village of Tabounte. We unloaded my bags and began a short walk to what would be my new home. The first dirt road gave way to another, narrower one, until we finally stopped in front of a modest, two-story concrete building. One of the girls knocked, and a few seconds later, the door opened…and I stepped into another world.

The Amazigh people live in a way that’s both humble and deeply rooted in tradition. I was about to learn just how simple life here could be. Just inside, to the right, was a large room lined with carpets and low cushions.

Sitting quietly in the corner was an older woman, wrapped in what looked like several layers of clothing and thick blankets. I learned this was the mother of the patriarch Brahim. Though the sun still warmed the afternoon air outside, the house held a lingering cold. One that made her layers of clothing and blankets seem less like comfort and more like necessity.

To the left was a simple bathroom – just a sink and a squat toilet. Further in, to the right, was a large room with a refrigerator and a low table and a stack of plastic stools. To the left of this space was a small kitchen, equipped with a propane stovetop, a sink with only cold water, and shelves lined with spices, dishes and pots and pans. At the far end of the house were two bedrooms: one with a bed for the parents, the other a shared room for four girls, furnished with wicker mats, blankets, and a small wardrobe.

Next, they grabbed my bags and led me upstairs. To the right was a room similar to the one below where the woman had been. To the left was another bathroom, this one with a sink, a squat toilet, and a shower with hot water. Beyond the bathroom was a room with a counter and a propane-fueled oven, which I would soon learn was used daily to bake bread. That oven would become my morning refuge, offering warmth in the chill of the house. Each day, I would join Naima as she baked, sitting near the oven to soak in its comforting heat.

At the end of the floor were two more bedrooms, similar to those downstairs. The room to the left held two single beds for the boys, while the one to the right – with a single bed – would be mine. One more flight of stairs led to a rooftop terrace. Beneath the enclosed section was a washing machine. Outside was a plastic table, two chairs, a web of clotheslines, and a scattering of random toys. I would spend many late afternoons on this terrace soaking up the warmth of the setting sun.

When I arrived, Brahim, the head of the household, was away on a desert excursion. But the rest of the family, including his mother, wife and five of his six children, welcomed me with open arms. With my limited French and the help of Google translate, we managed to communicate. To me, figuring out creative ways to communicate is part of the fun and adventure. The family’s English was minimal, but that only added to the charm of the interactions. I also hoped it was a chance for me to improve my French. Fortunately, Brahim’s brother was visiting from Hawaii and joined us for a late couscous dinner around 22:00 (10 pm). His English made the evening go smoother and allowed for easier conversation. After a meal and a few laughs, I was worn out from the journey. I said goodnight to my lovely new family, already excited for the experience the next several weeks would bring.

After a solid night’s sleep, I woke around 09:00 to the smell of warm, freshly baked bread. Breakfast was simple and satisfying, bread with olive oil, jam, or honey for dipping and a plate of olives served with hot tea. After we ate, we said goodbye to Grandma, who was returning to her home in Zagora with her visiting son.

Once they departed, I watched Naima prepare chicken Tagine we’d have for lunch. She smiled and told me that tomorrow, I would help. As the tagine simmered low and slow, I took a hot shower, washed my hair and headed up to the rooftop terrace to let it dry in the warmth of the seventy-degree sun.

By mid-afternoon, the children returned from school, and we shared the fragrant tagine together. After the meal, I walked around the corner to a little neighborhood shop to pick up a few supplies, and most importantly coffee. I’m not much of a tea drinker. It didn’t take long to discover that in this part of the world, dinner is never a rushed affair, rarely appearing before nine or ten at night. Mornings follow a similar pace, most of the house doesn’t stir before 09:00, save Naima, already up with the dawn to knead and bake the day’s bread, her quiet rhythm is the heartbeat of the household.

The biggest surprise of the day came when Ismail, the oldest son showed up at the front door unannounced. He was on break from his university studies in Agadir and had decided to make the long journey home without telling anyone. Naima’s face lit up and the younger kids squealed and clung to him. There was an instant air of excitement, the kind that comes with an unexpected homecoming. It didn’t matter what plans we had for the rest of the evening, everything shifted to celebration.

By the time I woke the next morning and made myself a cup of coffee, Naima was already deep into breakfast preparation. A bowl of dough sat nearby, soft and rising. The kitchen was filled with the warm savory aroma of sautéed vegetables. Through a mix of French, hand gestures, and the ever reliable Google Translate, I learned that she was making her version of Berber-style pizza for breakfast. When I arrived in Kelaa, I discovered this was basically like the msemen we ate.

The filling was a fragrant blend of grated carrots and other vegetables, seasoned with herbs and spices and mixed with a small amount of sheep fat…something like lard, rich and flavorful. Naima worked the dough into softball-size rounds, flattening each slightly before adding a scoop of the veggie mixture to the center. Then, with practiced hands (I tried and mine were a disaster), she folded the edges up and sealed the filling inside, reshaping it into a tidy ball. Each one was flattened again and placed on a hot griddle to cook.

As each pizza came off the heat, she wrapped them in a towel-lined basket to keep warm. When the last one was done we all gathered around the table. Naima, her family minus Brahim, and me shared another simple breakfast. The flavor was earthy, the bread crisp on the outside and tender within. The joy of sharing a morning meal together made me feel as part of the family.

One of the unexpected joys of life abroad is discovering what breakfast looks like beyond the borders of home…dishes that would never make it to an American table, yet somehow feel just right as the day begins, like noodles in Asia.

It was a blustery day in Tabounte, just outside Ouarzazate. It was a cold, grey Saturday that seemed more suited to staying under a blanket than venturing out. There was a light drizzle and the wind whipped through the alleyways like it had something to prove. Though the temperature hovered around fifty degrees Fahrenheit, it felt much colder and I almost wished I had gloves.

After the younger kids went off to school for their Saturday classes, Naima, her eldest daughter Fatima, and I bundled up and made our way toward the weekly souk. A sprawling outdoor market held only on Saturday and just over a kilometer from their home. If we didn’t go now, we’d be out of fresh produce for the entire week.

The souk was a blur of color and movement. There were rows of vivid vegetables piled on tattered tarps, vendors shouting prices through chattering teeth and the smell of wet earth and spice filled the air.

We selected plump tomatoes, root vegetables still dusted with soil, a couple huge pomegranates, and a large bag of mandarins. For just 145 dirhams (14.50 euro) we gathered more than we could comfortably carry. Our arms ached and the bags bit our fingers. Before heading home, we stopped to pick up a kilo of mixed, briny, spicy olives because no Moroccan kitchen is ever truly complete without them.

Sunday morning began with a welcome surprise. Naima, taking a rare day off from making her own bread asked if I’d like to join her on a short walk through the village. We were off to buy the day’s bread…freshly baked not in a propane oven like we had back home, but in traditional, fire fueled clay ovens tended by women from the neighborhood.

The air was crisp, the streets were quiet and peaceful in the early morning. We arrived to find the women working with ease, their hands moving skillfully as they chatted. Laughter rose now and then, suggesting that a bit of village gossip might be sprinkled in the conversation. Their hands were dusted with flour as they pulled the round loaves from the glowing ovens. The intoxicating scent of wood smoke and freshly baked bread was irresistible.

They welcomed me with warm smiles and invited me to step closer for a better look. I was captivated. Soon, with a bundle of warm bread wrapped in cloth, we walked back home. Naima then scrambled some eggs and we filled the still warm bread with spoonfuls of the mixture. Another unforgettable breakfast and another quiet moment of Moroccan life I knew I’d carry with me.

And just like that, it was Christmas. Not my first where December 25th passes like any other day. I was tucked in the life of an Amazigh home in southern Morocco nestled beyond the High Atlas Mountains and known as the gateway to the desert. I was surrounded by warmth, laughter, and a family that had accepted me into their daily life like I had always been there.

Though they didn’t celebrate the holiday themselves, they hadn’t forgotten it was mine. That morning, Naima handed me a small glass jar of Moroccan saffron and wished me “Merry Christmas”. The bright threads were like strands of sunshine, more precious than gold here. My eyes teared up. It wasn’t just a gift. It was recognition. A gesture of love across cultures.

In return, I planned a Christmas turkey tagine. I’d found a huge turkey breast at the butcher shop a day or two earlier. With Naima’s help, because she knows all the secret herbs and spices, we turned it into something worthy of any holiday table,

I managed to get in a chat with my brother and sister-in-law that helped bridge the thousands of miles between us. That evening, as we scooped the last bits of turkey from the tagine, I looked around the table and smiled. No lights, no presents, no carols…just a beautiful Christmas. Simple. Joyful. Full of heart.

Life in Tabounte was beginning to take on its routine. Brahim eventually returned from the desert and with him came a new sense of purpose. Rather than lazy mornings next to the bread oven followed by breakfast and afternoons on the terrace, I found myself with a few small tasks to help with his tour business, Caravans, Peaks, and Dunes. Social media updates, a bit of writing and odd jobs that made me feel like a proper digital nomad.

Most mornings started the same. I’d join Naima near the warmth of the bread oven. Then after a simple breakfast, I’d head out to the local coffee shop, just an eight-minute walk from the house. It’s not exactly a place that draws tourists, but I was always greeted with smiles, a few curious looks, and even the occasional free refill.

I’d spend a few hours at the café working on my laptop. Sometime after mid-day, I’d get a message from Naima telling me the kids were home and lunch, usually tagine, would be ready soon. That was my signal to pack up and head home.

After lunch, our routine shifted to the rooftop terrace. The house, made of concrete holds the chill of the night air long after the sun has risen. Actually the house never really warmed up and the terrace became our space of sunlight and warmth. We’d sit on the terrace, sometimes sipping tea. While I helped the girls with their English homework, Naima tended to her endless loads of laundry. Hanging everything along clotheslines zig-zagging like a spider web. With a family of eight, the laundry never seemed to stop.

One day I decided to finally do my own laundry. Washed, I hung it on the web of lines and checked it before I went to bed. It was still damp and I left it to hang overnight. Of course, that night, an unexpected rainstorm swept through leaving my laundry dripping. All I could hope for was a breezy, warm, sunshiny day to follow. Lesson learned…don’t trust a desert sky to stay dry.

We closed out 2024 with another turkey tagine and a celebratory cake. The first morning of 2025 dawned sunny and clear so we decided to kick-off the year with a picnic several (I didn’t realize how “several” LOL) miles from home. The day was filled with laughter, games, and plenty of good food. Although we had hired a van to get us there, Naima announced we would be walking home. It was more than I bargained for, but somehow, I made it. Rewarded with a stunning sunset along the way made every step worthwhile…almost…I was exhausted by the time we reached home.

A few days into the new year, I had to leave my family in Tabounte and head to nearby Ouarzazate. A friend was coming to visit me in about two weeks, so I needed to find accommodations and get things organized. He’s a magician, and I also planned to look into possible venues where he could perform. Brahim, not being on an excursion, offered to meet me in the city and show me around. He even recommended a few local spots for me to eat.

I spent a few days getting things in order for Eric’s arrival. Brahim did his best to help me arrange performances at local schools and clubs for his magic act, but it turned out to be more complicated than either of us expected, and ultimately, I couldn’t make it happen. So, I let go of that plan and shifted my focus to something simpler…introducing him to the magic of Morocco, one day at a time.

After a long weekend in Ouarzazate, I returned to my family and the familiar rhythm of life in Tabounte. Days passed quietly, each one mirroring the last in its simplicity. Before I knew it, the time had come for Eric’s arrival. I had rented a modest two-bedroom apartment in Ouarzazate to serve as our home base. His journey would take him beyond the tranquility of southern Morocco. He would also be spending time on his own exploring the chaotic charm of Marrakech and the buzzing metropolis of Casablanca. The contrast between those cities and the calm of Ouarzazate and Tabounte would be striking. We also planned a desert adventure, but that’s a story for another post.

Sneak peak at our desert excursion

I used to think I had mastered the art of leaving. I was skilled in absquatulating or the Irish goodbye. Eleven years of travel had trained me to move lightly, to slip in and out of places without unraveling. But Morocco, somehow, had undone all of that.

My five weeks in Tabounte were meant to be just that…five weeks. A temporary glimpse into Amazigh life, a cultural exchange, a new story to add to my journey. Somehow, between the shared meals, quiet mornings at the café, and the daily rhythm of family life, it carved out a place in me. I arrived as a guest and left as something closer to family. Leaving felt heavier than I expected.

From Tabounte, I traveled to Kelaa. I told myself I would stay through Ramadan, meet my friends, Dawn and Margaret in Marrakech the first week of April, then fly to Paris where I would meet up with my friend Cathy. I would spend 2 weeks in Paris and then continue my journey to yet undecided destinations.

I returned to Kelaa after Paris, expecting to stay for a little while. That while has quietly stretched into more than six months. And now, I should be on the edge of yet another departure, but, back injury aside, the truth is, the longer I stay, the more Morocco wraps itself around me. Friends and family back home say they can sense it too. How this place has left a deeper imprint, as if Morocco is writing a different version of me.

Maybe the art of leaving isn’t about becoming good at goodbyes or slipping away gracefully. Maybe it’s about allowing yourself to be changed and learning how to hold on, even as you go.

And when the time comes to leave Kelaa, that will be Part Two.